Warp11XX

So, is Throttlemeister the brand to get? From the overall threads I've looked up, it seems so. Any horror stories? Where the hell do you get them? I've got two shops looking now... :roll: I've seen their website and they suggest "local shop" purchase...

It is a simple deal...you take the bike to dealer and they jack up the front proportioning link valve and leave it there for 30 minutes. If it does not leak, you are good. If it leaks, they have to replace an o-ring kit. You will probably have to wait for the parts to arrive and return the bike for repair. Honda did not ship kits until it was tested for us. My bike is '03 and was good. Good luck! :mrgreen:

Carbs or FI ? My guess and complete stab in the dark... Plugs...the fire/pop/bang/shoot flames out the tailpipe trick, sounds familiar to me...it was plugs... :roll: It happens to my CB900/1100F occasionally/regularly with the identical symptoms. I've always used NGK DR8ES plugs in it. Change plugs and the problem goes away for 8 to 12 months. Go figure... :roll:

:roll: Give 'em time...the Communistwealth will eventually catch up. Do you guys have to endure the exhaust/anal probe thingy yet in your area? I'm hoping that our low population density will allow me to live out my years and pass on before it gets here... :mad: but I doubt it.... You mention "gas powered dildo's"...aren't Harleys still classed as motor vehicles? :scooter:

I realize that after the fact is just a dandy time to think about this but... :oops: :oops: If Virginia ever adopts the emissions testing requirements statewide that the NOVA/D.C. area residents have to endure, would a 2003 Bird with the Yosh RS-3 exhaust and a Power Commander PCIII be able to pass? If so, is it clean enough with the "base" map programmed into it or should adjustments be made to the lean side before going to the inspection station? I'd hate to play "musical exhausts", but I would if I had too... :twisted: :twisted: that pipe sounds soooo sweet....

If all other lubricating products on the planet were suddenly vaporized and all that was left was Castrol GTX 10/40 and Valvoline Motorcycle 10/40, which one would you use? And please don't say "I'd use spit"...pretend you have the worst case of continuous cottonmouth that ever existed... :roll: I would consider GN4 if like 20 people pop up and say it is the best thing since beer...but that ain't gonna happen...is it? I'm hoping for an eventual sticky on "approved" oils that members here have tried... like what was referenced in the Pub earlier in the week... :roll: 67 zillion threads is too many to look through just to answer a simple question... Simple... :roll: ...yeah...right... *insert beating dead horse smiley here 63 times*

Cool! Thanks! :mrgreen:

One question... :grin: Is the stock wiring for the signals long enough to stretch without splicing in a new section of wire or connector? I'm just guessing that it is...

Been looking on the BikeBits website... :sad: Are the extenders sold out? I don't see an order option there anymore...

Don't forget about designing some type of heating system if you plan on doing work in there during cold weather. There are some really cool systems and designs available now that are relatively cheap and effective. I sure wish I would have looked into heating my floor. That type system will heat and reheat the area quickly, even if you open and close the doors a lot. I'm using a Reddy Heater now that works great if you don't mind it sucking all the oxygen out of the air every hour or so... :shock:

This may help or it may not... Problem 1- If you changed the plugs and did not use dielectric grease on/in the plug caps, water could be partially shorting the fire to the plug. This is really common and I've had several bikes and cars that were "sensitive" to it. Check condition of the plug wires themselves also. The coil end of the plug wires should also get dielectric grease if they have been removed or replaced. Problem 2- Is the bike sitting long periods between starting attempts? Does it seem to not do this if started daily or at least every few days? It could easily be the solenoid itself or if the long interval between starts is common, you could be experiencing some slight build up of corrosion and contact resistance on the starter motor brushes themselves. This should be an easy circuit to follow with a voltmeter and see where you have voltage and where you don't when the starter button is depressed. Problem 3- I have no clue! :roll: I'm still too new an aquaintance of the Bird to make any type of experienced or educated guess. If problems on the carbed XX's follow other bikes, midrange surging is often a lean condition. If jetted, raise the needle a notch or two...??? maybe... Good luck! Warm weather has to be just around that next long sweeper... :mrgreen:

Is the black powdercoat a close enough match to not be noticable on a black Bird if left unpainted? It may take me two or three weeks (I owe my life and first born child to Visa right now on a CBF bigbore project ) before I order, but I am guaranteed going to get them from you as soon as possible. :mrgreen:

Way cool! :cool: Thanks!

I'd be interested in a black set of extenders too. My elbows are really cute and everything, but I'm tired of looking at them now... :mrgreen: Besides that, I like seeing other bikes get smaller and smaller and smaller...

Thanks guys! :mrgreen: It is gonna take awhile before I can actually see it (1:04:?? :shock: damn) since its HUGE. It does cover '03? Are there any differences that are notable from '02 and earlier?

Been looking on Ebay and haven't seen any '03 service manuals or fiche's available. Do they exist? Is there a choice between a "factory" manual and an aftermarket manual like Clymer or somebody? I saw the Ebay ad for the guy who scanned a manual into cd format but I question the usefulness and quality of something like that...? Any thoughts or experience? Thanks in advance. :mrgreen:

So... :roll: Bottom line from a safety standpoint would probably suggest that with my weight, I should at least keep them in the high 30's to maximum pressure range most of the time, wouldn't you think? Two thirds of my riding time will be a thirty minute slab commute to work with almost no stops. I've had pretty good performance and handling out of the much smaller tires on the F at around 38psi. It is sounding to me like they are pretty similar, just much bigger. :shock: Maybe it is just me but, does this bike just seem to inspire way more confidence, even in the damn rain, than could possibly be good for you? :mrgreen:

This is just my newbie perception of these tires, I'm sure, but you have to keep in mind that I've been riding the BB's great grandfather for the last decade and a half ('82 CB900F2) and these lowly "touring" tires have more contact area on the back tire alone than what my F2 has in total tire size. I am still just overwhelmed with the fact that tires like this even exist... :rockon:

Got mine done with the break-in service (dayum, that was expensive for an oil change) on Weds. afternoon. There is a test procedure that must be performed. It is a pass/fail test that determines the need of repair and/or replacement, according to my local Honda dealership technician. The proportioning valve is compressed by placing a jack under the caliper. A measurement is taken from the base of PCV piston to housing, this measurement is then rechecked in thirty minutes. If the distance has shortened during this time, you need the fix. No repair kits have been shipped from Honda. They will not be shipped until the dealers have determined that a repair is needed and place the order. Mine was not one of the bikes affected. The o-ring that is in question was manufactured .002mm oversize. Apparently this causes stiction that shouldn't be there and will not allow full and rapid return of the PCV which in turn allows a small amount of fluid to "wick" out of the valve. YMMV, but I doubt it... :mrgreen:

I see about a bajillion threads and references to tire pressure and the infamous and ongoing cupping joke :shock: but I don't see any real advice on what tire pressures are best for performance and/or tire life. Mutually exclusive... I'm sure, but... I am assuming that everyone has the same multi location info tags and recommendations that my '03 has...42 psi...no negotiation, no alternate info, no nothing but the 42psi reference. So my stupid flamebait question of the day (week, month, year...take your pick) is: What are the choices related to tire pressure running the stock Sportmax II Touring tires? Is anything below 42 going to cause heat related problems? I ain't the dainty little waif I used to be, so think about this from the standpoint of a 305 pound rider with the occasional passenger. The stealership had them pressured to 35psi according to what I discovered on day 2. Seemed fine and felt great but I pressured them on up to 42 just because the Honda owners manual says so and the frame tag says so and we all know that whatever is put into print at least twice is absolute gospel and cannot be refuted and is always correct. :bs: Right? Whats the real deal folks? Inquiring minds and all that.... :mrgreen:

Exact same with my bike. Louder than the slip-ons but not obnoxiously so...a lot quieter than the V&H Supersport system I've got on my CB900F. Perfect sound IMHO.