beondwacko

Now you guys got me thinking. Was the Pair system also used on the 01' models as well? And BTW.......... a less restrictive intake will cause a slight leaning in the overall mixture. This is common sense, and very old knowledge.

Barry, Yes it will help, not cure things, but it will help. I went this route with my bike and a set of D&D's. I did notice a difference in MPG ( like 1 or 2mpg improvement ) but seat of the pants felt the same. I later learned that (during a dyno session) that I had big swings from lean to rich and back all over the place. Only a PCII(my mike is an 01' you would need a PCIII ) will solve things all together.

What in the hell do you have that draws 40 amps? Are you sure your farkle draws a true 40 amps, or is the relay that you have for it rated for a 40 amp load? It's a little strange because most heavy duty 12V relays are 30 amp rated. You need to double check the true draw of that farkle.

Damm. I've got 4 brand new GE 400W Metal Halide Parking lot flood lights that I'm doing nothing with too. They draw 4 amps each @110V. 2 of them would make your garage look like an NFL stadium X2 !

Puzzled the shit outta me too... I put it on before Hookers last yr. most of the miles on it were commuting / long distance type riding..... I won't go away from them anytime soon + they haven't stepped out on me in any "spirited" riding Can't say the same about the "Stones" Same here about stepping out. I have not had one instance where the PR's have gotten squirly. I have had some "Hard" rides on the PR's and because this is Florida, the rear is getting a bit square. I run about 38 psi front and rear. I might step up the rear by a couple psi just as an experiment. I know that I don't carve turns as hard as some of the members up in here, and that might be the reason why the bike has not gotten out of line, but the difference from OEM was night and day. Unreal.

8K out of a rear? dayum! Either you don't twist the throttle a lot or I don't know. I might get 6K out of my PR rear. No burnouts either.

Cam timing doesn't have as much of an effect on what fuel you run as does ignigtion timing. If you go with a set of cams that have a significantly longer duration, the advantage of advancing the cams is to help keep your RPM ceiling lower and put the power more in the rpm band where you can use it. Most cam manufaturers will suggest where to set the cams up initially, some advise "straight up" some request a given amount of advance. That depends on the company you are dealing with. Understand that typically the more radical the grind over stock, more additional tuning will be needed to maximize the changes in the valve train timing. Both fuel and spark curves will need to be adjusted more and more the as the duration and lift go further and further from OEM specs. Northman, Any advice on a more narrow centerline increasing lower RPM cylinder pressures versus a wider centerline?

Let me guess, they flash very quickly too since you swapped out the rear signals too ? Replace the flasher unit with an electronic one and it will normalize the flash rate. Ask John01XX where to get one.

Didn't Honda change to a "closed loop" FI system in 02'? They do have an O2 sensor I thought where as my 01' doesn't.

Very nice decals! As it has been said by others in here, I'm also not much of a gold fan, but those decals really set the bike off. Good job!

Just ping John01XX and he'll set you up with one. He sells the newer units with the 2 green dot's on it. It's a very easy change to make as well. I'd say almost anyone should be able to do it if they can follow directions. It's not all that complicated.

Kiwi, Where on Long Island are you located? I was dealing with Fun Wheels Honda out in Medford on Rt112. Decent people and OK prices. Stay away from Freeport Honda on Sunrise Hwy.

They are the same part number on EBC's pads for front and rear.

That's a bunch of Luggage Square! I bet you could smuggle a petite mexican in there on a dare.

It's a good thought, but most of the multi port adapters don't fit very well. If you could find one that fits securely it may work. I like the idea of mounting in the plastic by the tank. I agree with what you are saying about the multi-adaptors. They are shit no doubt. I was more or less suggesting that J mounts a small plate to the side of his tank bag ( from the inside ) with small pop rivits and washers, but only cut the nylon to accomadate the two outlets. Then the outlets which should be slightly shouldered will also assist in holding the nylon to the plate was well. Feed those two with some 12ga fine stranded wire, fused with a 20 amp fuse though a relay. Tap off the battery directly and use a tail light running light as a trigger signal and yer set. At least I would try doing it that way. $.02

What are the service intervals for changing the fork oil? I'm sure I'm overdue by now. Also, if I were to just change the oil, what's the easiest way to drain the fork tubes? I never noticed a drain screw. I guess I would have to pull the front wheel, and remove the center allen bolt that runs up the middle of the fork tube via the saddle in the leg that the axle sits in. Any other ideas?

J, A question or two for you about all this. First off, the outlet you selected looks top notch in terms of quality. Good choice in selection. What is the amperage rating of this peice? Instead of swiss cheesing your bike with multiple holes for outlets, why not make a short H/D harness that will plug into the single outlet and split out with multiple female outlets? You could tuck them away into your tank bag, and even possibly mount one of the female recepticles onto the bag itself to plug in any heated appareal(sp?) or other accesories. I would think that by going this route, it wouldn't impeede your ability to reach anything and it would be convient to getting on and off the bike. What do you think of this?

Those Starter cultches do suck! The plungers in mine from my CB11000f were ready to blow through the bell at only 7500 miles. I think I paid $200 for the replacement parts. Then I sold it.

OK, here's the story as of today. I went down to the shop that has the crashed 99' XX. The shop owner said that the owner of the bike is going to fix it. Now, this may change after he get's a check in his hand, but , we'll have to see. Believe me, there is no one more disappointed about this than me. I needed to make the $$. If anything changes, I'll post it. Sorry for the bad news guys.

If I planned on going 220 miles between fill up's , I'd be pushing the bike at least 40 miles of that distance. At around 165 miles almost like clockwork the reserve indicator comes on. So maybe I'd have 25 miles left or so after that?

Allen, I have seen them sell for between $200-400 depending on condition and color.

Got my '02 leftover new a couple years ago. She's currently nearing 30K and still on the stock plugs. No power loss, no twitchy engine characteristics, she'll still power wheelie in 1st and 2nd with no problem, and I get mid 30s gas mileage on local stuff, probably because I like to rip it a bit from light to light on occasion and get cars off my ass. I can still pull mid to high 40s to an even 50 mpg on the road, depending on whether I'm doing 70 or 90 hehe. I'll be doing a tuneup this season though and I might replace them at that time. No sense letting them get bad on me, right? Power wheelies in second gear? You must be a bit lighter in weight than I am. In second gear, the front end stays down when riding 1 up. Unless I get the bike going in second gear at about 8K or higher, let off on the throttle a little, and then nail it, once in a blue moon it will come up a little, but often. My milage is no as good as yours. I get mid to low 30's in mixed riding. Upper 30's if it's all highway and I being good. The best I have ever gotten was 42MPG being really gentle.

No sweat on the chain thing. Go to the dealer over on military just north of Okeechobee, right in your neck of the woods. He installed a chain on my bike (RK) and changed the oil and the bill was only about $200. Done in less than an hour to boot. The place looks scary when you peak into the service department but they did a good job for me. I managed to push 18K out of my chain but I won't do that again. 15K and it's gone. To get back on topic. I wouldn't worry about the plugs. Clean the KN, or, IMHO, toss it and put in a stocker. Around town mine varies a lot in milage but averages in the low 30's. Get about 38 or so on the highway running at a steady 5000 RPM (stock sprockets). Florida air is HEAVY. It ain't gonna get much better short of going the Power Commander route and leaning back your low rpm and small throttle opening maps. I ran some numbers on the savings based on $2.50 gas prices and it would pay back in about 100K miles. Ed, Actually, when I put in the K&N, I picked up almost 2mpg on avarage. Remember that I mentioned that (when we had breakfast that morning ) my bike at lower RPM smells like it's was running rich? Actually, at idle especially. The K&N helped with that a little bit. Short of going with a PCII and a good map for it, nothing is going to change that. Strange how a set of slip-on's would cause it to run rich. On a carbed bike, it would be lean if anything. I guess you are talking about Palm Beach Cycles over there on Military Trail. I hate that place. The prices they charge are outragous. They were asking $17+ for a 20oz spray bottle of Honda Brite. I have been going to another shop off of RT441 about 1/2 mile south of Okeechobee. They have been treating me well, and giving me a bit of a discount when I ask for it. I bought a 5 qt jug of S-100 for $35 w/tax. This is the same guy who sold me the Pilot Roads installed for $247 with tax.

Wow. It looks like NASA just Puked in there! J/K. Also, I noticed that on the side of the rear cowling you have the PGM-FI decal. That must be normal on non US models. The US models have the LBS decal there. BTW, what do you have connected on that thing? I see 2 relays ( there may be more. I only saw 2 ) that you added on.

I just looked over the bike again. It's got Vance & Hines Carbon slip on's. THe bike also has new Dunlop's D208's. I will hopefully know what the deal is with it by the end of the week. The estimate by the bike shop is for $4800 in repairs. That's got to be close to what it was worth before all the damage. Keep yer' fingers crossed !