beondwacko

Thank you Joe. Your efforts are appreciated ! Damm ...... He's a "cool" guy !!!!!

The wrong filter may be in the right box. Does the filter have a part number on it along the gasket? Photocopy it , and send it to K&N to see what they think.

Rick ; That undertail looks MINT !! Where did you get it & how much $$ did it set you back ? Did you have to paint it ? Details Details Please !! I'm getting sick at looking at my "truck mud flap " of a rear fender.

FURBIRD : I like the idea of the sparkplug boot because the material is very heat resistant , and easy to work with. It won't dry out like rubber either. Not only that , but the base of the lamp has a larger diameter than the boot does, and it's a peice of cake to slip it on there and not have it fall off durring installation. I'll take pics durring my next project.

My bike is a pig then. I avarage about 34mpg. 2001 , K&N, D&D's .

One last note guys. I was the one who reccomened this source of the kits,( not that it matters, I just want everyone to be well "lit") and belive me , you'll be really happy with the results. But do yourselves a big favor...... I posted a thread once on how I went about the install of this kit, and when it comes to the lamp install itself you'll NEED to do what I did to keep the lamp in correct orientation in the housing! If you don't, there will be a lot of help posts and a ton of frustration !!!! The Secret with the lamp install is this. At the base of the capsule is a "disc" with a "tit" on it. This in the part of the lamp that litterally sits in the headlight housing. It has the "tit" on it so that when you place the lamp in the hole,,, it faces the right direction. The only shortcomming of this kit is this. That "disc" is shorter in height that the standard H-7 lamp. Because it is shorter, the clip that locks the lamp in place will not securely hold the lamp!! Here's the trick. TAKE A SPARKPLUG BOOT, AND CUT ABOUT 1/8-3/16'' OFF THE END. THEN,, DIAGIONALLY , CUT ONE SIDE OF THE BOOT SO THAT YOU CAN OPEN IT UP LIKE THE LETTER "C". SLIP THAT PEICE OVER THE BACK SIDE OF THE LAMP CAPSULE WHERE THE RETAINING CLIP WOULD MAKE CONTACT WITH THE "DISC" ON THE CAPSULE. THEN YOU'LL HAVE GOOD TENSION WITH THE MOUNTING CLIP INSTALLED. IF YOU IGNORE THIS PROCEDURE,YOU'LL EITHER GO CRAZY TRYING TO BEND THE CLIP TO HOLD THE LAMP , OR THE LAMP WILL JIGGLE IN THE HEADLIGHT OR FALL OUT ALL TOGETHER !!!! Also , try not to touch the glass capsule. Handle it like a halogen lamp. If you do end up touching the glass with your fingers, clean it with some alcohol ( not beer ) . Now , although the kits draws high current at startup ( 15 amp ) I didn't have to do anything to my XX's electrical system to handle it. It's never been a problem , and I have the kit installed on both high and low beam. If anyone has any install questions , I'll answear all of them. I promise. This board is the best damm thing I have found on the Web, and I just want to show my appreciation. I ended up installing the ignigtor ( starters ) under the instrument cluster. Easy enough to do. I used Zip ties to secure the starters under the instrument cluster and tied the leads to the factory harness. The ballasts got mounted to the sides of the frame under the bodywork. I did this on both the left and right side of the bike. Now, the frame is curved on both side where the ballasts were mounted. I used both double stick tape ( comes in the kit) and I also ( try not to cringe at this ) a self drilling/self tapping screw on one side of the ballast into the frame. In 5K miles of riding since I have installed the kit , the ballasts have not moved at all. Best of all , it's all out of sight, and does not require removal of the instrument cluster, fairings or anything major. You will have to remove the black plastic covers that run between the fairings and up to the dash board, but that was easy. If you follow these tips, you'll have plenty of length of the leads, and it'll make life a hell of a lot easier. If anyone comes up with some better install tips let me know. If anyone has any questions other than what was mentioned just e-mail me at beondwacko@yahoo.com Sorry I didn't have pictures to go along with this. This guy ships MEGA fast. 3 days from HONG KONG !!!! And that was to New York. Adam :idea: :idea: :idea: :idea: :idea: :idea: :idea: :idea: :idea:

One last note guys. I was the one who reccomened this source of the kits,( not that it matters, I just want everyone to be well "lit") and belive me , you'll be really happy with the results. But do yourselves a big favor...... I posted a thread once on how I went about the install of this kit, and when it comes to the lamp install itself you'll NEED to do what I did to keep the lamp in correct orientation in the housing! If you don't, there will be a lot of help posts and a ton of frustration !!!! The Secret with the lamp install is this. At the base of the capsule is a "disc" with a "tit" on it. This in the part of the lamp that litterally sits in the headlight housing. It has the "tit" on it so that when you place the lamp in the hole,,, it faces the right direction. The only shortcomming of this kit is this. That "disc" is shorter in height that the standard H-7 lamp. Because it is shorter, the clip that locks the lamp in place will not securely hold the lamp!! Here's the trick. TAKE A SPARKPLUG BOOT, AND CUT ABOUT 1/8-3/16'' OFF THE END. THEN,, DIAGIONALLY , CUT ONE SIDE OF THE BOOT SO THAT YOU CAN OPEN IT UP LIKE THE LETTER "C". SLIP THAT PEICE OVER THE BACK SIDE OF THE LAMP CAPSULE WHERE THE RETAINING CLIP WOULD MAKE CONTACT WITH THE "DISC" ON THE CAPSULE. THEN YOU'LL HAVE GOOD TENSION WITH THE MOUNTING CLIP INSTALLED. IF YOU IGNORE THIS PROCEDURE,YOU'LL EITHER GO CRAZY TRYING TO BEND THE CLIP TO HOLD THE LAMP , OR THE LAMP WILL JIGGLE IN THE HEADLIGHT OR FALL OUT ALL TOGETHER !!!! Also , try not to touch the glass capsule. Handle it like a halogen lamp. If you do end up touching the glass with your fingers, clean it with some alcohol ( not beer ) . Now , although the kits draws high current at startup ( 15 amp ) I didn't have to do anything to my XX's electrical system to handle it. It's never been a problem , and I have the kit installed on both high and low beam. If anyone has any install questions , I'll answear all of them. I promise. This board is the best damm thing I have found on the Web, and I just want to show my appreciation. This guy ships MEGA fast. 3 days from HONG KONG !!!! And that was to New York.

IronMike; Wow , good find. That must have drove you nuts trying to find a problem that lead to the regulator. That's not an item that usually goes bad.

TGO63 ; That's what I did !!

From a non professional but experienced ( automotive ) viewpoint,,,, It sounds more like an ignigtion problem from here. Fuel injectors don't just start dumping at different temps. But , ignigtion coils when faulty will act differently when they are physically warm vers' cold. If you have a bad winding in one of the coil packs, as it heats up , the material ( windings ) will expand. If a winding has a break in it, it is quite possible that it will only faulter when it gets warm enough and you'll drop 2 cylinders either intermittantly or all together. For sure check the header for which cylinders are dropping. Once you narrow that down, and if it's a common coil to those cylinders , I would ask one of the members here on the forum what the coils should ohm out at. Then check the resistance on both units when the bike is warmed up, or at least do a spark test on the coil you have narrowed down as the culprit. Don't forget , if you do this testing with only doing a spark test ( with a neon inline tester ) you may be generating enough voltage to light the tester , but not enough to create a strong spark at the plug.

My 01' typically gets about 34-36 mpg. The low fuel flashy lcd almost always starts blinking at about 160 miles. The best I ever got was ( one time and one time only ) 42 MPG. That 42 mpg was keeping the revs down below 4500, and going no faster than 70mph. I know my bike runs a little rich ,,, I can smell the gas in the exhaust. All those figures are from mixed driving conditions, never all Hwy or city.

Here's something I discovered last week that works really well. We all know that the paint on the XX is soft as pudding, and will scratch easily. I found a super easy way of spot polishing that work great. I don't know if anyone else has tried this but , I used Mothers Billet polish on the paint ( Yes ,,, the paint ) and it works really well. It doesn't leave any swirls or dullness and I used it with an old and worn soft tericloth towel. Just put wax on the spot where you polished when your done and your set. Don't use a lot of pressure when you do it . Just let the polish do the work , and as you are doing it wipe the polish clean after a little work and check the results. It also does a great job on windscreens ,chrome, and marker lenses. I hope this helps anyone who takes that extra step and has that "pride" in their bikes!

Guy's ; This is the guy I bought from on ebay. "hidseller" He sells the Mcoulloch kits. They have the seperate ballasts and starters whick makes for easier mounting. It's a 5300K kit. I have rarely seen them selling for more than $210.00 !! He's got one up for sale now , and I bet if you offered him a group buy ,, he'd prob' go for $150.00. His shipping is super fast, and he offers the kit in all lamp types. I have one kit in my XX , and another in my S-10 P/u. Chase him down guys ! You won't be sorry with the merchandise !

I always found that a little heat makes for a great convincer. A pencil style butane torch may help things. Heat has always helped me in the past when it comes to beating locktite.

HID Conversion Kit 5300K Special Offer Item number: 7996877671 Seller: hidseller ( 162) Positive Feedback: 97.6% Member since Jun-03-03 in United States Current bid: US $10.99 (Reserve not met) Time left: 4 days 6 hours 7-day listing Ends Sep-06-05 07:23:45 PDT Item location: Rancho Palos Verdes, California United States Ships to: Worldwide Summary Limited Time Offer. Model Available H1, H3, H4, H7, H11, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007On Jan-31-04 at 02:20:43 PST, seller added the following information: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Select a picture Protect yourself from Spoof (fake) emails. Learn More You are receiving this email because the sender thought you would be interested in this eBay item. You can report this message as unwanted (spam) email. Learn more about spam email. As outlined in our User Agreement, eBay will periodically send you information about site changes and enhancements. Visit our Privacy Policy and User Agreement if you have any questions. Copyright © 2005 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. eBay and the eBay logo are trademarks of eBay Inc. The HTML graphics in this message have been displayed. [Edit Preferences - What's This?] DeleteReplyForwardSpamMove...

I just heard on the news that the world has no more oil left. You may have to use chain wax or monkey squeezins'. :?

I would check the torque on the muffler bearings. Also , the float bowls on the injectors might have become inverted. I'll bet though,,, if you hold this riding position ,,, it'll run just fine !!!

I'm not shittin' anyone about this deal. The High beam is wicked bright. Be warned though. When riding 2 up ,,, it will put the low beam a little high. I constantly get flashed be oncoming traffic as if my High beams were on. I used a 5300K lamp in my kit. It's almost pure white when the lamp get up to temp. Just remember..... if you do the upgrade on the highbeam,,,, you'll no longer be able to use it as a "flash to pass". None of the HID makers reccomend that you rapidly cycle the power to those units. Now I have to figure out how I'm gonna install a Diesel Locomotive horn and not make it obivious. P.S. I paid $209 w/shipping from HIDSUPERMSN on e-bay for my kit, and I'd reccomend that because of space constraints that you use a kit with a seperate starter, not an integrated one. It allows for more flexability in the mounting of the kit. Any other questions ,,, just ask. Adam

If you think that the low beam is killer,,,,, try the HID on High beam as well. I swear you can see for a mile on a clear road. I at times get oncoming traffic flashing me with brights when I'm riding 2 up. Then I hit my brights.......... yeah it takes a few seconds to get really bright ,,, but after that ,,,, I usually don't get flashed by the same car again. At least that was in NY ,,,, down here in Fla ,,,, most of these cagers are just assholes.

Hey there again ; Flickering is weird. Most of those ballasts are stable down to 9Vdc. You might want to put an analog volt meter across the input side of the ballast to see if there is a major fluctuation. I have seen when a diode ( 1 or 2 of 3 ) goes bad in an automotive application there will be a pulsation electrically. Also , put that same volt meter across the battery while the bike is running,,, but the cooling fan is off. Great pics BTW ! I always liked the blue XX's most of all.

The weight of the ballasts on the intake tubes doesn't cause them to deform? :?: :?:

I too installed an HID kit on my 01' XX. I opted though to mount the ballasts ( 2 ) on either sides of the bike under the fairings on the sides of the frame. It is a McCullough brand kit I got on Ebay w/5300K lamps. My kit used seperate starters, and those I mounted under the instrument cluster. On the McCullough kit , there was 3 feet of leads the ballasts to the starter , and another 3 feet from the starter to the lamp socket. The most difficult part of the job was to figure out where to mount everthing with out disasembling the whole front end , and why the lamps were not being held securely by the headlight bulb retaining clip. It seems that the base of the lamp (HID) is shorter in height than the halogen that was in there and the clip was not pressing against the base with any pressure. I took a spark plug boot, sliced the end off ( about 3/16" long ) and put another cut in the boot so I could slip it onto the base of the lamp. That did the trick. The clip held firm after that and the lamps stayed in proper orientation with the reflectors. I would suggest that for most riders, that they do not install this kit on the High Beams like I did. The reason why is because if you ever use the high beams to warn traffic or as flash to pass, there is a required warm up time to get to full brightness. That takes about 15 seconds. But, if you ever wished that you could burn the retnas of the cage in front of you through their rear view miror,,,,,, they work great on Hi beam too. :idea: :shock: :idea: