Mikey

and use your old race to tap the new one in. Wouldn't hurt to freeze the new race. Btw, how were you going to put the steering head into the freezer?

So, for the older carb'd models, how are they being mounted? I got lost when someone mentioned the hose clamp. Do we have pics or any other visual queues you guys can help with? John, what did you put in that PM (you secretive fella you).

Resin core 60/40 will do well. Heat the ends up real well and let the solder melt on the wires and soak in (even flow). That's going to give you the best connection.

Don't the testers do 60 and 100-0 braking distances? They do for cars.

Why wouldn't tricking the ECU into delivering a more powerful fuel mixture (contrary to the standard "Green" settings) not work? I didn't pay much attention to any numbers they offered, but I would assume some measure of improvement if you remove the environmental governing (similiar to adjusting timing, etc).

Dave, Tina says to get a new woman. Problem solved.

Oh, I thought the manual said to have someone on it? Silly me.

If I recall correctly, you are suppose to check with someone on the bike. You are also suppose to check several areas on the chain by rolling the bike forward (or back). As you are suppose to adjust the slack at the tightest point on the chain.

I've got a carbed model and I have a sidestand light. It's a yellow "S" on the dash. That's weird. I'd agree with the others and say to trace the switch wire back up to the loom and loop it there. It is just a matter of crossing the pins. You could take a multimeter and see if there is any current going through your current (pardon the pun) setup. Might be a short (or a break) earlier up the wire.

Uh, what would that offer you? If you had your "low beams" on during the day, you'd burn the retinas out of everyone in front of you. That just wouldn't be I've only got one HID right now. It's in the top, with the low connected (as per normal operation). So I've got my HID on all the time. It's been 3 years with no problem.

Very cool, Mike! What's the compression supposed to be? Me too I have a 97XX with 44k miles. What have you replaced so far? Nothing went wrong on mine. I upgraded the CCT, replaced the stock R/R with a R1 R/R and that was it (beside plugs/chain/sprockets/tires of course). 185 is what it's suppose to be. So I'm happy with the mileage it's at. I've done the same as you, CCT's (several unfortunately) and replaced the R/R with one that Louie recommended (he's on this board). Apparently they aren't recommending this particular one anymore, but it's still working great for me. Offering 13.8v at idle (so it charges while idling).

I'll have to keep an eye out for the plugs. It was the dealer price and you know how they like to triple that. And ya, it was installed. Either way, it's working fine with the current plugs.

So it only took 94k miles but I finally had 3 tight valves. They weren't out of spec, but just tight enough to be worth doing. The spark plugs were changed at 30k and they still were clean working well. Not worth 100 bucks for new ones. Did a compression check. 170 for 1,2 and 4. 160 for #3. Over all. Not bad for 94k miles. Dino oil all the way.

Anyone want to go halves? I only need one.

I sent you a PM. If you email it to me, I'll host it for you. (I also would like a copy ).

Nah, people would post even if it wasn't important. It might be a slow day on the board. Can you snap a pick of the pin and the o ring placement?

Just install the resister to create a bit more load. That should do the trick.

I'll use kerosene on the chain if it's really hideous. I take it off and wipe /scrub the sides really well. As for the rest of that area, I use that white cold gelly type stuff that they sell in the automotive area to clean your hands. it doesn't have any pumus (sp?) or anything in it and it works very very very well for cutting through the grease. Requires a brush.

Perfect. Thanks.

I can't seem to find my manual and thought this would be faster than unpacking all my boxes in my house.

As irony would have it, I was looking for those straps (tool) recently. So I snagged them :] For 12 bucks, I can't go wrong really.

DAMN, if I didn't just by an RV I would be liking that!

This is how I did mine..... I took 16.4oz and converted to ml..... 485ml Then I took a kitchen digital scale and found a cylinder to hold at least that much water. I poured in water until the weight (not including the cylinder) was 485grams. I marked that level.... that's your 485ml. Now dry it out and pour in your oil. Better to use smaller thinner cylinder as it's easier to get an accurate mark. The bigger the cylinder (wide) the more precise you'll need to be in your mark and it's a pain. God I love metric.

I'm snagging it either way. If I happen to have two of the same, fine. Obviously I'm chewing through them. If I luck out and get the geniuine X11, then I've got a second as a backup. Either way I'm smiling! And the combined cost is CHEAPER than the OEM here locally.

He's not going to like it if he's found, that's for sure. I think he's past the monetary point.