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Posts posted by blackhawkxx
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All I know for sure is that I still remember the days of breaker points/coil ignition systems, leaded gasoline, and all the PITA changing/cleaning of plugs every 2000 miles or so, and resetting the timing and points gaps, and I don't miss a bit of it. With modern electronic ignitions, plug gap is certainly less critical, and if the plug gap is close, I wouldn't mess with it.
True but I also remember buying a brand new car for $5,000.
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so I've changed the oil out again today, Getting pretty good with this now... lol
Are you pulling the forks each time or are you draining from the bottom?
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Has anyone tried it?
Yea, Buel.
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plus they give a discount to forum members.
A Yamaha dealership gives discounts to a Honda forum members? If so, great :!:
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You have an accelerator pump circuit to take care of that very thing
So the Bird does have accelerator pumps like a Holley? Twist the grip and it shoots fuel in even with the motor off?
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The only thing that would really bug me would be water in the cylinders.
Salt water, no way.
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I frequent a pleasant outdoor dinging restaurant over there and the frowns on the faces of the patrons (can you say rich and influential) as another herd of flatulant bikes go by and stop all conversation has to be seen to be believed.
Why are bikes not treated like cars when it comes to noise? If run around with a big hole in your car's muffler, you will get a ticket. I often wonder that when a hardly comes past the house shaking the picture on my wall.
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I store my spare tire around my stomach. :wink:
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Just ask Alphabird. Ah, nevermind, old board humor.
Yea, I remember that.
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I have modified a set of Yoshi's for my bike
So, just how do they come apart? Can you just take the four screws from the end of the can and the tailpiece come off or do you have to take all of the screws out and the cover slides off? If you take the cover off, is it hard to get back on with the packing and all?
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Some don't need drilled, they are already the right size. I have a early 97 and did need drilled. Runs great :!:
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I like the Hondas because there is a guy on Ebay that sells em for 5 for $15 + $4 shipping
Yea, let us know. Both of my bike uses the same filter and that would be alot cheaper. Just warn him, he might get swamped.
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I have heard that new corvetts come from the factory with Mobil 1 in them. So, maybe the slick oil don't harm brake in.
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When I come home, I'll let it cool down alittle and take the plug out. I put the new oil filter on the seat and go in the house. The next day, I take the other bike to work. When I come home, I finish the oil change. I guess you can think of why I put the filter on the seat?
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1. How often should the chain need adjusting, I did mine 2 weeks ago and after about 300 miles it needs done again
Seems to me that there was quite a thread about after tighting the jam nuts on the chain adjusters, that if you didn't screw in or out (can't seem to remember which) the adjusters themselves, that the chain adjustment would change. Clear as mud, I know. Maybe Pete in Pa could shed of light on this.
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I have the same problem. I dropped the rear 1" with a lowering link and slipped the forks in the tubes about 1.25" - 1.5".
I have done this but only a inch in front. I have very little trouble with things dragging. On some bumps while leaned over it might drag but I have stock front springs. With firmer springs, I think it would be OK. And I am not a light weight.
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But I'm on a fixed budget...got to buy plastics (most of them were destroyed)
Then there's the paint job...
New plastics come with new paint.
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If you set up a connector to adapt the R1 R/R in advance, changing the part itself on the road would be a piece of cake.
Or, if you had a factory stock replacement part, it would also be a hunk of cake.
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Kawasaki did it by running small tubes inside the main ram air tubes that pressurize the float bowls.
Honda F-3 did the same thing but the tubes were not inside the ram air tubes. I don't think that it would be as easy as it sounds to get perfect.
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You must also pressurize the fuel bowls also or it will not work.
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While not being Joe either, I can't remember the brand of my stands but they have four wheels instead of two (per stand) and seems alot more steady than the two wheel units.
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Man, you sure have all the toys and bling. Yea, I have a front and rear stands but I had to buy mine used off of e-bay. Does your wife know about this?
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I bet a new front tire will fix that even if it is a Dunlop.
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If Soichiro Honda dropped out of the clouds and told me not to use full synthetic, I'd probably do what he said.
Only Joe would know how to spell Mr. Honda's name.
Fork air gap
in The Garage
Posted
So me being 225 lbs. with stock springs could reduce the air gap to help my front end?