blackhawkxx
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Posts posted by blackhawkxx
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They treated me pretty good after they screwed up. They sent my order to the wrong address. When they found out, they air mailed it to me (at a cost of $28 to them) and wavied the $7 shipping cost to me. I guess it took about a week and a half to get to me. I guess it would have been better for them not to mess up the order but it did save me $7.00.
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and crew for my uncle's top fuel Harley( my new ride for next season)The monster I'm building now, a Busa.
Do I understand right? You are going to race a top fuel harley and a busa?
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If there is no penalty for running bars, then bars are the way to go
Man, I always wanted to try that. I must be hard at first to crank it wide open and drop the clutch! ( Sorry for the highjack).
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Back to trying to find a lube I like.
Try PJ-1 blue label.
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Will WD-40 hurt the O rings?
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it's just that i don't give a fuck about drag racing and therefore have little experience or knowledge of the tricks of the trade.
If you build this thing and start going with him to the track to tune it, I think you will really start to get into drag racing. There is nothing like it.
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Ohlins
in The Garage
So how much difference does the Ohlins make out on the street? Does it just take the bumps better in a turn or is it all around smoother?
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and if I'm feeling frisky I bolt on the wheelie bars.
Don't you have to remove the shock and replace it with a solid bar? What times do you get with the bars?
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No, this is not normal for the XX. Are you sure that it is the gearbox and not the chain? Inspect the chain for tight links. Lube and adjust. Then, I would change the oil and filter. Try Mobil 1 15w-50 (red cap). It makes for smooth shifting.
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Brakes
in The Garage
If you are not using the rear brakes, you are not using all of the front brakes as the rear pedal activates one piston on each of the front calipers.
If you are wearing out the rears at 5K, you are not using your brakes correctlyTo be fair, I should have said that my bike had 5,000 miles on it when I got it and the rear pads were shot. Fronts are still good.
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Brakes
in The Garage
I don't know of anyone who's worn out a rear set,Mine were shot at 5,000 miles. Fronts last almost three times that long.
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65 bucks thru ChaparralMotorsports.com
I found this in there catalog but couldn't pull it up on there web site (which sucks).
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brake components were not designed to be powder coated or polished
How could polishing hurt them?
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Price: $48.27
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I myself prefer to take the tank off. Gives you more room to look around. You could also throw in some new spark plugs while you are there.
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Would you compare it to turning up the timing in a old carbed muscle car? If so, it would feel a little crisper, snappier. Not night and day just better. Right?
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Dah-Thanks Peter. Sometime you can't see the forest for the trees.
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What gas do you run and any pinging?
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41241-MAT-000 are the individual rubbers.......'bout $10 each.
06410-MAT-E00 is the set of 4.........$32 from ronayers.
Joe, how did you find the package deal for $32.00 at ronayers? Do they also have deals like this on other multi parts?
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Well, did you ride it yet?
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How about if you shimmed the back 3 mm and dropped the front 3 mm's?
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I went to Home Depot, but didn't find a good washer...
Sometimes I can be so fricken helpless. LOL
You can get girls naked and take pictures to post here but can't find a washer to slip under your shock? :roll: :grin:
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just tape the ends of all the hooks closed after strapping down the bike
That's a good idea :idea:
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That is what I used on my trailer without the rubber insert. It gets used weekly without any trouble. I have never tried them in the truck bed though.
Why use 95 rr shock why not 954
in The Garage
Posted
$27 shipping! WOW. A little over the top don't you think?