blackhawkxx
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Posts posted by blackhawkxx
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The rear shock linkage has dust seals that stop the dirt and water. When I took my 97 apart, it still looked clean and lubed inside.
I have lowered mine with a Pro-Tek link which has bronze (I think, maybe brass, but I doubt it...) bushings which would also benefit from periodic lubing.Those will always bind because there is no place for the grease to stay. I know because that is what I had until I had the link machined out and the factory bearings pressed in.
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are there any cons in doing the 6mm shim
It will make your bike taller therefor harder to launch at the drag strip therefor giving you higher sixty foot times making you look as tho you do not know how to launch a bike and if you are short, you might fall over costing you thousands of dollars to replace all the body work and the cost of you taking time off of work to heal your broken toe that the bike fell on. That's all. :icon_think:
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What is in back of the big black square in the photo?
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It's not a necessity, but I still remove both lowers when changing oil. It keeps everything cleaner, and makes it easier to check for leaks afterward.
Anal Retentive?
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GL 1500 is also the same.
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Nice but not cheap.
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4.7mm from the fork seal to the clamp
Are you sure that you are not looking at the rock guard part and not the dust seal?
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Don't forget that when you lower it, the sidestand don't work too well.
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It's hard to find a steel rear sprocket with more teeth and if you do, they cost way more than the front.
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Don't worry about it.
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Raise the rear.
That's what I tell the Mrs.
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Never had a lick of trouble with my carbs and I don't get those silly F.I. lights either.
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I know that they use them in big trucks but I don't know about bikes. Let us know how they work out.
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I could see everyone having a point if you could adjust the preload in the front, but it's fixed.
How do you think people change the sag?
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For those of you with polished aluminum wheels and other parts, do you wax them or not? Sometimes, I think it makes the shine duller but I'm not sure.
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unless you're particularly fond of the dual pipes
Many people are myself included. It just looks right.
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I took it for a ride today. They feel much better to me. I had my riding boots on, they might not be so good with work type cleatted boots though. It was nice out today.
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how's it feel
Not sure, by the time I was done messing around, it was midnight and raining.
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I wanted to lower my pegs for my knees but didn't want the pegs to be lower to the ground for riding. Seeing how the buell pegs do not have rubber on them, I thought I would try the XX pegs without rubber. I cut out aluminum plate and bolted it on with alittle lock-tight. I did not change the peg at all so if I don't like it, two bolts, and the rubber is back on. It is now 1/2 inch lower. I didn't try it yet. What do you think?
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Most break due to improper use
Not me. I was peening the rivet. On the second rivet just when I got to where it should be, SNAP!!! The link was perfect but that was the first and only time that it was used. They did replace the broken part though.
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The lowest that works is the most efficient.
Is there any scientific data that I could read on this?
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If I have to bet, I would bet the stock R/R with a metal back dissipates heat better
as it has the whole frame as cooling fin.
That is a good point.
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Here is some sprockets also:http://secure.mycart.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=2317931&showprevnext=1
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Without a doubt, the 18 front is the cheapest way and if you don't like it, you are only out about $30. Why the worry about the correct speed. I rarely even look at mine.
May become a common problem FPR
in The Garage
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