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blackhawkxx

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Posts posted by blackhawkxx

  1. My son is a mechanic and uses only Snap On tools. The guys stops in all the time (son owes him many $$$'s). He might be able to get them replaced for you but there would be shipping involved.

  2. Only thing you need to worry about is the buckle swinging around when you slacken the strap, hitting the radiator. If you aren't planning on using it that day, just remove it altogether, IMO.

    I never take mine off but maybe it fits alittle different than yours. I don't want to keep taking the bolts in and out of the brakes.

    EDIT: Well, I just went out and looked at mine. It does not hit the rad with the bars straight like you would ride but if you go full lock (like locking the forks) it does hit. Yea, my rad is banged in some. Thanks for the heads up North. It has been on for two or three years.

  3. 500 watt halogen work lights-----lots of draw, and they put out a ton of heat

    I have one of those and almost never use it. It puts out so much heat, it's unbearable. I put up Flourescent lights (about $10 each) all over my garage and used with drop lights, don't need much else.

  4. Dropping the front shortens the radius arm of the front forks, and WILL significantly alter the steering head angle. Generally, anything more than a half degree of change from a stable setting is going to produce significant and potentially costly results.

    Joe, would this also apply if the rear was dropped the same amount?

  5. For looks, do what you may, for real benefit, raise the rear and stay away from fork straps on the street.

    Put a strap on it but leave it loose, when you get to your biker hangout, pull the strap tight. Loosen before you leave. Oh, don't forget to shorten your kickstand. :icon_wink:

  6. Wow, I always wanted to ride a bike with bars. I think it would take a while to rap my mind around holding the throttle wide open and dropping the clutch. :icon_eek:

    dyna shift light taged to auto shift the air shifter

    How do I wire my shift light to trip my air shifter? Thanks.

  7. You'll be tuning regardless of which way you go.

    Not always. I have K&N, Dyno Jet and Yosh slip-ons and I did mine one time and it seems perfect. Sometimes it is better to be lucky than good. :icon_biggrin:

  8. When I had my stock suspension setup, before I shimed my front fork springs and cranked up my rear preload I used to drag my fairing right after my feelers hit. Now it is a badge of honor, but some don't like to scratch their fairing.

    I have scraped my fairing before hitting the feelers! I don't like that much.

  9. I am one down in front and one up in the rear (46). I wanted to try 47 rear in the last group buy but it didn't work out. With a stock front and one up in the rear, I don't think that you would be able to tell the difference. It is hard to get steel rear sprockets. If you want to go more than one tooth, I think it would be better to just do the front and it is cheaper also. If I rode long trips, I would leave it stock, I don't.

  10. Half the work is taking off the front wheel, take out the bolt in the bottom of the fork leg, take off the cap and yank out the cartridge. (its messy but not hard)

    If you jacked up your bike so the front tire just touched the ground, couldn't you just slide the axle out without removing the wheel?

  11. The Harbor Freight tire changer will be $39.99 and the motorcycle adapter will be $29.99 on March 1st till March 13th.

    Harbor Freight always had free shipping on anything over $50. The last catalog that I looked at, it didn't seem to be this way anymore. I have gotten a good bit of stuff from them over the years, even a 4x8 trailer which had free shipping.

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