RodeRash

+1. Fuck the treadmill. Many times they wind up being an expensive clothes rack. Go outside. Leave your headphones at home and enjoy the morning sounds. I was out walking this morning at 4:00 AM. I live close to a big open space that extends up to the foothills. They have a bike path that runs right through it. It's just me and the coyotes that time of the morning. The coyotes are pretty loud. You are my hero for quitting smoking and losing weight at the same time. That's usually an either or thing. Keep up the good work. Think long term. Try to find an exercize program you like enough to make into a lifetime habit.

+1 on the walking. I was just breaking even with my weight, even though I cut down on food, and go to the gym regularly. I added a walk every day at lunch and started losing weight again. Started out just me walking. Now there are three of us at work who eat quickly, then walk for the rest of our lunch hour. It gets me away from my job, lowers my blood pressure adds exercize, and it's fun.

Today is the day. Good luck with your plan.

When you are talking mileage, altitude is extremely important with FI. More air = more fuel. Most of my riding starts at 5,000 feet and goes up. My mileage is usually in the mid 40's to low 50's. I've gone to Arkansas twice for OZARXX. My mileage on those trips is more like mid to upper 30's to low 40's. The only thing different is the altitude. This is on my Busa, which typically does better on fuel than the BlackBirds I ride with. (Except EVLXX)

Blasting up and down the John Wayne Parkway will cause the axle bolts to self-tighten.

Think of it as a "hidden" anti theft device.

I'd let it run at idle instead.

How about 110lb+RC51Rider ?

Whatever. There are two ways of calculating Octane levels. RON (Research Octane Number) and MON (Motor Octane Number) A RON of 91 is roughly the same as a MON of 83. Most pumps in the US list their Octane rating as an average of the two methods. (R+M)/2. The owners manual says to use 91 RON Doing the math...... (91+83)/2 = 87 (funny how that works out) Unless you raised your compression ratio, or increased ignition timing, running premium fuel in your Blackbird does little but make you feel better.

If running Premium makes you feel good. Do it. It's your money.

The Penske is adjustable for length, so you would not need to add the shim. However, it may be easier to add the shim than it is to pull the shock out and adjust it. When I bought my Penske, along with providing them my weight and riding style, I requested they set it up to be 6 mm. longer than stock.

I'm on my third set of PR2's. I like how they feel, and they seem to stick well enough for the type of riding I do. I average about 7000 miles per set. I replace them when they are down to the wear bars. The front and rear tires wear out about the same time. Now that the PR3's are out, the price should start dropping.

Get the best from Hobi.... Stop and Go Tire plug kit

Probably because Michelin sells the HPX for big bikes like the Bird, the Busa and the ZX14. If they had a dual compound HPX, I would try them.

You should take a scale with you to RacerXX IV and have all the participants use that scale for the final weigh in. Good luck to all you guys.

Sparkplugs. Replace them.

Two words. "coffee enima"

Because of the possibility of outgassing from cast aluminum wheels, I would paint instead of power coat.

Absolutely. This is also a good reason to keep at it regularly. If you stop for a month, then start lifting again, yer fucked. I just saw this, and had to comment on it. I agree. First, you need to learn proper form. There is nothing wrong with starting with a weight you can handle easily. You can always add more weight. You can't learn proper form if you are struggling with the weight. Tell him your concerns at your next session with him. If he argues about it, then he is obviously not the right trainer for you.

You have DOMS. The medical community has a term for everything. It will go away.

For What It's Worth: I do a ten minute warm up on a Concept II rowing machine before starting my routine. You get a lot more muscles involved with a rowing machine than you do if you run or ride a bike.

All machines are different. What is important in the beginning, is to have someone (an employee of the health club) go through the machines with you and show you how to adjust them to your size, and also the proper body position to use while doing the exercise. They should do that for free. Take notes, as this will not be a workout, only a "show and tell" They will have you use almost no weight. You are only learning the proper way to use the machine. Base your workout on using machines that work as many body parts as possible. (ask the guy that is showing you the machines) You don't need to isolate individual muscles. If you want to lift almost every day, your best bet is to group your exercises together by body parts, so you can give your muscles two to three days rest. It is during these rest days where your muscles heal and get stronger. For instance, Do all your chest type exercizes on day 1. (These are "push" exercizes. You push the weight away from your body) Do all your back type exercizes on day 2. (These are "pull" exercizes. You pull the weight towards you) Do leg exercizes on day 3. Pick a day to not do any lifting. To make it simple, do three sets of every exercize. Rest about a minute between sets. Start with a weight that you can do three sets of eight reps. Next time you do your routine, do nine reps, then ten. When you can do three sets of ten reps, add weight and start over at eight reps. Start with fairly light weight. You need to learn how to do the exercizes properly. If you are starting with weights too heavy, you will also start cheating on the exercizes. (breaking proper form just to move the weight) You won't even know you are cheating. Do each rep fairly slow. Use muscles not momentum. Pause at the top, return to the start position slowly. Breath out as you lift, in as you return to the starting position. Don't make real stupid noises. BTW: The mirrors are not there for you to admire your body. They are there so you can see that you are maintaining proper form.

That's one of the disadvantages of having a bike that did not sell all that well. Rick's sells a high output stator for the Hayabusa. Rick’s Motorsport Electrics is proud to offer a new high output kit for the Hayabusa’s. The kit features a large casting, 40 amp rectifier/regulator and a new high output stator. The rectifier regulator is a large casting design that dissipates the heat to prevent burnouts. It also regulates stators of 40 amps of power, making it the perfect match to Rick’s high output stator. The Hayabusa stator has been field tested to deliver 25% more wattage than stock. Original equipment Hayabusa stators provide approximately 400 watts of power while maintaining about 13.5 – 15.0 volts. The Rick’s Motorsport Electrics’ high output stator provides slightly over 500 watts of power at the same voltage. This equates to a 25% improvement over stock.