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Posts posted by RXX
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I am about to replace rotors, but can't find the torque values in the service manual. Any help?
Also, there was RED loc tite on the old one. Think BLUE (medium) will do OK?
Thanks for your help!
By the way, I checked the thickness by using my dad's micrometer I inherited. Never used it before, and I assure you, it was a very very special time for me.
'
Miss you, Dad!
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Philip wrote:
How the HELL do some of you guys get 9,000 miles out of a set?Philip, they air the tires up to max (42psi), never get the engine RPM over about 5K, and do a lot of coasting to a stop.
Fuck that! I guess their brakes last longer too, huh?
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I installed mine last winter and never got it to fire up. All the diagnostics point toward the control switches, but I cannot find how to diagnose it. If any of you guys have one installed, and are using the speedo sensor, please let me know what your DIP switches are set to.
Also, if anyone will loan me a control, I would like to swap it out for a few days.
Otherwise, I am greedily eyeing all that real estate the servo is setting in under the cowl. I could put a kegerator or something in that hole.
Thanks for the input!!
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Do I start at the very beginning of the stuff, or do I have to filter each component separately? The buzz from any and all of my electronics is annoying. Any electronic help will be appreciated!
I assume you mean the ground loop hum you hear from your mp3 player, radar detector, or gps being plugged in to the bikes 12v power?
Yes. It has been noticeable from the get go, I got a filter from autocom and it didn't seem to help much. I TRIED to keep wires from sources of interference, but maybe I did not do a great job. I may try a filter going into my new fuse block, but am unsure what kind of filter to get.
I have radar detector, satellite radio, MP3 player and phone all hooked into the autocom. When they are all unplugged, the noise is still there, so am I correct in assuming it is in the autocom itself?
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Do I start at the very beginning of the stuff, or do I have to filter each component separately? The buzz from any and all of my electronics is annoying. Any electronic help will be appreciated!
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I have a chance to buy a new Autocom for a good price but have a quick question.
If I understand correctly, the Autocom unit is basically a PA system and to communicate with other bikes you need to buy a FRS/GMRS communicator. Where do you guys mount the walkie??
Also, is it really that much better than say a Chatterbox, since that system is a PA and FRS/GMRS all in one.
Yeah, if you are gonna do bike to bike, you need a set of communicators. The company seems to have a relationship w/ Kenwood, I think they are more integrated than others. (I think)
I do not have BTB capabilities on mine, since no one will talk to me, what's the point? BUT if other bike has Autocom and a compatible cell phone, you could conceivably use them as BTB's....my phone works pretty well for incoming calls, even over mp3 or satellite radio. I have to use some hand to make outgoing, so it is a little cumbersome at this point.
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http://www.oxprod.com/index.php?pg=67&...19f0ff4ee7b90b4
I've got some of each. Doug (Oldgeezer) has New Enough I think. He likes his.
Pros...they are pretty cheap, hold shitloads of stuff and don't rattle
Cons.....very uncool to the shiny paint job crowd, hard to lock or secure to bike. Kind of a pain in the ass to mount & dismount.
And I am sure there are more for each column.
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I am currently running:
HID low beam (stays OFF except after dark)
Stock high beam with modulator (stays ON except after dark)
Audiovox electronic cruise control
Sirius satellite radio
AutoCom intercom system
Beltronics detector (with digital voltage meter)
Stock front, rear LED turn signals with modulator
Pro-oiler
Ipod 30 gig MP3
Widder heated gloves
Widder heated vest
Widder arm chaps
At anything above a dead idle, I consistently get 13.5+ volts on the system. At speed it is always over 14V
At idle it dips to about 11.8V
I trickle charge my battery every few weeks just to be safe, and I am on the same battery that came with the bike at 2500 miles (so I think it is the stock one) 7 years and 22K on one isn't too shabby?
If you are installing Hellas to be noticed, save your time. A cheap (80bucks or so) modulator hooked to high beam will beat that hands down.
The HID is I believe the single most important mod anyone can make to their bike if they ride at night (given it is aimed correctly)
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I got gloves last year. They are really neat and help a bunch. I just got a vest for Christmas and arm chaps. Then the next week, leg chaps for birthday.
My problem is the controller. It seems the coil is on the wrong side of the box. Where are you guys putting the controller itself? It doesn't seem to fit well wherever I put it.
Any hints overall about the units?
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I just broke the zipper on one of my Sidi Strada's the other day. Warrantied for life, but local shoe shop (Logan's Magic on Western Avenue for Vern & Demon....he rides daily btw) is repairing for $13.00, about the price of shipping.
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Last winter I cut the helmet tab off flush then got some plumber's strap, painted it black, and tapped into the frame. I wrapped this around the reservoir. It is not hard to fill up. I ran the vent hose up to the rear of the frame, a couple of inches above the level of the res.
You really really should solder every connex on the bike.
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Where is the easiest access to speed sensor wire to tap into, what color, etc? Anyone knows? It is 2002, btw. Thanks.
My manual is for a 97-98. The speed sensor is on top of the gear box right near the coolant reservoir. You have to lift the gas tank to access the top of the gear box.
+1....I have tapped into the wire for 2 applications, the pro-oiler and my cruise control. It comes straight up from the tranny. (99 bird)
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Harbor Freight. Get a whole set when they're on sale.
SWEET! I just got the 2 sizes I needed to remove the fairings, would be cool to have a whole set!
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Do any of you guys use these doohickeys? They are craftsamn hex sockets. You can put them on your crdless drill and take all the bolts off your plastics in seconds! the great thing is you can put your drill's torque setting on when putting them on and know they are all at the same setting.
Makes anything that requires plastic removal a ton easier.
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Once a year for me, whether I need it or not. Owner's manual says 8K, I'm good with taht. My Mini says every 15,000. Too long, I say.
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I took my tank off for 2 months last winter with petrol in it. Left it outside on a trailer, upside down, with saran wrap rubber banded to the tubing. Didn't have any problems.
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Just a question... are they any better or just way cooler looking?
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C'mon, dudes, just tryin' to lighten things up a bit.
Fuck like I need more speed!
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I have an old Craftsman leaf blower sitting in my shop. It is one of those hand held 205 MPH 2 stroke jobs. Think it would do the trick??? It is black, and I could get probably 20 minutes out of a tank. Would it hurt to run it full throttle even when the bike is idling?
Any ideas?
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Hey, Mr Clean......
Would you please post some photos of the meticulous handiwork under your seat???
I am especially interested in your gang box and IPod voltage source.
Unless, of course it is proprietary..
Thanks so much,
Philip
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I bought a set of Metzler M3's from Cycle Gear last spring, they had recently been introduced and the dealerships did not have them yet.
But it is always a good idea to check the BOD.
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Brett, thanks! I pushed the contact side into the buss bar first. Maybe that's the problem. I will reverse the order this evening. Dion, thanks, but I did factor in stress placed by the wire...not a factor.
As far as being careful, I work sober around that kind of amperage.
Brake rotor torque values....HELP!!
in The Garage
Posted
Well, duh.....I guess I should have looked in the wheel section for information on FUCKING BRAKES!!
FWIW, the red may be permanent, but the screws came right out. I will install tomorrow. Thanks so much guys.