Pete in PA

My 2 cents on some of these questions. On the initial intro of a new model the rags get a "massaged" bike. I can't count how many times when a few years later they dyno the same model and they say "this ones strangely down 12 HP from our first one." I've dynoed my bike at least 5 times over 7 years on the same dyno (Dynojet model 150) and get almost carbon copies so they are accurate and repeatable. It tells me my engine isn't wearing. 135HP BTW. This is done at a yearly HP shootout. It's like an assembly line all the bikes they chuck on and off this thing in a few hours time and they run ALL the bikes in 4th gear. You just can't compare dyno #'s between Eddy Current (Factory) and Dynojet dynos. they're different animals. Eddys give more useful/accurate info but post much lower #'s I saw quoted somewhere that 70% of aerodynamics is from the rear on bikes so without that Hayabussa hump forget it.

I'm wondering (hoping) that this suspension mod will increase my tire mileage. Any thoughts?

I checked my wheel allignment with a string (can be VERY acurate if you take your time) and found the allignment marks to be perfect. The front wheel was offset to the right 4mm though, might be a front fork length problem. Once you have your rear wheel alligned (however you do it) to your satisfaction it should never change. Just count flats on the adjuster bolts. Say I adjust my chain, I turn the left one one flat and the right one one flat. Then I turn the little C-clip on the end so the open end is pointing straight up which is my new reference flat. Also if you do this on the centerstand there is some play in the set up. Always push forward on the rear wheel when tightening up the axle nut. If you can't feel this play it's time to rip it apart and clean all that mung from the adjusters and swingarm. Then lightly tighten the adjusters. or the axle will move, even with the 69 ft. lbs. on the axle nut. (yes it does, I was surprised) Of course I and this whole post could be on crack if my tire mileage is any indication.

Just took a test ride! Just as I suspected, I can't even make it headshake! Run her up to 60, take hands off, hit the rear brake, and whack the left handlebar with your fist several times while decelerating through 45 and nothing, rock solid! Doing that used to guarantee a headshake. Also corners a lot smother. U turns are easier with the steering smoother. I used to lock the throttle lock and go no handed and the bike would hunt left and right needing constant corection. Now it just tracks, and I can go through a corner with just tilting my head.

Just took a test drive. Hyperpro did their homework. The ride is much more supple, absorbs bumps instead of jarring me. Yet I've lost nothing in the corners, in fact it now tracks bumps in corners instead of skipping over them. I'm happy, well worth the $250.

Go for it! it's really easy! I can't wait for my first ride when I'll run her up to 60 in 3rd gear then shut her down with my hands off the bars and get................ NOTHING! NO HEADSHAKE! So is that when you know you need new head bearings? When you get headshake when running with no hands? No, that's when you prop up your front end and slowly turn the bars back and forth and find a notch in the straight ahead position. I've had a notch for years, that was slowly getting worse. The design of the tapered bearing over balls is so far superior that all bikes should come with them from the factory. I'd be willing to bet that I could find a notch in every well used XX out there that still has the factory bearings.

Go for it! it's really easy! I can't wait for my first ride when I'll run her up to 60 in 3rd gear then shut her down with my hands off the bars and get................ NOTHING! NO HEADSHAKE!

All Balls steering head kit from Chaparral. $28.99.

As always, no pics, still no digital camera. I used a punch on the two stem nuts. It feels WAY different turning bars back and forth. No notch of course but way smoother and tighter. Test ride will have to wait, it's 25 right now and snow on the way for Saturday. I'm still not back together, wanted to do the write-up while it's still fresh in my head.

Remove rear shock. Lube threads on shock. using a punch and hammer remove first lock ring completely. Now this next step I didn't learn till I was going back together. The adjustment ring likes to turn with the spring and act as one. I put a pry bar in the top mount hole with the shock lying on my carpet (old basement carpet) Now roll the spring the correct direction and it will turn the adj. ring with it and walk it right off. The other option is use a spanner tool but it is way harder. Remove the old spring noteing how the bottom mount works. Install new spring and preload per instructions from Hyperpro. Reinstall. To get the front of the bike off the ground I placed it on the centerstand. I then used ratcheting tiedown straps from the floor joists (above, I'm in my basement) to the frame cross tube that's under the airbox. I also backed this up with a jack under the oil pan just in case. First loosen the fork caps then remove the forks. Follow the Hyperpro instructions and sevice manual to change the fork fluid and swap the springs. Reassemble. Just did some rider sag measurments. Have rear at 38 mm. With no changes, front is at 38 mm. Remember I'm 300lbs. (but going down) The Hyperpro front springs are longer than factory so the fork cap was under tension to screw on. Just like I had with the factory springs and spacers I made. So Maybe they DO know what they're doing at Hyperpro. Now I'll have to wait for warmer weather for a test ride.

That's right, NONE! Unless you call a 10 in. section of pipe (of the same diameter as the inner race) and a 10 in. punch special tools. Hardest part is the removal of ALL plastic and entire front end. I won't go into the entire dissasembly, just follow the service manual. If you can't do that don't try this yourself. You will need a 10 in. long punch to drive out the head races. Just remember the gooseneck IS aluminum. take your time and slowly walk out the top and bottom races tapping around the circumference. Don't beat on one side. We want the race to come out intact, not shatered. It's your installation tool. to install the new races just use the old races as an interface to hammer them in. Again work slowly and keep it running in true. You'll know when your in far enough, the race will butt up against the shoulder in the gooseneck and the pitch of the hammer will change. Now onto the triple tree race. This took more work but I got it off without cutting through it. Wrap electrical tape arond the stem threads to protect them. Just use a punch and slowly hammer the dust seal upwards with the race. (this will trash the dust seal, there are 2 new ones with the bearing kit) It's a slow process and requires patience, but it will come off. Again that is your installation tool so don't bugger it up. Now place the new dust seal on then the inner bearing and race (one piece). Now put the old race on top of this (You must apply the force to the new inner race ONLY not the bearing or you will trash it.) and then slip the pipe over and start hammering. Again, walk it on true, till it bottoms on the dust seal. You'll know it's there when the dust seal isn't loose anymore. Then reassemble. I procrastinated, worried, read everything on the internet I could find, and it's no big deal. I read about putting the bearings in the freezer, heating the gooseneck with a torch, needing a press for the bearings, etc. All unnecessary. I could see the indents of every seperate ball in the old races. That's why I had a notch in the straight ahead position. In short it's simple and cheap, just do it.

I went the cheap way with a clip once. I replaced 3 missing clips in 20k miles. Just look down and it's GONE! Good the side plates are such a tight fit. I realized that at over 130 or so they come off. When I switched to a rivet chain (and bought the MP tool) I found a broken clip stuck in the chain spooge at the front sprocket. They are actually breaking off in pieces at high speed. RIVET ONLY!

+1. I picked one up at the local Ace Hardware for a couple of bucks; fits perfectly. Sure...Now mine broke off. There's one at Ace Hardware that's a perfect replacement for the factory one? You are talking about the factory exaust right?

http://www.sasbk.co.za/suspension_setup_guidelines.htm Another good suspension write up.

I'm in the middle of my Hyperpro install, Rear spring is done and I'll be in my forks next. I didn't try to do any math, started with a 1in. spacer and cut it down once and it was perfect with thestock springs.

That's what I say. I've had the stock pairs filled with RTV for years and still have to remove them first to pull the valve cover.

Not a bad price, I'll check White Buffalo but that might be the best.

You can't remove the valve cover with the stock pair valves in place because they're too tall and hit the frame crossover brace. I'm still in. Might have to PM me, I don't look at the FS section often enough.

Also for the front forks you can put a zip tie friction tight around one tube so the dust cover pushes on it for easy measurements.

I'll be needing a chain this year (groan ) Where you getting yours and how much?

I'm in. I've had those towers plugged with RTV for years now, but I still have to remove them to pull the valve cover. The plates CAN stay in place when you pull the valve cover right?

Cables are probably trapped under the airbox and binding. Have to be routed in exactly the right spot.

There is a pull cable and a push cable so if there is a problem with the setup you can roll the throttle closed and the push cable will close the throttle plates. Sounds like you may have a frayed or broken cable. Time to take it apart and investigate.

I've switched to the Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5-40. It's thinner so less drag on the engine and more power. Only problem now is wally world hasn't carried it lately in the 5 qt jug around here. Anyone seen it in their local wally world?

Gas IS the BIG mystery. We ponder/debate to death what oil, chain lube etc. to use but then we just stop where ever and dump the gas in. Conceiveably getting different stuff every time even at the same station. I've checked here in PA and have never seen any stickers on the pumps saying whats in the gas. Is gasahol everywhere? I would say if you have a choice and know if it's in there or not, don't use it. Ethanol will cause your bike to run leaner possibly needing jetted/PC''d