Master Of Pain
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Posts posted by Master Of Pain
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What I'm about to tell you will make you sick to your stomach if you're stuck on TiForce:
The last five known available new TiForce systems for the bird were sold by Dennis Kirk for $298 each in May.
No, that's not a typo. Two hundred ninety-eight US dollars.
I missed the last one by an hour.
You might get in touch with TiForce directly and beg and plead for someone to look in their warehouse for one that might have been overlooked.
Man, that makes me sick. :icon_silenced:
I guess the second runner up is the Akrapovic... Please tell me those aren't out of production :icon_pray:
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Greetings, all!
It's been a long time since I've posted, however I'm in the process of getting ready for the fall riding season. One of the things I've been meaning to get around to was purchasing a full TiForce system for the 'Bird.
Problem is, it seems that time has finally caught up with the bike, and the vendors out there aren't stocking the kit anymore. Orient Express is listed on TiForce's page as a primary vendor however they don't even bother listing the kit anymore. Does anybody know a vendor who would still be selling the kit? Thanks!
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There are 2 holes. One the needle goes through in the center and one offset for vacuum. Don't mess with the center hole the needle goes through.
See if the vac hole is at 7/64ths of an inch. That's where it should be drilled for a Dynojet kit. I took mine one step more to 1/8th in. It does improve that "whack it open" throttle response.
If yours isn't at 7/64ths in. start there and try it. Keep in mind that if you go too big 4 slides are about $130
I've been thinking about ignition advancing, did you notice an improvement?
Oh, what I ment by two holes is just that, two holes drilled into the bottom of the slide(s) besides the needle hole. Both appear to be the same size, I would say about 1 mm. I'll try to get off my procrastinating Sunday ass and pull my shit off to take a pic, I need to try a new spacer that I made anyway that is like a 1/4 needle position spacer. Such a pain in the ass, but becoming more routine
The 4* advancer changes the torque curve from 3K-7K. There is more net torque avalible, even despite my jetting issues in the midrange I can feel the difference. If you want to believe Dynojet's dyno, it indicated a 5# torque avg. improvement in that range by itself. As long as you use quality 87 octane fuel and your jetting is somewhat decent, no detonation issues noted, even with the 10% ethanol gas. I would like to try the adjustable discs for 5-6* with 89 octane to see if there is an improvement - but I'm little worried about the fact that this is a static advance rather than a calculated timing recurve.
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I'm trying to debug a few carb issues on my '97. Prior owner installed a factory jet kit. There were 145's mains set on the outside and 148's set on the inside, Factory Pro kit needle in position #3, and the pilots are still 42's, but the screws were set god knows where. After a dyno determined that I was running lean from 6K onward, I started to experiment with different mains and shimmed needle positions.
I've determined that with my current bike configuration: Full Yoshi RS3, K&N filter and 4* advancer, my MJ's seem to be about spot-on with #148's on all 4. The fuel screws were set to 2 3/4 turns out, but it seems that the needle position is overly sensitive. There is a very fine line between too rich and too lean here, and I've experimented with a bit of shimming around position 3 with brass washers. 5-6K at around pos. 3 is lean but shim it higher and the "wet bog" comes on with a twist of the throttle. I'm beginning to wonder if the rising rate on the slide is becoming a factor, because smooth roll ons seem to work out a lot better than WOT starting from 4K in about every gear. All the lag starts around 5-5.5K and begins to clear around 7K.
Now that you know where I'm at, I have a couple of questions.
1. Are there 2 holes in a stock slide? Mine has two as of now, and I can't find any pictures in my manual to compare against.
2. Were I to need to drill the slide, what hole size would be ideal?
3. Any tips on curing my lean spot between 5K -6.5K?
Question #1 is very near and dear to me, because it seems that no one can answer that for some strange reason.
Thanks :icon_wall:
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Can someone reccomend a stateside shop for a complete head job?
What I mean by complete is: Porting, polishing, valve job, cam grind. I have a 97' and I would like to get this done. What RWHP/TQ gains are expected?
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Not liking this at all. IMO there are other bikes that look better nekkid.
To each there own................................. :roll:
Yep. Way to go there bubba, you might as well paint it pink.
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Thanks for all the comments. I went with WBR's wares. I purchased the 530 ERV, an AFAM front and rear steel sprocket. Now all I need is the HP to justify the 530 chain in the first place. HONDA.
Which rear sprocket did you go with from WBR?
AFAM steel rear. If you can't find it on his site (it's pretty messy out there) give him a call and he'll get it ordered for you.
I'm not a bling guy, but I really dig the look of a gold chain on black. Don't take that the wrong way!
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Thanks for everyone's suggestions in this thread. The 530 ERV is extremely light - compared to the stock chain, I dare say about 40% less weight. My friend's 520 heavy-duty chain @110 links felt very close to this 530@110 links. The AFAM steel rear sprocket was also surprisingly light compared to the stocker. The front was lighter, however I believe that was due to the lack of the cush drive attachment. At this juncture, my opinion is that the weight difference between a 520 conversion and this particular selection of driveline components is negligible. Besides, the tensile strength ratings are higher. Yay, less unsprung weight and moving mass! :icon_clap:
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Man, the range I've seen is from $89-$99
Fuck that shit! Where can I get a simple tool for this task? -
I purchased the bike used in Apr 05. It already had the K&N, full Yoshi and a Factory sticker on the airbox. It is quite possible that the installer scammed the previous owner to an extent. When I opened the carbs a few weeks ago to clean them, I saw the hex bolts on the bowls and Ti multi-position needles, so I assumed the Factory Ti Jet kit was installed. I also saw 2 holes on the slides, but I have no clue as to whether they are drilled out or not. Perhaps someone could comment on the slides?
So, what's the optimal AFR curve for a carbed bike? I researched this topic and all I found was the FI suggestion - start at 13.2 and end up at 12.8.
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I had a dyno performed recently on my 97 at Honda of Houston. I trust their calibrations - they are the most reputable dealer and service department in this city, and anything I've brought to them in the past is pretty well dead-on for the most part.
The full size is here: HTTP://COLLINSNETWORKS.DYNDNS.ORG/COLLINSN...yno_4_15_06.jpg
Look at that AFR! How shitty is that? I have a K&N / Factory Jet / Full Yoshi combo on the bike that I didn't install. Any suggestions on main jet sizes/pilot/needle placement would be helpful. This bike is way down on power!
Four pulls, everything basically the same. How's that for consistency?
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On this subject, as most of the members know, I recently retired my carb'd '97 bird and replaced it with a '01 bird. I've noticed that fan comming on all the time, temp readings at well over 200 degree's when driving in traffic or city, about 180'ish on hwy. Why do these birds run so hot with FI??? Same engine..., strange :icon_duh:
PS. It has been well maintained and has 50/50 with water wetter in it.
Because FI is GAY and GAY is HOT
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Since I added the PCIII to the Bird she has been running much hotter. I buddy of mine with a new VFR said that he used Water Wetter and his temps greatly improved.
I added the prescribed amount last night and rode to work this morning. I would guess the temperature outside is close to 70 and I have about a 4 mile ride to work, the temp still hit 209. I'm wondering if it needs more time to circulated through the system?
Anyone else use this stuff?
Furious
For Watter Wetter to be most effective in heat exchanging, you need to have the lowest ratio of Glycol coolant mixed with your distilled(!) water. This is based depending on where you live and what your climate norms are, for instance in Houston, we may see 10-12 days in a year where temps go below freezing, and 1-2 days where freezing temps stay below 32F for more than 6 hours. A marginal 8-10% glycol ratio is perfect for this environment. Idealy, you could run 100% distilled with glycol, however I worry about the lowered boilover temps in hotter climates, hence the 8-10% suggestion, which I have found to be a sucessful constant in all my vehicles, including my high-horsepower heat monger of a Lightning.
I had a 2001 R1, which would get up to 245 idling at a light in 95+ degree tempratures. After water wetter +H20+ 10% glycol, it would never exceed 218F even in 100 degree temps, and would cool to thermostat tip-over temps (179F) quickly once moving. Water Wetter works, you just need the correct ratio of coolant to get the most out of it. Glycol coolant is a poor heat exchanger compared to H20 - it's purpose is to raise boiling point and lower freezing point, and to neutralize pH and metal leaching.
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I wouldn't bother. I doubt you will see enough increase in flow rate to require anything as drastic as a notch of needle position. Maybe, and that is just maybe, a 1/4 turn on the air bleeds. If it's running OK now, I'd leave it alone.
I'm factually challenged when it comes to carbed birds but I thought the OEM needles only had one notch. Kitted units come with extras.
The reason I asked is that since I changed over, it's not pulling as hard past 8K (feels surgy) and there is a little dip that can be felt at part throttle when running at speed in 4-5 gear.
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I have a 97, intact airbox, FactoryPro Ti jet kit, full Yoshi RS-3 system and I am going from a K&N back to the stock filter. My current needle positon is clipped second from the bottom. Should I move it up a notch?
:icon_pray:
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This will look good under my Harley sticker:
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And IIRC it goes back on with only 40 ft. lbs.
I smacked it with my penis torque wrench and it fell right off.
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I can here my valves tapping ever so lightly. I have an 03 that has never been tune up, oil was change at dealer last spring. Bike only has 6000 miles and I only put 1000 mile on last year. Should I be concern?
The valvetrains on these high revving motors need to be a little loose, and you will hear some light ticking. A pronounced tap, however may indicate something more awry and needs further investigation before you blow your shit up and HD riders laugh at you on the side of the road.
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One does not put truck oil in a motorcycle.
One does pony up for the correct goddamn oil and stop being a cheap ass, lest ye trip over the pennies you saved and fall face first into a pile of shit.
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Round black ones
Or get some cool colored ones from Tomahawk
Str8 up stuntaz yo
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I believe the CBR600 stuff fits the splined shaft, as well as the cush drive. All that's left to buy is the right length of chain.
I've never seen a 520 kit for an XX. Most folks assemble kits when they see a demand, which I can't much imagine.
The 530 ERV is a lighter weight chain with less rotating friction that you might want to look into instead. I got about 14,000 miles out of mine, and it comes in gold.
Thanks for all the comments. I went with WBR's wares. I purchased the 530 ERV, an AFAM front and rear steel sprocket. Now all I need is the HP to justify the 530 chain in the first place. HONDA.
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I would like to know who has a 520 chain conversion front and rear for this bike as well. Please don't preach about the evils and sin of 520, if you know who still has the goods then please divulge all. I want the set for weekend fun. The quality 530 set will stay on 90% of the time. So, who sells them?
So let me get this straight every time you want to go to the lighter 520 chain you're going to grind off the connecting link swap everything out. then when you go back to the 530 press on a new link
Not preaching I just don't understand why
Because I like pie better than cake. :icon_duh:
When the conversation goes to 520, it seems that there is no help, just parenting.
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White Buffalo's site is pure 90's html ass. I can't find shit on there relating to sprockets for the XX. That being said, I'm looking for a set of light, hard quality sprockets and a light gold chain for the XX. Either my search skills are dulling, or there really isn't a selection out there. I called SprocketSpecalists and they've discontinued the Stealth series, and have no options at present for us (according to the clerk) so screw them.
I'm getting flustrated. Sorry for the rant. :icon_wall:
I would like to know who has a 520 chain conversion front and rear for this bike as well. Please don't preach about the evils and sin of 520, if you know who still has the goods then please divulge all. I want the set for weekend fun. The quality 530 set will stay on 90% of the time. So, who sells them?
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I've seen a few pictures of a XX with a real meaty looking leather cover over the whole tank - does anybody know the vendor of this thing?
Need some help locating a TiForce system vendor for the XX
in The Garage
Posted
Thanks everybody, I picked up a full Akrapovic system, PCIII USB, K&N filter. With any luck, I hope to have 145 at the wheel in cool weather