pug

Repost I am finding it worrying that this image could summarize two topics in a row

Cause you like to sit on big round black things? Something like this?

+1000 in pretty much everything, this is a Honda not a Ducati

Do you run 42 psi fore and aft?

The shock on the XX (as with all monoshock bikes) works with gas (nitrogen) and oil and normally should be serviceable. If you get a bumpy ride, turn the rebound screw (on the bottom of the shock) a quarter of a turn clockwise. This will increase rebound damping, i.e it will make it slower when decompressing. Also it might make the bike slower during turn in. If you don't feel any difference, give it another quarter. Do not overdo it because you will end with a rear that stays packed (down). Whatever you do, do it in small steps and test it in a well known route. Also, remember to measure your rebound screw original position, i.e. how many turns out it is. If I remember well, std is 2 turns out. Whatever you do to the OEM shock, is not cmparable to good aftermarket unit, is a completely different world. However, the first thing I did with the BBird was to change front springs. P.S.: what's the mileage and the age of your XX?

A ZX 14 pehaps?

Can we have more details please?

TimXX and Helvet you might be able to answer me whether I can use a Hyperpro progressive spring on my WP shock. My shock has a remote preload as well, which requires a shorter than usual spring (I think my rear spring is 120mm instead of 150) in order to have enough room for the preload mechanism. However when I asked my 'friendly' shock shop about a Hyperpro spring, I was quoted that becaude of its special design (fully progressive) is longer and I would have to ditch the preload. Is that true?

Psst!! The mate who sold me my HID kit, sent me this diagramm to correct the flickering I noticed. The '85-87-86-30' is the relay you should use (very common). Although didn't have the time to try it on my bird, this should be sufficient.

I don't want to go into details, but the experience I had (and some of my friends) on dirt bikes few years ago with AFAM kits was not good, regarding chain's quality . If you gonna buy a DID chain buy it in its own package.

I just checked my OEM shock (which is sitting in a box) and..... no ball or heim joints,just needle bearings. :oops: However, I do remember that my WP shock -a much more expensive unit- has a ball (or whatever, anybody with a dirtbike knows what I mean) joint on the top. Hence my confusion...

Ok, maybe it is my fault regarding terminology and it is not called ball joint. It is not a ball joint like the one cars have in their steering arms anyway, but it is sphere with a hole in the middle where the bolt goes through. The sphere itself allows 360deg movement with pivot point its center. So, do you mean that the shock is rigidly mounted in both ends?

No side to side but up and down movement. Since the balljoint works in all 3 axes, if you put a big spanner in the r/wheel axle bolt (with the bike on the c/stand) and apply some force, you can see and feel swingarm movement. Notin a brand new shock, but after some mileage all the ball joints are creating some tolerance. If it is excessive it is time to replace the ball joint. The up and down some times can fool you. As far as the location of the b/joint I might get confused with my other bikes, but I will check it, still I remember it on the top.

This type of movement comes from the shock's ball joint in the upper mounting point.

I don't think that Pilot Powers are good for wet roads. From my experience my -now tired Powers- feel strange in the rain(mainly the rear), this is might be due to the less tread pattern which does not dispose as much water as other tires. I have the feeling that BT12R and BT14 are better in the rain. Also BT12SS are intended for lighter bikes.

Helvet, I think you mean complete set of front & rear springs, I bought the front ones for around 120 Euros here in Greece.

Have you thought about the BT 014? They should last longer than the 012 and they stick good for me. From my experience the BT 012r's were a better match for the Bird. Also the rear didn't cupped as bad as the 014 (which was useless after 2000 kms) Bear in mind that 015's are coming (already OEM in the 2006 ZX10R & ZX14). Now i am running Pilot Powers and I have noticed that they don't wear as muchc as the Bridgestones. After 4.5 Kms the rear has still 4mm tread (new is 6+) when the BT014 for the same mileage had less than 1mm.

How cold does it get in Greece in the winter? Seems like you should be able to run that 15/50 year-round. I mean your only talking a diference of 5 on the viscosity at start up. It gets close to 0 deg in Athens. I feel that the g/box works better with the 10W40 (especially in my daily 20km trips to work). For this and the reduced parasitic losses, I would like to use it all year round, but during summer temperatures can go up to 45 deg C, so I am not taking any chances.

I use Motul 300V, 10W40 for the winter, 15W50 for the summer. I am changing it just when it starts getting black. :shock:

FORD= Fixed Or Repaired Daily

Is this static sag or with you on the bird?

I've heard about your condition at work. It's called 'Gay bar blue bike blinded' :shock:

So, your clutch 'bites' better afterwards? Just check my avatar...... carefully

This is what I would do but openning the bleeder will make it easier to push the piston.

Alternatively, instead of removing the slave cylinder from the cover, you can open the clutch bleed nipple and push the piston with your thumb until it is closed. It will prevent paint damage if you attach a long hose to the bleeder to direct away the brake fluid that will leak. And because shit happens, have a bottle of water to wash out any b/fluid spill. When I remove the clutch cyl cover I always hold the piston with a longish tie-wrap. By the way, since you are there, did you clean the clutch shaft and the inside of the cover from the chain lube-debris mix?