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RXX

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Posts posted by RXX

  1. The front rotor bolts torque to 14 ft/lbs. The rear rotor torques to 31 ft/lbs. I use blue (medium strength) loctite. The red stuff is permanent. The torques are shown on the front and rear wheel pages in the Honda manual.

    Well, duh.....I guess I should have looked in the wheel section for information on FUCKING BRAKES!!

    FWIW, the red may be permanent, but the screws came right out. I will install tomorrow. Thanks so much guys.

  2. I am about to replace rotors, but can't find the torque values in the service manual. Any help?

    Also, there was RED loc tite on the old one. Think BLUE (medium) will do OK?

    Thanks for your help!

    By the way, I checked the thickness by using my dad's micrometer I inherited. Never used it before, and I assure you, it was a very very special time for me.

    '

    Miss you, Dad!

  3. Philip wrote:

    How the HELL do some of you guys get 9,000 miles out of a set?

    Philip, they air the tires up to max (42psi), never get the engine RPM over about 5K, and do a lot of coasting to a stop.

    Fuck that! I guess their brakes last longer too, huh?

  4. I got Metzler M3's last June, the rear showed cord at 5K, and the front is starting to get thin on the edges. I have not been abke to do much more than 5K on any set I have ever gotten. I think I am going with the Z6 combo this week. How the HELL do some of you guys get 9,000 miles out of a set?

    post-1606-1169114492_thumb.jpg

    post-1606-1169114511_thumb.jpg

  5. I installed mine last winter and never got it to fire up. All the diagnostics point toward the control switches, but I cannot find how to diagnose it. If any of you guys have one installed, and are using the speedo sensor, please let me know what your DIP switches are set to.

    Also, if anyone will loan me a control, I would like to swap it out for a few days.

    Otherwise, I am greedily eyeing all that real estate the servo is setting in under the cowl. I could put a kegerator or something in that hole.

    Thanks for the input!!

  6. Do I start at the very beginning of the stuff, or do I have to filter each component separately? The buzz from any and all of my electronics is annoying. Any electronic help will be appreciated!

    I assume you mean the ground loop hum you hear from your mp3 player, radar detector, or gps being plugged in to the bikes 12v power?

    Yes. It has been noticeable from the get go, I got a filter from autocom and it didn't seem to help much. I TRIED to keep wires from sources of interference, but maybe I did not do a great job. I may try a filter going into my new fuse block, but am unsure what kind of filter to get.

    I have radar detector, satellite radio, MP3 player and phone all hooked into the autocom. When they are all unplugged, the noise is still there, so am I correct in assuming it is in the autocom itself?

  7. I have a chance to buy a new Autocom for a good price but have a quick question.

    If I understand correctly, the Autocom unit is basically a PA system and to communicate with other bikes you need to buy a FRS/GMRS communicator. Where do you guys mount the walkie??

    Also, is it really that much better than say a Chatterbox, since that system is a PA and FRS/GMRS all in one.

    Yeah, if you are gonna do bike to bike, you need a set of communicators. The company seems to have a relationship w/ Kenwood, I think they are more integrated than others. (I think)

    I do not have BTB capabilities on mine, since no one will talk to me, what's the point? BUT if other bike has Autocom and a compatible cell phone, you could conceivably use them as BTB's....my phone works pretty well for incoming calls, even over mp3 or satellite radio. I have to use some hand to make outgoing, so it is a little cumbersome at this point.

  8. http://www.ventura-bike.com/

    http://www.oxprod.com/index.php?pg=67&...19f0ff4ee7b90b4

    I've got some of each. Doug (Oldgeezer) has New Enough I think. He likes his.

    Pros...they are pretty cheap, hold shitloads of stuff and don't rattle

    Cons.....very uncool to the shiny paint job crowd, hard to lock or secure to bike. Kind of a pain in the ass to mount & dismount.

    And I am sure there are more for each column.

  9. I am currently running:

    HID low beam (stays OFF except after dark)

    Stock high beam with modulator (stays ON except after dark)

    Audiovox electronic cruise control

    Sirius satellite radio

    AutoCom intercom system

    Beltronics detector (with digital voltage meter)

    Stock front, rear LED turn signals with modulator

    Pro-oiler

    Ipod 30 gig MP3

    Widder heated gloves

    Widder heated vest

    Widder arm chaps

    At anything above a dead idle, I consistently get 13.5+ volts on the system. At speed it is always over 14V

    At idle it dips to about 11.8V

    I trickle charge my battery every few weeks just to be safe, and I am on the same battery that came with the bike at 2500 miles (so I think it is the stock one) 7 years and 22K on one isn't too shabby?

    If you are installing Hellas to be noticed, save your time. A cheap (80bucks or so) modulator hooked to high beam will beat that hands down.

    The HID is I believe the single most important mod anyone can make to their bike if they ride at night (given it is aimed correctly)

  10. I got gloves last year. They are really neat and help a bunch. I just got a vest for Christmas and arm chaps. Then the next week, leg chaps for birthday.

    My problem is the controller. It seems the coil is on the wrong side of the box. Where are you guys putting the controller itself? It doesn't seem to fit well wherever I put it.

    Any hints overall about the units?

  11. Last winter I cut the helmet tab off flush then got some plumber's strap, painted it black, and tapped into the frame. I wrapped this around the reservoir. It is not hard to fill up. I ran the vent hose up to the rear of the frame, a couple of inches above the level of the res.

    You really really should solder every connex on the bike.

  12. Where is the easiest access to speed sensor wire to tap into, what color, etc? Anyone knows? It is 2002, btw. Thanks.

    My manual is for a 97-98. The speed sensor is on top of the gear box right near the coolant reservoir. You have to lift the gas tank to access the top of the gear box.

    +1....I have tapped into the wire for 2 applications, the pro-oiler and my cruise control. It comes straight up from the tranny. (99 bird)

  13. Do any of you guys use these doohickeys? They are craftsamn hex sockets. You can put them on your crdless drill and take all the bolts off your plastics in seconds! the great thing is you can put your drill's torque setting on when putting them on and know they are all at the same setting.

    Makes anything that requires plastic removal a ton easier.

    post-1606-1164411578.jpg

  14. I have an old Craftsman leaf blower sitting in my shop. It is one of those hand held 205 MPH 2 stroke jobs. Think it would do the trick??? It is black, and I could get probably 20 minutes out of a tank. Would it hurt to run it full throttle even when the bike is idling?

    Any ideas?

  15. Hey, Mr Clean......

    Would you please post some photos of the meticulous handiwork under your seat???

    I am especially interested in your gang box and IPod voltage source.

    Unless, of course it is proprietary..

    Thanks so much,

    Philip

  16. Brett, thanks! I pushed the contact side into the buss bar first. Maybe that's the problem. I will reverse the order this evening. Dion, thanks, but I did factor in stress placed by the wire...not a factor.

    As far as being careful, I work sober around that kind of amperage.

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