Bunbun

Background -- yesterday I did the 32k mile maintenance and checked the valves. One was out of spec and 2 were at the far spectrum so I figured I'd go ahead and shim all 3. Pulled the cams, put in the shims and put everything back together. Put the fuel tank back on and started the bike. Well, the started works, and if I gave it gas it kind sounded like it wanted to fire here and there but nothing. I checked all connections and electrical doodads and I'd hooked everything else up correctly. That left a big question mark for the cams. So I left it last night, thoroughly pissed off and attacked it again this morning. I pulled everything apart again and the cams were basically one tooth farther back on the timing belt than they should have been. Currently it's at TDC and the way the bird's cams are, there is a notch on the sprocket you have to align with the cylinder head. After re-removal it looks like I had the marking one cam chanin link too high. (the IN mark was above the cylinder head, not directly one it) This could conceivably make the bike not start, but I'd think one link would just make it run like ass-- what do you guys say? Is this my problem or is the following question my problem? Additionally, and this is my BIG question, I'm now second guessing myself on the proper positioning of the crank when I removed everything. There are basically two positions for TDC when in relation to the cams right? One where the cam markings face each other and one where they face away from each other. I'm second guessing myself now on "did I have it in the right place when I removed the cams the FIRST time?" Is there ANY way to tell which is the 'CORRECT' TDC? Everything I know says it doesn't matter cause the cams define in and exhaust, but the book specifically said 'make sure the marks are facing out'. And like a retard, I can't remember if I did that or not. I assume I did, but then my bike isn't working so who the hell knows Please help me before I torch this fucking bike and the damn valve cover gasket that never seats. Bun

and if by some cataclysmic event nobody else wanted it and Hank decided not to, I'll buy it. Bun

Another vote for the ZVM2 here. I had 17k on the OEM and i've got ~16k on the ZVM2. Only reason I've needed to adjust it is cause of a few tire changes. Hasn't actually stretched much if any that I can tell. Bun

mesmerizing boobies.... oh wait.. watch. Boobies. wrist watch.... avatar boobies. Read text... watch boobies. click on picture. Watch boobies. I've said it once and I'll say it again, it takes me 3 or 4 times as long to read a thread when you post in it. Bun

well... I read up on the ECU, the error codes and all that good stuff went outside and put the bike on the side stand and cranked it up. No more FI light. I don't know whether to be bothered by that or happy. In retrospect, I think part of the problem might have been that I washed the bike about 10-20 minutes earlier. I can't help but wonder if some water didn't get in somewhere and possibly short something...? Ah well, just gonna have to keep an eye on it and see what happens. Argh. Bun

So I finally finished up my HID light conversion (holy crap) and installing the stebel nautilus. The horn kicks some serious ass, although I was hoping for a lower pitch. I'm happy with it though! The lights are absolutely unreal. Went to the store for the maiden voyage a few minutes ago and on the way back I noticed that my FI light was staring at me. Bike is running fine (btw, it's a 2002, not a 'known issue' year if I read correctly). I don't think it was on when I left the house, but I'm not 100% certain. I'm hoping I just fucked around and knocked something loose. I hope. Anyone ever do either the HID conversion or the nautilus and mysteriously have their FI light come on? I don't really know wtf it means. And I think my fan was on all the time too.... I really fucking hate electrical shit. Any hints or ideas? Bun

May as well get a free oil change out of the deal too. I certainly would. Good to hear they aren't going to shirk responsibility. Bun

For me 1st to second is kinda chunky and 2nd to third isn't too bad. Beyond that it's pretty smooth though. I guess teh 1st to 2nd has a relatively long throw from most other bikes I can think of, but it's been a while since I've ridden anything else so I guess my comparisons aren't all that great at the moment. Bun

I did the same thing with the same reasoning. Glad I did too-- my GF bought a bike from a friend in NY and rode it back, but the rear tire got trashed. Shipped my 'spare' up and got it changed it out with relatively little delay and expense. Bun

Yeah, the handlebar lever. I actually haven't tried it with the clutch in oddly enough, although in retrospect I should have done that probably immediately considering I thought it was a clutch issue. And yeah, I'm kinda puzzled... nothing engaged so why the noise? I haven't really listened for a tinkling sound (like piss on concrete? ) and by that I assume you mean like broken glass being shaken? It does give a kinda 'brrrrrrp' sound though. I'll check it when I get on to go home. I'll look into the CCT thing tho -- pretty cheap, easy (right?) and it's not going to hurt anything. I'll also see if I can't narrow it down more. EDIT: Looked around and researched the CCT issue and I think that could be it. Gonna get one and swap it out regardless. Thanks! Bun

'02 XX 30k miles Synthetic So lately I've noticed a really odd sound coming from around where the clutch is but I can't really narrow it down other than on the right side of the bike down around the dipstick. At idle everything sounds great and the bike runs great, however if I pop the throttle when the bike is idling and in neutral, it makes a sound like a slipping clutch. Without the clutch lever being in. It's very brief and lasts only a part of a second. Additionally, if I roll it on (even kinda quickly) instead of smack it open it doesn't make the sound. Any idea what the problem could be? I've adjusted the clutch bar a tad both in and out and it hasn't really made a difference, but I may not have moved it enough -- think that could be it or is it something more innocuous? Bun

I have tried quite a few different chain lubes and I always come back to the Honda chain lube in the red can. Don't think I'll ever try anything else now.... Bun

I've been contemplating Oval Staintunes personally. I like that you can kinda adjust the sound output. They are a hell of a lot lighter than stock cans and aren't that much louder. Their claims of extra horses right out of the box may or may not be true but I'm more interested in the weight savings and the secondaryh extra horses would be cool. Oh, and I second the D&D comments. If you don't want eardrums, grab a pair, otherwise don't get near 'em. Bun

holy shit... I thought I was a cheap bastard. Thanks for makin' me feel better Pete! Bun

I am currently running the new Avon Storms and I gotta say I absolutely love them. I used to use the Azaros and was disappointed when they went away, however their replacement kicks ass. I threw on a new pair one in the middle of June, went to SD and back (~2800 miles of slab with 3 full cases) and spent about 600 miles up there in the twisties. I've put on an additional 500 or so miles of twisty/ slab commuting and and probably have a good 3000 miles left on the tires. I'm up not too far from you and the chip seal usually netted me 5-6k per rear. I'm looking at an easy 7k miles, possibly more with these. And the great thing is they are REALLY confidence inspiring. I am a pretty aggressive twisties rider (pretty much edge to edge on the rear) and have not had it even begin to think about slipping to stepping out. The only reason I give the above is for reference to the 208s. I ran one on my ZZR. Fucking hated it. I'll probably never even try a dunlop again (unless a bunch of ppl completely rave about a set) simply because it sucked so bad. Bun

I dunno, it looks pretty trashed to me. Really flattened out and the return side is really fuxxored. But still, 82K is pretty impressive -- I certainly wouldn't have left it on that long, but then again I'm so unbelievably anal about that kinda thing its unreal. Bun

I just threw a set of them on and I absolutely love them so far. Granted I don't have many miles on them yet, however they beat the Azaros in my opinion. Even after about 60 miles, I felt comfortable enough to start railing in the twisties. Even before they were, what I would call, "properly scrubbed in" they were fantastic for some pretty hard riding. Turn in is unreal, but then again it usually is with a new front. It is noticably faster than the Azaro and comparable, maybe even more than the Venom I had on the front previously. Getting ready to take a 4k + mile trip, so we'll see how mileage is after that. Bun

Depends on the riding I'm doing at the time. Commuting is 38f/ 42r, twisties is 36f/38r and all day slabbing is 42f/44r. Avon azaro/ Venom and soon-to-be a set of Avon Storms. I'm 190-195 w/o gear. Gear, daily luggage and whatnot probably tacks on an extra 50lbs or so. Bun

Yes actually, I've seen it. Birdrunner on STN came down from Canada (eh?) and had one of those Unigo trailers hooked up to his bird. It was actually quite cool and looked like it would hold a lot of crap. I'm pretty sure he's on here but you can reach him over on "the other forum" pretty easily. Bun

My opinion is "If it works well, don't fuck with it." Bun

I put on a new chain and sprockets on saturday. I grabbed the renthal sprockets and to be honest, I can barely even tell a difference on the non-rubber front vs. the rubber front. There is a TAD more vibration at lower speeds but its negligible at best. The rear is a light gold and its pretty light. Also got the DIDZVM chain. I only put on about 250 miles yesterday so I can't really say much about the chain, but the front feels pretty good. I'd definitely like better gas mileage too and I wish I had thought of it before I ordered the sprockets... Argh. ~35 mpg kinda sucks on this bike. I need my 40+ Bun

So I was riding around today and noticed that decelerating from 40 to about 18mph, there is a really loud ticking coming from the front left of the bike. Whenever the clutch is engaged however, the ticking seems to stop. Its ONLY under deceleration and even seems to be louder in first than 2nd. Any ideas at what I'm lookin' at here? Bun

Has anyone removed the California emissions smog crap from an XX? If so, is it difficult/ time consuming and what all would I need to do? Thanks, Bun