pug

i believe exactly the opposite. The first springs I used were WP's rated at about 0.9 kg/mm (do not remember exactly) and the differences were marginal, i.e. no bottoming resistance, front end very nervous in panic stops. And all this before dropping the front (now the tr. clamp is 5mm lower) , shimming the rear (now its 4 mm ) and installing the 18kg/mm sprung WP shock at the rear. To my view the biggest drawback of the front is that it is undersprung, not overdamped. Now I use Hyperpro springs and I am on the other side of the moon. Yes I would like them to be a little softer but for as long as I am able, I prefer the aching arms over unstability. Of course as I said previously all these findings are subjective and at the end is all about personal preferences and riding conditions (and habits).

+1 Bigger air gap=softer smaller=harder Change oil weight, adjust air gap @ +- 140 mm. Also less air gap gives more bottoming resistance (which I experienced alot with OEM springs). Never go beyond manufacturer's specs while decreasing air gap 'cause hydraulic lock waits at the corner. Did you check fork oil specs I gave you last year (Dec 23rd ) http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...er=asc&start=40 If you have trouble reading the tech terms I might be able (or others in this forum) to help.

Here in Athens after heavy rain the roads are better because they get washed of dust e.t.c. (assuming that there are no strong winds after the rain). I think you used very light fork oil (2.5wt - am I right) and you don't have sufficient rebound damping. Personally last time I used WP 7.5 wt @ 140 mm (down from Silkolene 10 w)and although its more comfy over bumps sometimes its twitchy when I am off the throttle from high rpm with low gear. Anyway these are very subjective findings. Just remember that when you fill the forks with oil you have to bleed the cartridge (by moving it up and down) until you do not have any gap at all in compression & rebound. Then you adjust oil height.

Has anybody had problems whith the front brake switch? When I touch the lever, brake light works, but when I give it a handfull it doesn't. If I mpve the lever up some times it works. I took the lever off last evening and the button on the switch moves a bit. I used some contact spray but remains the same. Is it worth to open the switch? Has anybody done that? I admitt that the last weeks I cleaned the bike with HP cold water but...

Before the bowl air. after the bowl fuel. what kind of carbs are after,,,??? Who me? No carbs anymore, FI Bird. Generally: 2-strokes - its an airscrew 4-strokes - its a fuel screw At least this is what I have found in Mikunis, Keihins and Dellortos.

Without using the front brake! Another -fat- chance is that if the bike was crashed, the triple clamps are bent. This happens mostly in big crashes but you can't determine just by looking at them.

Before the bowl air. after the bowl fuel.

I think now we can discuss laminar flow, eddy vortices and then finish with flame front and flame propagation. :shock: By the way an experience I had with my car on a dyno. First run with the mods I had done to my car (different air intake to the airbox, higher rate injectors, K&N filter in stock air box, std ECU programm) and I get 122.5 hp. Next the so called 'tuner' guy, chips my ECU wjth a 'programm from Italy' and on the next run there is 2 hp less not to mention the cliff-like diagramm after P-max. They claim that this is because of the injectors- rich mixture (yeah they sniffed it) . So i remove the air filter and the airbox cover, only to lose another 1 hp. Slightly off-topic (regarding the car) but turbulent flow is a no-no. Also we should not forget that the airbox acts as the air reservoir for the engine. 'nough

Also do not forget that if there was water inside the cylinders and somebody tried to fire it up, the con-rods might ne bent due to hydraulic pressure. If the bike was submerged for days, I doubt that the ECU and the clocks are ok.

I was preparing a cross-check from the NGK catalogue, but he answered

Project cancelled. I might be able to open the unit but I know that it will be difficult to close it and seal it again properly. Also the leds I have are very big and it will be an ass to modify and fit them inside. Here are the leds with the brake lights on: And here with the position lights on: And here with the taillight on top: My inittial idea was to fit two lines of leds but I think there isn't any room for the printed circuit (cannot be seen in the photos) So probably, I'll fit led bulbs. Any ideas what and where to purchase? P.S. I forgot. In order to remove the taillight, I had to undo and lift the cowl. This is not written in the manual.

What are you putting the plugs in? :-k In a Triumph. Three cylinders, three plugs And I am 5000 miles away.... On second thought, since BR8ES are used on 2-strokes, maybe its a Kawasaki Samurai :idea: :idea: But he went to a Honda dealer. Maybe its an MVX 250 (did you have those in US?) , one of the few dissasters from Honda.

What are you putting the plugs in? :-k In a Triumph. Three cylinders, three plugs And I am 5000 miles away.... On second thought, since BR8ES are used on 2-strokes, maybe its a Kawasaki Samurai :idea:

What are you putting the plugs in? :-k In a Triumph. Three cylinders, three plugs And I am 5000 miles away....

I should have thought that by myself. :oops: Thanks. You got me on this as well. I have 4 arrays of LEDS from the rear lights of a training car I have in 'office'. The 2 of them are running lights, the other are combined running/brake lights They are bigger than the XX's taillight and will ne an ass to install them. I'll come up with pictures later today.

Is it possible to open the taillight (FI model)? From the parts diagramms it looks like a sealed unit and surely there are no screws from the outside.

Rick, how many Oscars have you won and in which categories?

Check here http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/pages/pricing/...pplications.asp

I don't think that the slides move further. And if this happens this should be because of the different slide springs that -I think - are coming with a Dynojet kit. One suggestion though. First try the kit without drilling the slides' holes. When I installed a Dynojet kit in my Ninja (and drilled the slides), it was impossible to get rid of two flat spots in the above idle and low to mid revs. My dyno man said that the slides are openning too fast going lean momentarilly .

I think you've got this one exactly opposite. My XR600 has the mixture screw on the engine side. When you turn it clockwise it gets leaner and vice versa. My CR500 has the screw on the airbox side. When you turn clockwise the screw it gets richer. Of course , this affects mainly the idle engine speed and the transition to the lower revs. I don't remember clearly about CV carbs (I only had the old Ninja) but I think it is the same.

It would be nice to give us your references. You know except fuel jets, there are air jets as well. When you go bigger with those, you go leaner. Everything else you're writing , simply just not makes sense. Regarding the rich-lean ratios you provide, during startup some engines might go even richer, but under normal running conditions, 18 to 1 is good only for diesels or direct injection petrol engines.

I know that and thats why I mention what I observed. The stock filter I bought certainly had a thin layer of oil. Might have been a preseervation oil or whatever, I can't tell. Because it felt very strange, after reinstalling the K&N, I washed the stocker (I do it the foam filter way) and afterwards I oiled it. It was still reusable, the paper layers did not collapsed but a 'wave' was formulated. Maybe the porous were clogged, but I do not have a Superflow rig to test it. By no means I am not saying that you can treat the stock filter like a K&N, all I am saying is that it didn't disintegrated like I was expecting. I think the above summarizes all perfectly. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year with no accidents for everybody .

I am using K&N filters for more than 10 years in my vehicles and I would say that there is a difference, especially in roll-on acceleration. Not a day-night difference but a noticeable one. Saying that I have to add that on the XX the gains were minimal (maybe crisper throttle on high revs), but I cannot be objective because my conclusions are based on the days I ride the bike with stock filter (when servicing the K&N and waiting to dry for a couple days)....... and I already have free flowing slip-ons (Termignoni's) and a custom mapped PC3 for this setup. I think that I prefer the K&N because -being raised with dirt bikes- I feel better when I clean regularly and oil my air filters. By the way has anybody of you notice that the OEM filter is a heavy duty item (with the wire mesh on the intake) which fits perfectly on the airbox (not like the K&N) and comes already OILED (first time I see this on a paper air filter) ?

As I was going to advise you to start by replacing oil, I've seen you did it. Personally I change fork oil twice per year (with an average mileage of 12000 kms). Regarding your last question, this link might be usefull, just not forget to re-check oil height (you are going to lose a bit when removing the old springs) http://bb.superblackbird.info/viewtopic.php?t=297 Now, is it hard to ask you to measure free lenght of your new springs (if you have not installed them already) and where did you buy them? P.S. I think 2.5 oil weight is a bit too thin although I haven't tried anything lighter than 7.5wt. However, because not everything written on the tin is always true, check these links as well: http://www.hrpworld.com/client_images/ecom.../pdf_3119_1.pdf http://www.spectro-oils.com/oilcom1.gif ]http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/images/...y-Data.gif http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/fo..._blendchart.pdf

Have you heard about gravity bleeding?