beondwacko

Here's my time slip from this past Wednesday night. THe other bike was a STOCK ZX-10 that was lowered and streched 6".

This thread has my undivided attention! Thanks for the dyno explanation too Rode.

I'd like to know why it is that the various dyno companys don't conform to a unified standard. Hence 1hp = 746 watts of power etc. AN Eddy dyno reads differently than a dynojet unit. I understand the differences with temp' , humidity, altitude, as well will result in different numbers, but just as a for instance, with the Eddy dyno my bike was run on , there is software that tells the dyno operator what to do and for how long. The program tells the operator to start at 2K rpm and then run full throttle to 3K rpm. Then 2K rpm to 4K, then 2K to 5K, then 2K to 6K and it keeps on going untill the max RPM test speed has been met. All testing was done with the bike in 5th gear. The operator is prompted to let the bike cool down to about 190 degrees between runs. Now the only thing that I can think of that was lacking was that there was not enough air being forced into the airbox to simulate the ram air effect at high speeds. I realize that the CDI unit is programmed to read the MAP sensor for pressure and change the fuel curve accordingly at high speed, but then again , it's supposedly ( stock ) tuned for the bike by Honda themselves for optimal performance / economy. Why then was my bike running majorly rich at sea level with the stock pipes on it? I had only gained about 3 HP with the PCIII, but broadened my HP /TQ curve bigtime. It also extended my useable RPM by almost 2K rpm. Funny, but even with the extened RPM's ( because I had a serious drop off at 9.5K rpm before ) I was expecting 2+ mph at the drag strip,,,,,,,,, that I never really saw. I need to stop playing around with the stock head pipe and go with a full system.

I think John in still in England at the Euro Blackbird bash. I'm not exactly sure when he's getting back.

As per your request Eric , I have a dyno chart of my bike stock w/D&D's and no PCIII. I can't find my other chart but I can tell you this, It's significantly different. I now with the PCIII do not have the severe drop off in power after 9K rpm. If I can find the newer chart , I'll post it for you. BTW, On my last dyno run with TBR Ti slip on's , K&N, and a PCIII with custom map made 142 HP and 83FT/LBS on my bike.

Hi Ed ! Well the mileage I don't think should be an issue overall RE the valvesprings. It's now got 19K on the clock and ( I know I didn't like measure seat pressure or anything such as that though ) but I can't see the stock springs getting tired yet. The engine is operated in it's normal RPM envelope, and not for extended periods of time at high ( over 6K rpm ) speeds. I understand the fatigue issue. I thougt the ignition was driven off the crank on the XX not the cam's.? Where my curiosity is at is that there are variences(sp?) from the factory and I have heard of instances where the timing can be off as much as 4 degrees +/- from factory specs. I was especially curious about who's seen what on the XX's and if they changed or degreed the cams what the results were before I decide to open my engine up.

If the claims are worth a gain of 10 HP alone , I'd be in for a set. Hell , I'd advertise and market them myself in S.E. Florida.

For those who have dove into the XX's engine headlong and degree'd the cams, what were your findings from the factory spec's? How far off were your #'s, where did you decide to set them to if you installed adjustable sprockets, and what gains were recieved from your work? The reason I'm asking is because I'm thinking about going the adjustable sprocket route for a little more top end power (retarding the timing). But , if it is the norm for the factory specs to be out of whack, then I may just set the timing to factory specs. Chime in please. I'm curious to hear the results of what had been discovered.

I have gone in the other direction from the "long haulers" on the board here. I went down one tooth to a 16T front sprocket and stock 45T on the rear. Because of my weight ( 210 lbs or about 225-230 with full leathers and helmet ) I prefer the 16T for my riding style. I had been running last year a 17/47T combo, but there had been a few other changes besides the gearing made since then so it's difficult to pinpoint what gains were made or had with the gearing change. I'm actually curious about going back to a 17T primary though. I am going through the traps at the far end of the track at just about redline in 4th gear. If I end up spraying the bike as I plan to, I will certainly have to go back to the 17T or I'll run out of RPM's before the end of the 1/4 mile.

In this day in age you would think that I'd own a video camera, but I actually don't. I never needed one. Anyway, I wouldn't be able to mount one to the tank because I' leaning over the tank when racing and having someone video me from the tree wouldn't show very much either. I need someone at the track who has skill and experience with a video camera. I would love to have two people taping with video cameras that use SMTE timecode. One person would be 50-75 feet down track from the starting line and the other person at the 1/8 mle mark. Then a nice little editing job that would tie the two vid's together on a split screen format linked together via the time code so everything is in sync. That would be cool but a little unrealistic I guess.

If I can remember to do it before next wednesday ( or if I can even get a chance for that matter ) I'll try the same thing before I go the the track again. So basically you're saying that the drain holes are draining air pressure from the ram air effect?

Adam, I still have your original map as you sent to me. I'll zip it and post if for you here. adam_blackbird_custom_map.zip Ron, It was my pleasure to help you. Nice talking to you today. I hope we can hook up when you are out here on the left coast this summer. Edit to add: While I was on the phone with Ron today, he fired up his 'bird; I have to say, it sounded really, really sweet with the Erion slipons. I might need to look for a pair of those. Hsa anyone tried my map on thire bike?, Ron I'm about a week away from giving it a shot myself. I need to experiment a little and not just sit and wait for the best weather for racing.

I will be watching for the results closely. :icon_silenced:

A respectfull dyno operator will let the bike cool down to a minimum of 195f before making any pulls. It's common sense. At least that's what my guy ended up doing. Fans not kicking in is a problem though. When my bike was up there , there were 3 blowers forcing air through the radiator and still the bike took some time to cool down at a high idle. Although after reading this, it did pop a question into my head. I don't think the guy who made the map for my bike added any fuel at WOT to compensate for the ram air. It looks like I'll need to bring a laptop to the drag strip the next time I go out there. I'm dying to go faster than 133.5 mph. The only other way would be for me to loose 30+ lbs.

I went to my local drag strip again last night. It was a good time with maybe 45 min' between runs, and my last 2 were back to back. No record setting times or speeds, just my "avarage" for the bike being at stock height with the front end strapped down. My MPH was good on most of the runs ( 132-133 mph ). I'd love to see what 20 additional HP and even a 5 ft/lb gain of torque would yield.

+1

So, This system scavenges like the header collector from heaven? This allows for the great jump in VE? And it does it this throughout the RPM range, not just a small window at a given engine speed? Between heat management, sonic reflection engineering, and muffler volume these gains can be achieved? With out specific header design, I find that difficult to embrace myself. But then again, I'm no engineer, just an old time hot rodder.

Your regulator is on it's way out I'd have to say. With the engine running at highway rpm, there is more of an electrical load then at idle( injectors, coil packs ). See is you can repeate the symptom while standing still, and have another volt meter on hand when you do it to verify. Let us know what you find & good luck.

And here's mine as a show of good faith. Except it won't allow me to upload it.

Run that bike at the track with a decent rider. Fuck the dyno and it's repeatability. Show me trap speeds. If you gain 4-5 mph in the 1/4 mile , then maybe I'd turn an ear to that product.

Well , If you get into an experimenting mood and want to try something else for FREE,,,, you are welcome to try my map if you wish. It was made for my 01' with stock head pipes, TBR TI slip on's, and K&N air filter. Just PM me if you are interested.

Shim the mounting screws with a couple of washers. If that doesn't work, I'll try it on my bile with it's flas as hell profiled pilot road !!

WELL! :icon_snooty: Well what ? Is that map too GOOD for us or something ???Are we not worthy? Don't you know that it's almost required to share with the class? Mine Mine Mine Mine Mine Mine Mine Mine

Boynton Beach is only about 30 min' from me and John01XX. Let up know with a PM if you need us to look it over.

+1 You paid for the tune, therefore the map that was made for your bike is yours. I have offered a map made for me and shared it with a few other members. I also wouldn't concern yourself with the raw numbers too much. Dyno's have variations from one unit to the other. The most important thing is that the bike feels good to you and you retained your driveability. My bike posted 142hp and 85 ft lbs. Do I know if it's for real,,,,,, I have no clue. What I do know for a fact is that I used to have a severe drop off of HP at 9.5K RPM because of a lean spot. Now, since the map was made, the bike plateau's (sp?) all the way to 11K. In a real world situation though, ( the drag strip ) I though that I'd gain a mph or two at the top end, but I didn't. Same 133.whatever mph that I was getting before.