Helvet

Or at least become a HyperPro dealer. I was a fan long before I became a dealer..... I tried most other springs, but I liked the Hyperpro the best by far...... Racetech is not available in Europe (at least I've never seen any...), so I can't tell if it's good or not. Yes, I agree you should adjust static sag. Hyperpro Europe also adjusts for sag. I don't know how the USA importer thinks about this.... Why they don't compensate for heavier or lighter riders is because the springs used are lighter than the others in the first few inches of travel, and heavier than others in the last few inches. That way they have a very large area covered. Hyperpro has springs made in lots of types. For the Blackbird they only have one fitting spring. For some other bikes they have more, but 95% buys standard. Personally I could agree with you that if you are an exceptional rider (in skills or weight) you might be out of place with these springs. But in those cases I would advice to go beyond springs, and buy complete shocks.

I am sorry Joe, but maybe it does with Racetech springs and not with the Hyperpro? I don't have this problem anymore.... The force on the springs when cornering is quite big, and when you hit a bump even more..... It will not bottom out (almost never), but like I said earlier dropping the front a bit neutralizes the longer springs. Therefore I think we are both right....

Yes and no..... All suspension has a certain travellenght, both in positive and negative direction. With longer springs you make the negative travel shorter, and the positive longer......

Perhaps if you nearly doubled your size, you would understand. If you've seen a picture of my bike, you've seen the scrape marks in the fairings, and the bent centerstand arm.... I had the same problem...... untill I installed the Hyperpro's. Yes, it's hard to explain in another language than your own, but I'll try.... Because the spring rate increases even more when loaded, the difference when riding in sag is not as big as a normal progressive spring. The lean-angle you are talking about is at the end of travel of the spring. If you look at the Hyperpro spring, the force it delivers in this region is much larger than conventional springs, and it is still comfortable with slower speeds. I used to scrape the fairing as well, and also the centrestand. I just bought a new centerstand because it's beginning to annoy me..... When I mounted the HP's, I found I could corner a lot faster without anything touching the ground. I mounted Gilles footrests before to get more groundclearance, but they are not necessary now. Yes, I am a leightweight rider, but even heavyweight riders will benefit of this (and even more). Now I never come to the end of the suspensiontravel, and before it happened a lot..... The lenght of the springs IS a factor that counts. With longer springs you will reduce the static sag (if the spring has the same strenght that is). It will therefore give you more suspensiontravel.... Also a fully progressive spring has no resonance-moment (I don't know the correct word). All springs will start to jump around when you go to a certain frequency. I guess we have all seen older cars with weak suspension go over the bumps at a trafficlight. With the exact right speed the suspension will loose all contact with the road, and just jump around. The oil will provide damping in a good system when this happens, but the spring wants to react this way. If we ride over these bumps you will feel the front losing contact. With HP's this is much less because it is not frequency dependant. If you get the chance, compair a Blackbird with Hyperpro springs with a standard one, and find a third with Öhlins or Racetech. We did the comparison, and had the bikes set up by the factory. Everybody doing the testrides (over 30) chose the HP.....

Lowering the front, and raising the rear is with the original springs limited use gained. Honda used to weak springs with too thick oil. If you want to make a real improvement upgrade your springs and oil... Check out this link: http://www.cbr1100xxforums.org/forum/viewt...pic.php?t=27931

You adjust chain-slack on the centrestand. Yes, with proper settings, the chain is more loose at the moment the suspension is under full compression. This will not cause problems, but just keep an eye on it that it will not come too loose. Yes, Hyperpro advises to move the forks up in the tree. That is because their springs are not only longer, but the will have a smaller static sag. If you don't move the forks, the bike's ride-height will be higher than original on the front, and the geometry will change. Since there is no downside to moving the forks as they advise, why shoudn't you do it? The maximum travel will still be the same, and ground-clearance is plenty! I don't understand..... You will have a bike that is great in a straight line, but that will hesitate to corner..... It's a 15 minute job, so why won't you just try it? You can always undo it....

I clicked on the link above and it timed out... Yes we have a server-problem at the moment. Sorry about that! Keep trying, it will come up...... The problem is in the server of the provider. If you try 4 times in a row, you'll probably get in. Sometimes there is no problem at all....

How the hell can someone patent a progressive spring? They have been around and in common use in various applications for decades. OK guys, I'll try to explain this: 1. a linear spring. This is wound in such a way that the gap between each winding is the same. Both the top and bottom part can be wound tighter. This spring gives a certain pressure for every inch you press it extra. For instance, the first inch gives 1 kilogram pressure. The second inch gives another 1 kilogram, making 2 kilogramms. This way 10 inches (no dirty jokes here please) gives 10 kilograms pressure. 2. a progressive spring. Yes, these have been around for ages, however this is the biggest fake ever! What is commonly known as a progressive spring is NOT a progressive spring, it's just 2 linear springs on top of each other (in one spring ofcourse, not 2). In this case you have a weaker spring, and a softer spring. The tight wound is the soft part, the looser wound is the harder part. If you compress these springs, you will see that the softer part gets pressed first, untill it reaches a point where you have enough forces to compress the stiffer part of the spring. Usually the hardest you can compress the soft spring (that is untill the windings are very close together, or even touching) is the stage where the stiffer spring just starts to work. For instance: the first 5 inches you get 5 kilograms of counterforce. After this the second spring starts, and this gives 2 kilograms per Inch. So, the sixt Inch you have 7 kilos, the seventh you get 9 kilos, and the tenth you have 15 kilos. This is the way most motorcyclesprings are made. 3. a fully progressive spring. This is Hyperpro. In this case every winding of the spring is different, or I should say the gap is different. Every Inch you press this spring adds a different force to the total, progressively increasing..... For instance, the first Inch gives 0.8 kilo, the second another 1.0, the third 1.2 and so on.... This way you get at 5 Inches 6 kilos, and at 10 Inches the same 17 kilos. This spring is the same size and weight as the progressive one, but wound differently. And yes, this type of spring is patented (for use in shocks that is) by Hyperpro. The effect is that the first part of the spring is softer (more comfortable riding), and the last part is stiffer (giving better ground-clearance, higher curve-speeds, and less affected by bumps). Also the Hypepro springs are polished so that they give less friction and less wear than others (like the Wilbers). Is this clear? If anybody has any questions, I will be more than happy to explain.... We are very interested (me as a Hyperpro dealer, and aslo the Hyperpro factory which flow-charts you have compaired between Wilbers and Hyperpro because it is impossible that they are the same....). Can you send me a copy? This is not to use in court or something, but certain parties are telling you an incomplete or even totally false story..... The strenght of a good organisation depends on sending out the correct answers to questions customers have, and in this case there is a lot of wrong info around....

How about the ones I sell? http://bb.superblackbird.info/viewtopic.php?t=20 The price will be changed very soon however, because I am forced to buy them for a higher price because my supplier folded.....

You got me really confused here..... Did you try to buy progressive springs from Honda? What's the point of that? If they didn't get it right the first time, why do you think they will get it right this time? Or did you try to buy progressive springs from a suspension-factory? Which one? They will all tell you that they don't like the progressive springs, or that they don't make them anymore, because Hyperpro has a patend on fully progressive springs.... They still make them, and they work great! Especcially for a lighter rider, you can even drop the front a little more....

I am not sure how much that is in Kilo's.... But the good part about these springs is that they adjust to the rider weight (with limits ofcourse). The only thing you need to adjust is the sag.... Replacing valves is not required, but in your case probably advisable.

Have you ever considered checking out all the postings made before? Why don't you use the search-button, and find what you are looking for instead of asking a small question that needs a long answer...... If you are looking for a short answer, this is it: YES!

I don't want to worry you, but almost the same thing happened when I installed mine. So I took it off the bike, only to find that a few weeks later the F1 light started to flash on again.... A few weeks later the bike was running continuously in safe-mode.. My problem was the dreaded wiring-loom problem. After replacing the complete wiring-loom the problem is gone, with and without the PC2. I have noticed this a few times now, that installing the PC2 makes the wiring-loom problem start earlier. I guess it notices earlier something is wrong, and the PGM goes into safe mode..... This is not necessarily a bad thing...

Don't go over 6mm, otherwise you might be surprised with a real tankslapper...... If you buy the Hyperpro set (springs front and rear) the shim is included (4mm).

If you buy a Hyperpro set (springs front and rear), or just the front, the right oil is included. Hyperpro uses 5W or 7,5W depending on the rider.

Do you have a link for the used LED's?

I did. First I did Hyperpro springs and lighter oil. Improvement over standard, about 50% (really surprised me how much improvement you can make with such a simple item like a spring and some oil). A year later I've had my front fork cleaned, new scraping rings and new valves mounted. Improvement about 20%, but the old oil probably was 10 to 15%, and the valves were 5 to 10%. However, I am a leighweight rider, and the bike is originally set up for aproximately my eight. If there is more of you than there is of me the new valves will benifit you more than a standard rider.... In my opinion, the valve-thing is not worth the money and effort.... Only if you are already planning to take the complete forks apart you could (or should) do it.

Yes and no..... All Blackbird specail parts have been in the merchandise shop of our Blackbird Owners Club Holland (I am the president and I do all the merchandise). We have been selling these parts for almost 2 years now, and were much cheaper than others (no need for big profits). You can buy from us, I will not put them in my shop.... I can't give you a link right now because the site is dead......

This will not work, I've tried..... LED's are very directional, and the bulbs on the front are mounted in an awquard angle. They are not visble the way you would want them to.....

Could be a broken clutch-plate......

Hi guys, sorry for the delay....... As you might be able to understand I was busy. Setting up shop is a lot of work. I'll try and answer your questions about suspension and tires. 1. I just checked out Hyperpro's USA site. Do they only sell one weight of fork springs? I am 280 lbs. $175 delivered for fork springs, is there anywhere selling Hyperpro for less? Hyperpro only sells 1 type of spring for every bike. The theory is that because it has a fully progressive spring (and not a 2-step progressive spring like most others) you will automatically come to the right preload needed. You will only need to change righthight. But that will not be much, since the spring becomes stiff very fast. I know the prices in the USA were very low, but $ 175 for a set is cheaper than the price I can buy them for. So I can't compete with them in the USA. The list price here is € 230,-- ($ 290,--) 2. Received a couple of emails back from various people in the racing industry, and manufacturers worldwide.... The majority of replies that came back was not to use any progressive spring on a XX, but rather use 10% stiffer springs with an air gap of 125mm and 10W oil. Other manufacturers will downsize the performance of Hyperpro because they can't offer anything like this. The spring design is pattented! In racing conditions a non-progressive spring is better, because you can predict almost exactly how it will behave. On the road however, the surface varies a lot more. Potholes will become very uncomfortable with a stiff lineair spring, and a weak spring will bottom out..... The 10W oil is really to thick. It will slow the shock too much. Depending on the manufacturer you should use 5 or 7.5W oil. 3. Requested a flow chart from both Wilbers and Hyper Pro, and after looking at this I'm wondering if it's not the same spring, with a different name on the box.... Same digits right through to the top on the paper.... I really can't get into details here, but if I tell you that Wilbers was the distributor for Hyperpro in Germany, you can make up your own mind. However, the Wilbers set-up in the group-buy was with a 2-stage progressive spring, and not the fully progressive Hyperrpo springs. I know for a fact that Hyperpro has seen the postings and remarks made by the Wilbers-guys about Hyperpro, and have reconsidered the position of Wilbers. I don't know how this ended, or what Wilbers is selling now.... 4. Are we going to have to wait until spring to place an order? No. I will be taking orders in 32 days. The webshop might not be open, but I will sell by email..... 5. Hey Helvet, how much will it cost to ship 1, 2 or 4 tires to Utah? Sorry, but way too much (from Europe, where I am based). The prices in the USA are very low. My pricing (and I am really the cheapest in Holland) is about the same level as yours. This makes me 30% cheaper as most competitors, and 50% (or more) cheaper than the official dealers.

This looks terrible, but works very well. I used them as well on some previous bikes..... :oops:

Wow. What a shock. Hey, I take offence to that remark! I was a fan of Hyperpro long before I had the idea to start my own shop and include them...... I've already sold over 60 sets to BB-riders without being a dealer, and without making any money with it..... So why not try and make a living with my hobby? The big business for me will still be my regular job (Sales Accountant for Safety-gear), and it will be supplemented by selling my tires in Holland..... (Michelin, Bridgestone, Pirelli, Dunlop and Metzeler).

I just picked up my bike yesterday from the dealer. They installed a brand new wiring-loom, and the bike runs as good as it ever did! Hurray, can't wait for spring to come.....

Don't forget to change all hydraulic fliuds (brake and clutch). Be sure to test the brakes to check if the pads aren't stuck.....