beondwacko

I have done too much friggin' work to John's bike !! The Laser Jammer, the horn, the rear shock, something with the radar and the audio system, and I forget what the hell else I've done. Oh, the kill switch lanyard too. It took an old thread for my memory to jog with that subject.

I would have bought that bike if it had been closer to me. No hesitation.

Hi Kids, I'm not looking into buying some new fork springs for the big red couch and I have a couple of quick questions. First question is in regards to the spring rate. What is a "proper" rate for a rider who weighs approx 220 lbs with gear? My riding style is mostly easy to moderate in the turns. My second question is on the fork oil weight that would compliment the new springs. I just had a great ride this past weekend (2 up ) and it's time to improve the handling for more great rides 2 up in the near future. Thanks in advance for the advise and replies.

That'll do the job !!

Rest easy, I had the same thing happen to me when I first got the XX. I had come from an 83' CB1100F and the angles took some getting used to, but it did go away after I had put about 1K miles on the bike. Yours should too. The wrist thing may have to do with your seating position.

I can offer my 01' with 20,7?? miles for 4900 with farkles. HID's, New brakes, 4K miles on chain & sprockets, corbin GF&L, Two Bro's slip on's, PCIII mapped, led rear turn's, clear alt' tail light, 2 extra windscreens, red anodized levers and bar ends, polished rear sets, K&N air filter, and a few other things. It's not perfect but not too bad. Why are you limiting you choices to just an 01? Color ?

I was wishfull that there'd be a turbo set up in that pile of stuff. I'm getting tired at not being able to break into the 10.20's or better at the track.

Run poly line for the water too. It won't burst if it freezes. True for what was mentioned that the water line ( or at least a residential main line ) is supposed to be 3 feet deep. If you are going to be using a trencher, go for 3 feet of depth, drop the water line in , backfill 12-16 inches then drop in the conduit for the electrical. Was it ever mentioned if the shop was going to have a finished interior?

Sorry, I lost track (forgot) about this thread. Yeah,,,,,,,, copper is very high $$$ now and days. That price doesn't seem too out of line though. If you have any relationship with the electrician, you can save some money by doing a majority of the interior work yourself and have him do the "finish"(wire the outlets, panels, etc). If i had the choice, I'd go with PVC over EMT. It's easier to work with, and won't ever rust. I assume that the shop is not going to have a finished interior. If it was, then wire it with romex. The other person wired his shop with 3 way lighing,,,,, good idea with multiple exits! As for the grounding, you can ground the shop either from the house, or at the shop or even both locations. Ask the electrician what local code is.

I'll be doing some work on the house this morning,,,, so, I'll be here.

F-You !! Don't forget the license plate cover (smoked please, not stirred) and the sunpass pouch!

Ummmmm, no. That is on the 30A recepticles arguement. You show me a device that draws more than 20A at 110V that is portable. You won't find one. Here's the deal. 24 X 30 workshop. These are just suggestions based on experience. 1. Supply. If you can spare the current from the house, run a 50-60 amp supply to a 8-12 space sub-panel. If the run is short (45 feet or less overall) you can run 3 6ga(hot legs and neutral), & 1 8ga (ground). If the distance is longer than 50 feet , I'd go with 3 4ga & 1 8ga. Be sure to double check your local Reg's for hte official rules of the township/county. Local code always superceeds National Electrical Code. 2. Circuits. 1 for overhead lighting(15a), 3 for wall outlets (20A), and provisions for a 30A 220V recipticle, 1 15a circuit for exterior lighting /outlets. 3. Lighing. Figure 5 watts of lighitng per sq/ft & use the electronic T-8 fixtures. They will go instant on with out flicker even in low temps. Just my $0.02

ANd why in the hell have you not tried to pitch anything to me John? Is my cash not good enough for you? I will need 1 of the larger bolts or none of them if I go with shrooms.

I've never ridden a 97 or 98 model, but I'm told the clutch engagement is much smoother at higher RPM's because of the judder spring. If I try to launch my 99 at anything higher than 4k, she bucks like a bronco. If you like to launch hard, don't take it out. I had the same situation with the shuddering on my old 83' CB1100F. It was a glazing issue with the steels/clutches. Even if you replaced your peices with OEM stuff, you would solve your issue. BTW, with all stock internals in my 01' , I have launched as high as 7500 rpm with no shudder at all.

I had a set of D&D's a couple of years ago and the only good thing I can say about them is that they sound MEAN at idle. Otherwise, they just plain scream at all RPM's. You should have heard my bike while it was up on the dyno. Holy Sheet! I ended up going with a set of Two Brothers Ti C5 slip on's. I love the sound of those but I don't like the construction design.

Don't forget to check the headset bearings while your in that area. You may also want to repaint or powdercoat the lower tubes. Enjoy the results with the forks! I'm a little jealous. Keep this thread going or revive it when it's back together to give us your impression.

Also,,, check for vacumm leaks if you have recently done any service to it.

Just a quick idea,,,,,, make sure that the cooling system has been burped(purged of air) as well. If you should happen to notice fairly quick temp' changes in either direction durring normal riding, there may be some air in there somewhere.

And the D&D's add to that! 1.5+ miles away the'll hear you. Ouch!

:icon_goodsign: :icon_banghead:

Yo Yo YO !!!!!!!!! Itz Da MOB DuDe !!!!!

Better you than me! I have having trouble this morning walking in 36 degree weather!

I can't say for sure myself. I went to the website and looked under product search, but the page wasn't reacting.

Alrighty kids..... Before I post this stuff up on E-Bay, I wanted to let you folks pick at it if you wish. Here's the list. Goodridge Rear braided stainless brake line ( to replace the factory rubber one ) NEW, never installed. May fit other GM vehicles. $20+ shipping. Hypertech Programmer model # 30001. Works with 4.3,5.7,&7.4L engines in year 2000' GM trucks. It may cross over to other applications as well. It offers the ability to do the following- Raise top speed limiter, raise shift points, change shift firmness, recalibrate speedometer for axle ratio change or tire height change, and of course the "power programming" for the engine. Works just fine. $150 obo + shipping Brand new / never installed IAC valve for 2000' 4.3L $25+ shipping (these things go for $100 more retail) Stock amber front turn signal lenses. Fit 98'-04' S-10's and blazers. Good condition. $30+shipping Mculloch HID kit (9006) in 5300K temp. 3 Years old and works Great $80+ shipping. Post up with your needs and or questions. Thanks !

Hobi, I'll be following this handy guide sometime this winter to change the oil out on my forks(along with changing the springs). I'm so overdue for this that I'm ashamed(01' 20,300 miles). I hate the way the front end rides stock. As if it's over damped and under sprung. For some reason or another though,,,,,,,, I just hate the idea of doing this. Here's a quick question: What is the easiest / most effective manner to add the correct amount of oil into the tubes? Dipstick method or just premeasure the amount going in?