Pete in PA

Always replace the front sprocket. I just did a chain and front sprocket on a KLX650C. The front sprocket looked like a ninja throwing star it was that sharp. I wrapped the new chain around the rear sprocket and it was as tight as if it was brand new so I'll run it for another chain.

I'm SOOO glad I mount and balance by own tires! Just figuring out what tire, and where to get it cheapest is enough. Having to deal with where to mount, how much, who won't even mount if not bought there, etc. is too much.

I've got a tip. Keep your old filter. This is for 97 and 98. I'm sure it will work for 99 and up, but you'll have to do your own research for what fits. I have been successful at cutting/dremmeling out the old filter material, cutting a Purolator filter for a car to size, (couldn't find an exact size match have to shorten one end) and hot gluing it into the old filter plate. Purolator filter # A24378 It's not just that I'm cheap (I am) but it breathes better, runs stronger, Went up 2 mpg, is available at any auto parts store even on Sunday, and costs $7 instead of $35 for the Honda filter you WILL have to order. I've got 2 plates to rotate through, I can build the next filter at my leisure while running the other.

Jeeez Tom, how did YOU get the bolt out with a broken easy out in there? Have you owned it since new?

Here's my post when I did it. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...eering+bearings

Just go to an 18 tooth front and leave the rear at stock 45. No chain length change needed. The rear Honda sprocket is good for 2 chains (40k miles) Don't even think of trying an aluminum sprocket. You'll destroy it in less then 10k miles. Plus they cost more. I'm hoping the one tooth up on the front gets me more chain mileage.

Just wanted to add that my kids school bus has Michelin tires on it and it has that exact same white bar code thing on but it's on the sidewall where you can see it. Not mounted at the valve stem, almost 180 degrees from it.

:icon_shocked: :icon_shocked: Did I say :icon_shocked:?? Strangely I mounted my rear with no regard to that white bar code and needed no weights. It was my front that needed an ounce. the most I've ever put on a front. What tire balancer are you using? BTW take a black magic marker to those silver stick on weights, looks a lot better.

I think that's just an inventory control bar code, not a balance point. I just ignored it and mounted.

No video or audio from me. I DID like the video, especially the music. :icon_clap: Too funny. If you start out I'd do the center first. even with the smallest hole it doesn't sound bad. I am at 146 hp now, I think it did something. (in conjunction with an advancer and only slightly warmed up jetting)

Don't drill the little holes! :icon_doh: Go deep in the big hole and punch it through for a straight shot for the exhaust gas. Sounds great and helps engine breathe. http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...;hl=bafflectomy

I'd say rod bearing also. When the 900RR is wheelied to much it oil starves at the pick up and smokes rod bearings. The cams will go for a while without pressure using just residual oil. If the crankcase isn't breathing the oil filter is not where it would blow. I suspect 2 gaskets also. I hope the Purolator filter wasn't defective, that's what I use.

Yep no dots. :icon_thumbsdown: The rear needed no weights the front needed an entire ounce. (4 1/4 oz stick ons) I think that is the most I've ever put on the front. Isn't there a post somewhere stating what the max amount of weight allowed to add front and rear is? I should probably dismount and spin the tire 180 degrees. Pain in the ass, I'd rather ride!

They are great! Border on telepathic! So smooth from straight up to fully heeled over. In a half hour I was already dragging pegs and chewing up Bib (the Michelin man on the edge of the rear tire). They also absorb bumps straight up and leaned over better then any tire I've had. At 78k miles this is the first set of sport tires I've mounted on my XX. I'm sure I'll toast the rear in 2k miles or less but I'll have fun doing it!

Weird. Just Mounted my Pilot Powers yesterday :icon_thumbsup: and as usual checked my wheel bearings. At 78K miles still tight and smooth. Never changed a wheel bearing on a bike in my life. V65 had 72k miles on all its bearings no problems. One note, the old bearing makes an ideal tool to hammer the new bearing in. I had a hell of a time pulling my rear sprocket hub out of the rubbers. Had a build up of dirt right at the edge where the 2 metal parts meet.

It's a dynojet model 150. My first run on this dyno was in May of 2001. I've run in May of 01, 02, 04, 05, and now 07. all 130-136 hp till this 146hp. run this year. I'm thinking the advancer and richer jetting on center cylinders did the most. I still have the 5k hiccup, I thought by the seat of my pants I got rid of it. Really can't feel it while riding.

Last time I ran my bike on this Dyno was in May 2005. I got 135 HP. at 55,000 miles. I've ALWAYS got 135 or less on various dynos. Now with 77,950 mi. I got 146 HP! Mods since 2005: Ignition advancer, up 1 size on center cylinders main jets to match outside cylinders, drilled out baffles in stock exhaust. A bone stock 2003 ZX-12R got 168 HP for reference.

Just got back from a HP shootout, heard them on a ZZR 1200. Sounded real nice. He pulled a 144 HP I got 146. :icon_thumbsup: That with 77k miles on my XX!

No, never saw it, that's not good. I've noticed that it's easy to put in the pads and they fell right, but the top isn't in the groove. you have to look with a flashlight from the other side to make sure. Also make sure the caliper bracket is in it's slot in the swingarm.

Depending on the air chuck design on the compressor it wont release air without a valve core in place. With all the bike tires I've done myself I've never had a problem airing a tire up and bead sealing with the valve core in place. I detect no leakage right up to when the bead pops on the rim. Now a lawn tractor tire is a different story. For a back up bring a ratchet strap to wrap around the circumference of the tire, this always works.

The mantra has always been "Lube a chain hot, adjust a chain cold". The chain is at it's tightest when the front sprocket, swing arm pivot, and rear sprocket are in line. (with the suspension almost all the way compressed). When you have a dirt bike with 11 in. of rear travel you will see this. The spec. given in the owners/service manual takes this into account and tells you to set the slack on the side stand. I've never figured out the difference between checking on the side VS. center stand. While on the side stand my rear suspension is topped out anyway. Same result. I just do it on the centerstand. Now that I have the 6mm shim I still don't like not knowing the spec. now.

Cool, thanks guys. This things a good tight woods bike since it's sooo light. Much lighter then my XR650L.

I've got no owners or service manual. For those who don't know it's a 1975 Kawasaki 100 c.c. 2 stroke. What oil goes in the gearbox, keeping in mind it's a wet clutch riding in the same oil. Gears and clutch acting a bit wonky. After rinseing out all the rust in the tank, cleaning out the petcock filter, adding an inlne filter, new fuel lines, cleaning the carb, new plug, it's running great. gets my 300 lbs. up to 45 mph.

Storing a bike doesn't cause the carbs to go out of sync. Vibration, mechanical wear and compression changes do. I think after a 6 year hiatus the carbs have to come out regardless if you drained them. That last little bit left in the bowls still wreaks havoc. Besides you can't adjust the pilot screws with them installed anyway. I'd shim the needles for a 4k stumble. I've covered all the particulars before just do a search and good luck.

A 1/2 in. is too much. I've removed my side stand in the past and with a rubber mallet and piece of wood hammered the gap closer between the "U" on the end till it just slips over the metal.