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blackhawkxx

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Posts posted by blackhawkxx

  1. If you read the report that I posted... IN THE THREAD... you'll see that while you can't "hurt" the engine by changing it too much, you DEFINATELY cause substantially more wear by changing it too much!

    I read it now, OK? I am no youngster and never had a oil related engine problem on any vehicle in my life. If it ain't broke....

    PS-I did buy a chevy truck once (never again) and when I was changing the vavle cover gaskets, there must have been a full half inch of sludge in there. I guess the previous owner must have read your thread.

  2. This is obviously slightly different for bikes with the clutch and trans using engine oil

    Right, anyone that runs the bike at the strip, slipping the clutch at 4-5,000 rpm's, just think of the clutch material that must be in the oil. One thing for sure, you can't hurt your motor by changing the oil too much.

  3. Asking others, I've been told o-ring and x-ring chains don't need "lube" because the individual links are sealed roller bearings which negates most all of the friction that "lube" protects against.

    I always read this in the magazines but it doesn't seem to be the opinion here. They said that the lube one puts on is just so the chain don't rust. I don't think that the magazine guys ride their own bikes so they don't worry about it.

  4. When it turned green he left me like I was sucking on Nyquil.

    There are v-rods that run at my track. They do leave hard because (1- they do have good torque (2- they are so long and heavy that the front end just don't come up plus they are just easier to launch. After 100 feet or so, you should be able to go right by.

    When I put my 16 on, it felt like I was riding around in 5th gear while in 6th.

  5. SEriosly though, could it be I need to adjust the screws out further?

    Could the carbs be out of sync? Would that cause it?

    I don't think that adjusting the screws out would help with the sputtering. Do the carbs run great after 3,500? Are you at a high elevation? A carb sync might be a good place to start. Something must be off because (no kidding) mine is a smooth as silk.

  6. I installed the dynojet kit in my 97XX a few years ago. Followed their recommendations.

    Pilot screws out 2 1/2 turns. The engine runs a bit rough to about 3500 rpm and then smooths out. I have tried adjusting a few times since then, but never could remove that sputter.

    Any suggestions?

    You must have messed up and got the "liberal, left wing kit" because my Dynojet set-up runs smooth as silk. :icon_biggrin:

  7. What is the recommended tire pressure for drag racing

    I would start out at about 25 lbs rear and if you are spinning, work down from there.

    Is there a prefered brand or certain type of strap for the front? No

    Would it be worth the money to get a dog bone lowering link. Slam it at the track but be able to return it to its stock ( +6mm shimm) height when ready to actually ride the street again?

    There are problems with doing that but it can be done. You would have to change the kickstand every time. It's hard to load and unload the bike, it is alittle work going up and down every week and it cost some money.

    Finally should I order a new set of clutch plates? NO, they are tough. how tough are the XX stock clutchs? i know for every day use many riders say their clutches last 50,000 miles but at the strip and practicing for the strip is not normal conditions. Approx. how many passes on a clutch before its smoked?

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