brianmacza

I had similar issues with my '97 - starter would turn the motor but she wouldn't fire at all... turned out to be a failed killswitch.

I have this problem both Mozilla and MSIE7 - a pain in the ass when you're logged in and select a link only to get the login screen coming up AGAIN. Have cleared caches, reset cookie settings to default, etc... no improvement.

Its all about ratios eat less, shit more

Ok... got a new water pump at last... the difference is not noticeable at first.. you have to look carefully to see which one failed. old: new: Wonder what the hell happened....

No, I haven't............................but I'd be more worried where the missing blades went !!!!!!!!!!! Were the remaining blades rusty or damaged?? They were lying loose in the pump housing... the pump rotates freely, just the seal failed due to chunks of metal scratching against it (assuming again because there are score marks around the seal area) - if the seal hadn't been damaged I may never have noticed, I guess. A new waterpump is quoted by the local Honda stealership at US$480 - how close is this to reality in the USA or UK? We get assraped by the manufacturers in South Africa as far as spares costs go. Might consider bringing one in if the costs are gonna be worthwhile.

This morning I went for a brisk ride, and noticed water flooding out the lower right side of the fairing... Trailered the bike home and diagnosed the problem as a blown water pump seal. Opened the water pump up and found that 4 of the blades on the impellor are GONE. Missing... not there at all. Anyone ever had a water pump impellor disintegrate like this before?

My Yuasa battery needed charging at under 2 amps for a whole day before I put it on the bike. If you read the carcass of the battery they mention that the max input charge should be 2A - if you put in 4A or more you risk buckling the plates.

Autosol metal polish gets that off fast

One thing I was told when I bought my new battery (because I went thru this exact scenario yet my RR and so forth checked out fine) was that the battery is never fully charged when you get it - you need to put it on a low-amp charge cycle for a good few hours to get it maxed up before putting in the bike. I put my new battery on a 2A charge for 6 hours, and it has been great. My previous battery (when the OE unit died) lasted a princely 3 months. YMMV

Might not be relevant, but I went from a Bridgestone BT020 rear to the Z6. Was instantly more comfortable, turned better to the point where I was touching the hero blobs on my footpegs for the 1st time ever and not feeling unhappy. With the 020 I never came close to that - it didn't feel secure enough. BTW, I ride my XX at probably 5% of its potential... B

I had a similar problkem with the vent hose being pinched. To get home I had to stop every 5 miles or so and open the gas cap to get air in - it made a hiss each time the cap was unsealed. Something you make sure not to do twice

wow... for a moment I wondered if this was a mis-labelled NWS item

You will notice an immediate improvment in acceleration and response... get a speedohealer tho to make your speedo resmble reality (rather than 13% overeading due to the stock 7% error compounded by the 16 tooth front sprocket) I'm eager to test my new slipons this weekend when my bike gets reassembled - the sound is nice so far, but I dunno if theres gonna be a serious flat spot now or not.

In South Africa we only have 93 and 95 octane unleaded (and a 93 octane LRP which I don't use). 93 works just peachy

This fuckwit has me worried now... I just bought some locally made copies of the Akra slipons (2006 model exhaust in aluminium because obviously carbon is the same as coal, and that burns y'know) Is it gonna fit my 1997 headers without my back wheel falling off and fouling my hugger? please give me the collective wisdom, 'cos I just got intimidated by all the big words and brave noises give me a BREAK :icon_duh:

yeah.. it took me 500 posts to earn even halfway reasonable contempt.

Run some carb cleaner thru the task (you guys use seafoam, I use Wynns Spitfire) Works a charm. How old are your plugs? Have you used a crap grade of gas?

Consider this... land speed record attempts have exceeded 200Mph with lesser equipment (less power and poorer airodynamics) for yonks... the advantage they have is a MEAN run up and a loooooong flat salt pan to get to the desired speed. So basically, a mean mutha long road with maybe a slight decline slope would be able to see 200Mph with the right gearing. It might help if you have Anson running in front to catch his slipstream tho

Quite good and informative reading --> README <---

Just remember that my exchange rate is US$1X6.55 In my mickey-mouse currency that is quite a lot

Shipping to the dark continent is seriously expensive. I'm gonna get the upper and left panel plastic welded and resprayed, along with the mirror shells and front fender.

I managed to get a 2nd hand headlamp for US$300 from a breaker... the fairing bracket they offered me looked like a pretzel (US$90) - I applied judicious force with the assistance of a rubber mallet to my bent one and got it pretty much straight. Will only be able to tell when I get the fairing upper on it tho. Tx for the offer, tho... muchas appreciated.

Surprising... mine is held quite tight by gobs of chainlube gunk normal

Arctic, there was very little difference in economy between a 17-tooth front and a 16-tooth. Biggest difference is power wheelies at 7k revs being easy (and I'm a little bigger 'n you) and lofting the front in 2nd for giggles is doable. I went down to Arniston with the bike and stripies out of bends in 2nd and 3rd are easy... at sea level she's an animal but up here at 2000m she's merely great.

I'm running Z6 front and rear... lots more grip and far better overall feel tham the BT020 rear / BT010 front combo I had before.