AlphaBird
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Posts posted by AlphaBird
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Thanks for the compliments guys. Yes, I know I need some Ohlins on the front, preferably the USD ones. I did look into getting some RWU Ohlins for the XX that I saw but they are not made for the XX. The right way up units we see have been made in Japan under license from Ohlins, this is per an Ohlins email to me from Sweden. I guess if I keep the bike 2-3 more years or if the next Bird isn't something that I just gotta have I will go with some USD Ohlins.
H
Howie, 1000RR triples, Ohlins(or stock forks), wheel and brakes would fit. BTW the "new" Ohlins forks are a tad bit longer which "may" alow you to use stock bars--if not there are several types of riser bars. Cant wait to see it, cuz I know you will do it
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Id say about $1k sounds right--Its a popular motor for racing sidecars and some "mini" racecars
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I,m lucky if I get 1K out of a set of tires---Maybe this will help
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just would like to know what settings everone is running on the rear ohlins shock.also is there any one in the ohio area that can help me set the shock up not sure if sag is set correct. solo rider 200lbs in gear 25mm sag by my calculations 11mm preload rebound 14clicks compression 12clicks just not sure why my sag does not change when i adjust the preload settings. all settings are stock settings from ohlins thanks.
25mm is decent, and recommened for the track, but you may find 30mm a tad more comfortable for street riding. The stock comp/rebound settings are the best place to start. If you have shimmed the shock 6mm, and the bike is slow finishing a corner reduce the rebound, if the bike seems to be riding to harsh reduce the compression. Dont be shy about playing around with the adjusters to suit your riding style. Best to keep good records though.
Good Luck
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so shim rear, drop frint and ?
Defintely shim the rear 6mm--as covered before
Careful about dropping the front end as you will lose desparately needed ground clearance. I really dont think this is required if you shim the rear. Although relatively pricey a $430 respring/revalve would be money very well spent. My bike used to chatter something nasty really hard on the brakes--not the safest thing for emergency stops. At least do the front springs 1.1kgs sound about right for most
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Mine did 140HP, 80 ft-lbs stock the dyno used to be floating around--its an '02
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190s are designed to work on a 6" rim, not a 5.5", which comes standard on the Bird. You can squeeze a 190 on the 5.5", but it is not recommended. A 190 will change the handling a bit, but if you have done usual XX Suspension mods, raise the back, shock etc., you won't really notice a differenace. I am running a 190 with the new Marchesinis I put on and don't notice any difference in handling with respect to the tire profile. But I did notice a huge difference in turn-in due to the wieght diff. of the wheels.
Howie
Howie---you crack me up--Ive been pondering some $2,500 16.5" Marchesinis for the 1000RR racebike---and you got those suckers on your XX---are they Mags or Forged Al??? Regardless they look sweet--all ya need is some Ohlins on the front
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You need to verify that someone didnt change the dogbone---measure it and compare it to the stocker--I actually have one off the bike I could measure for you. If that is OK--you can screw with the preload
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FORKS
in The Garage
You could always put 1000RR forks/front end on it--better yet Ohlins they should be long enough--I actually have a extra set of Ohlins 929 forks, and stock 1000RR forks--prolly too short though--too bad I am so lazy these days
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From the "For What It's Worth Department"
If you are constantly that close to bottoming out your forks, (a common problem on the Blackbird) you really need to get some stiffer springs.
Thanx.
(Also, I was a bit surprized to get all that BS in the Tech [Garage] Forum.)
The horn is the first thing that the brace will bottom into--thats pretty funny---also verify that the bracket is turned the right way--I put mine on backwards once and had interesting clearance "issues"--if it on properly and it still hits--it would be easy to build a bracket that remounts the horn--I forgot what a PITA all those funky linked brake hoses and brackets are to deal with.
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If I had to guess, I would say its a 20kg--most Ohlins shocks for the XX are shipped with a 17kg--I think most of the guys are using 19ks--20 miight be tad stiff unless you do alot of 2-up riding---you can call Ohlins---they have a service center somewhere in the south, go to Ohlins.com--and find it---Jerry is the apps guy--hell have a chart for your weight bike--but I am almost certain its a 19kg if you weight 190-210(ish)--I changed my linkage so my 13kg spring would be of little help.
BTW--$89 is NO deal--Dan Kyle can get them for $100 brand new--Dan would also be able to verify the weight
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At $400+ DK is a steal for fork work. He has reworked both RC's with outstanding results. My XX has racetech internals and bumped spring all done by a local Honda tech I've known for 25yrs. They work OK but DK works much better.
The RC's forks are very close to what an Ohlins front end feels like without the extra $1500+ spent. Ohlins or Penske on the rear will make a huge difference and along with the forks will change the way the XX rides, like day and night. I run a Penske on the XX and an Ohlins on the RC. Both are head and tails above teh stock suspension.
Ditto--
4) He changes Springs--most use 1.1kgs, polishes the tubes to reduce friction, changes valving---bike handles incredibly better, I was having some pretty serious "chatter" issues with the stockers under heavy braking. I did the Ohlins on the rear because I like the Hydrualic preload---Best to get the proper spring for the rear too--NOt always the easiest thing to get--I think most run a 19kg w/the XX--Im running a 13kg--but my rear linkage is way differet
The best advice I could give anyone would be to have a pro with experience on YOUR bike do it $430 is cheap to have the piece of mind of a job done properly.
If it makes you feel any better, I threw $800 at the 1000RR's stockers in vain---only to spend another $2,200 on Ohlins which actually fixed all of the bikes woes--but thats a whole nuther story as if the Ohlins were available in the first place--I would have gone straight to those and never looked back---fuckin racebikes :cry: :cry:
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Although all of the AOD info above it all true and valuable, Take Note:
A word of warning---different bikes react somewhat differently---I would consult an expert on your bike first
For Example: "03 GSXR1---every meat head and their little brother---was jacking up the rear, and having serious stability issues---then some of thev really fast guys started flatenning them----they work much better "flat" due to the increased steering head angle inplemented in '03
Example 2: CBR1000RR---this bike also wants to be ridden very flat. Ken Hill helped me set mine up, riased the front forks 10mm from stock---who would have thought.
Example 3: the XX---seems to respond well to "conventional" rear raising--but I would high unrecomend lowering the front as the bike is already pretty gound clearnce challenged
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Sounds like your PC3 (namely the ground wire is loose)---check it--I had the same prob---the ECU and the PC3 were just bouncing around in the tail section as the rubber band thingy broke
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If I remember on the Ohlins for ours, mine, there is no length adjustment. However, the manual that comes with it states you can adjust it, but it lies.
Mine is adjustable---you can even do it on the bike--you'll need a 24mm open end wrench
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I know 954/929 front ends will go on a XX. EliXXir has done this. I think the RC 51 ones will too, but you'd have to get the upper tripple to make them fit. You'd need new front brake lines and the calipers for the 51. Of course de-linking is in order. You might need a new master cylinder for the front brakes as well cause you're gonna be pushing more pistons than stock. You might try Ron Ayers to check the bearings to see if they interchange, or have the same axle diameter for the rear wheel. Don't think the rear will fit though.
This is all correct---the issue is mounting he bars---as stock RC51 mounts wont clear the plastic
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Depends what kind of bike it is --many of my friends "burn-off" their trackday tires on the street---a DOT race tire will work fine--and even not at full temp--it delivers better traction than most "road tires".
I am not sure what you mean by "race tires"--on the track tires are either DOT Race or slicks---
BTW I run a 520 DID chain on the 1000RR racebike--it will be curious to see how long it lasts w/almost 160HP
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Or mail a copy to me (i'll have it the next day) and I'll scan and post it.
J.
I posted one a while ago---for an '02 140HP 80ft-lbs--Ill try to find it
ooops no a/f on it
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You ABSOLUTELY want hydraulic preload adj---as you can NOT get to the Penske very easly to adjust the preload, I can adju the Ohlins whilst riding it wouldnt be my first choice--chances are you need some pretty stiff front folk springs too
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Keep in mind he's also PCIII equipped, so that connector is bouncing around as well.......
Nahhhh-that wasnt attached to the ECU, and it was the primary suspect, I actually found the problem when I tried to velcro FOUND the problem whenst I was trying to velcro the PC3 to the ECU--, I was concerned that there was a broken wire or connector--but once I secured the ECU down all was good--sos I am thinking that maybe a connector was getting over bounced some how---regardless its all good now---
So id anyone has a funy problem like this ---check the really simple stuff first--ie the rubber bands---go figure :roll: :roll:
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Hi MidNitXX,
I paid $759.20 for the rear shock and spring with remote preload. I think this is slightly cheaper than Ohlins. I would also suggest you get the fork springs and 5 wt oil to go with the rear. Talk to them at 888-963-1212 and bargain a bit. The nice thing is that they will match the spring to the weights you ride with. I am not sure if the damping rates change for the weights you send in.
I am happy with this setup-especially the ease at changing preload and damping to suit either fast solo mountain riding or dual touring.
I am still playing the these settings but am pretty close to what I like.
Tim
I bought my Ohlins from Dan Kyle for $750 OTD---But make sure you order an 18kg + spring for it
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A while ago, I was experiencing a on-off issues with the ignition, back firing and generally running like it was fuel starved---WRONG--
THe rubber band that holds the ECU mounted above the tail light broke---sos the ECU was bouncing around whilst going over bumps causing the abherent behavior---fixed the rubber band all is well now---go figure---my only two issuses with that bike are ass-related
1) the seat latch fell off
2) the ECU rubber band broke---go figure
PS--I think Im keeping the bike---its just too much fun two-up
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Sounds awfully familiar---granted the 929 was beat pretty hard
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is it possible to reach 200mph without the turbo? :?:
No problem---just get a really little front sprocket and a really big rear
New Honda...
in The Garage
Posted
I just got the EU2000 for tirewarmers at the track--Its a pretty sweet little unit--and best of all its a Honda--and quiet which is a big deal when the things running in your pit all day during race season