RodeRash

You should have a machinist measure the rod and the crank before putting in a new bearing. Something made the old one fail. The big end of the rod could be stretched out of round, and you would need to either bore it to the next larger size, or replace it. If it's not out of round, at least you will know the correct size, and you can order new bearings.

I assume you are buying Pilot Powers because you like to go fast around corners. (If not, I'd be shopping for a tire that lasts longer than a Pilot Power) A 190 is too wide for the stock rim. It was designed for a 6 inch rim. Mounting that tire on a 5.5 inch rim will change the profile. Typically it will make your bike handle worse. How much worse depends on how hard you corner.

The dynojet dyno was developed as an inexpensive alternative to other dynamometers. It works by measuring the time it takes to accelerate a heavy drum. A mathmatical algorythm is used to estimate actual torque/hp. This algorythm was developed after much testing in order to give results close to what you would get from dynos that apply resistance. Regular dynamometers apply resistance to the spinning drum (either electrically in the case of the eddy current, or by using hydraulic pressure) These dynamometers measure the actual torque generated, and from there they can display horsepower by using the standard calculation. So, which one would you trust to give the most accurate results? If I wanted something to brag about, I would go with whatever system gives the biggest numbers. If I wanted to tune my bike for all operating conditions, I would use the eddy current dyno, and use the hp/torque numbers only as reference points. If you did nothing but drag race, a dynojet dyno may actually work best. Anything that you do to help accelerate the drum faster (such as a lightened crankshaft or lighter flywheel) may not show as increased horsepower on a regular dyno, but can help you at the drag strip.

Sticky kickstand safety switch?

I had Lindemann redo my forks, including springs. He spends a lot of time reducing stiction on the BlackBird forks. I was extremely happy. After I put them back on, I found that even the preload was dead on. The ride was firm, but the forks soaked up bumps like the stock forks never did. Lindeman supplied and set up a Penske rear shock at the same time. I would use him again.

I never checked mine until around 40,000 miles because everyone said that they never go out of adjustment. I had a number of valves that checked out of spec. They were on the loose side. I would have expected them to be tight. So, they may have been loose all along.

I wouldn't rush out and buy one now. Maybe 3 weeks ago. Sorry Honda, I couldn't wait.

Based on a 20 mile ride with a borrowed GPS (at a bunch of different speeds), and what has been posted online, I assumed an 8% speedometer error. I found it was not all that easy on a short ride with a GPS stuck by velcro to my tank bag to verify the speedometer to the GPS. After the ride, my odometer showed a 3% error, which was confirmed by boring rides on the interstate where I could check my mileage against mile markers. I decided to set my speedohealer at 6% as a compromise between the speedometer and the odometer. To my surprise, the 6% adjustment brought my speedometer almost dead on. This has been confirmed by a number of those side-of-the road radar trailers, and at least one LEO. My odometer is now 3% slow instead of 3% fast. My perceived fuel mileage has dropped by about 6% :icon_think: Duh.

It's definately not the clutch. The clutch makes a different noise. It's the cam chain. It acts like it takes a little while for the oil pressure to build in the CCT before it tensions properly. I might try an oil additive like BG EPC to see if this makes a difference.

I was just wondering if anyone else gets noise from their cam chain when their engine is first started? It happens at a lower rpm than what is usually reported. (from about 2000-3500 rpm) It's the typical "bag-o-marbles" rattle. The noise goes away after a few minutes of riding. I replaced the original CCT with one of the X11 models maybe 20,000 or so miles ago.

I dropped the inner fender down, and installed my remote reservoir on the inside of left side of the subframe. This makes it easy to get to the adjuster. You just pop the seat and it's right there. It also hides the installation from prying eyes.

SELL IT !

This thread should be moved to the Pub. It's too damn funny for the garage. :icon_clap:

Here are the standard replies. 1. The OEM Honda filter has have a valve that does not allow the oil to drain back into the engine. You don't know if that is true on your replacement filter. (engine wear issue) 2. The OEM filter has a bypass spring specified by Honda. The bypass spring in the replacement filter may not be setup to bypass at that same pressure level. (possible engine damage issue) 3. The generic filter may not filter per Honda specs. (engine wear issue) (NOTE: The shop guy does not know what the specs are for the Honda filter any more than you or I do.) 4. Your service guy didn't want to spend the time cleaning your new replaceable filter. (an oil change is a flat rate charge and it doesn't include time spent cleaning an aftermarket filter) 5. The service dept. didn't get to sell you a new filter. (dealer revenue issue)

After 40,000 some miles, I decided that I should take a look at the valves. The result? I had one valve that was borderline tight, but within specs, and 10 valves that were out of spec loose and needed adjustment. I didn't expect that.

When the Reg/Rec fails, most of the time, your system overcharges. Limiting voltage is the primary job of the Reg/Rec. That's why they get so hot. Symptoms include blown light bulbs, (dash bulbs go first) and a cooked battery.

Been there, done that. Still have the scars. Don't waste you money trying to rebuild and refit old crap. Keep in mind that CBR 900 and 600 owners are replacing their shocks with something better. Do yourself a favor, save up your coin and buy a good, new fully adjustable aftermarket shock that is set up just for you and your riding style.

Just a test

The RR does need to dump heat to the frame, and Honda supplies a big flat mounting pad for just that reason. Don't relocate. It probably wouldn't hurt to use some of that grease that they use between a computer heat sink and the chasis when you mount up a new RR. (or, do it just as a maintanence project on the one you have) I replaced my OEM (still working at 37,000 miles) RR with one of the replacement units that is finned. I do throw my original part in my tank bag when I go on a long trip.

The valve adjustment in motorcycles that use shims usually get tighter, but not because of wear on the shims. It is because the valve itself tends to distort and "tulip". If they distort enough, they still won't hit the piston, but they will quit sealing properly, and you will loose compression.

no

There are good instructions on their web site. http://www.speedohealer.com/your_pics/cbr1...xx/tutorial.htm

The only substitute for cubic inches is rectangular dollars. There are a few guys on this board who have modified their birds to the point that they can beat a majority of the Busa's that they come up against, but don't forget, there's a ton of hop up goodies available for the big Suzuki, and not much for the Honda. There are probably more modified Busa's running around in the US than all the BlackBirds combined.

The awsome spreadsheet located in the Important/Useful threads section says that at 10,800 rpm in 6th. gear, you will be going 166.6 (mph), or down about 14 mph.