Mithrandir

No. It's moulded into the resin so it won't come out without the use of a sander. For the hugger at least it's hard to see it behind the exhaust (if you keep the stock position and dual pipes.

Sorry I'm a bit slow on the reply - been drooling over carbon bits and the new seat (and somewhere in there fabricating some custom glass bits for Santiago's NOS kit....) Doesn't matter which year R1 r/r you use. Green or black are used interchangably for the ground wire. So long as you don't connect it to the red one :oops: :grin: The r/r failing is an extremely common problem on the XX - as well as most other Hondas like the VTR, VFR etc. The one's Honda use are crap and burn out all the time. When they go is dependent on the type of riding that you do. City riding/stop-start stuff will kill it faster than long distance stuff. On average, they die at about the 20K mile mark. There's another article linked from the one above that shows how to tell if it's about to die.

Dude, you have to look at the country they they're in. That's 110 of the local south-pacific peso, otherwise known as aussie dollars. So, probably about $4.36 plus P&H in the local currency

More go-fast bits turned up today. Carbon fibre hugger and tank protector from Geelong Carbon Craft. Others have had issues with them, but never for me - this is the 4th bike I've put their stuff on. The small chain guard is for my RSVR. Links to big versions: All the bits Hugger only Edit: to change pics to thumbnails and links to bigger versions.

Exhausts + PCIII aren't that hard to work with. Just a case of twirling the right spanners. PCIII just plugs straight in on the existing connectors so it's almost trivial to work with them! Of course, photos are coming. All my bits left CA today so they should be here end of week. Annnnndd... the fork valve kits are here too. http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/.../st_all_kit.jpg Going to Rich's tomorrow for a custom seat too. Yippee!!! :grin: :grin:

Righto, booked in with Mike Velasco Racing on the 12th May. Couldn't get in any earlier because he's busy with the AMA season. Alpha, the +18 was not optimisitic. On the old Ezboard, someone posted a dyno chart with the figures on it. It when from 125 to 143 at the wheel, not projected at the engine. So it was at least done on the same dyno. Just trying to find the thread now. I'll edit if the old forums are still searchable. Lost of stuff by you about the Akra, but you yourself are saying you're using the DJ sensor elimnator kit as per this thread: Akrapovicz Sport Production System

Full system is definitely the most bang-for-buck mod on the blackbird. I remember somewhere on the old board that a dyno run was posted and with no PC setup work it gave +18 RWHP. Hard to find that sort of increase anywhere else for $700! You can do the full systems without the PC, but it is recommended. The main gain will be better responsiveness - the 5000rpm hole disappears and the on-off throttle response smoothed out. For the center-stand, I've just ordered the 2bros kit for it. Cost $41 inc shipping. There's a part number floating around in one of the other threads. That allows you to keep the stand, although some minor mods will be needed if you're like me and going to raise the rear ride height. Someone did a mod to the stand itself by welding a piece in. I don't have access to the resources to do that, but if you do, then go for it. Exhaust note will be deeper for any aftermarket exhaust system. You will get more bass with carbon cans compared to Ti or Al. Weight saving - the majority of it will be saved in going to slipons as it is the cans that are the heaviest part of the system. If you go the full-system with 4 into 1, then you'll save a reasonable amount more. IIRC someone was claiming a 35lb difference between the full system and stock. As for what the Akra system is so cheap for the XX - NFI. Seems very strange. Maybe they're just not selling enough of them so they're getting rid of stock?

Motul is good. Stock honda weight is ATF, which is about equivalent to 8W in Motul. You'll need to get 5W and 10W and blend in the right proportions to get the right value. Or, just go 50/50 mix and that'll give you 7.5W

See the Two Brothers Exhaust thread. Cal's just posted pics of his Akras there.

Carting the bike around in the back of a truck does not count towards mileage :poke:

You'll need to pay for the block-offs separately. IIRC, it is $15 for one and you'll need two of them. The model I"m getting is the Ti Sport Production model. Basically a 4-2-1 full race system. I was a bit like you with the duals as I prefer that look on the XX, but for the money it was hard to beat the full system. It's the only time I'd ever be able to put an exhaust like that on a bike I reckon! For all the other bikes I've owned, the cost for an equivalent system has been well over the $1200 mark. It was an offer too good to refuse BTW, did you see my other post about the price you can acquire an akra system on special for right now? If not, have a look in the pub section about it. I ended up paying $979 total with the PCIII, shipping etc (to WA). You'd need to add $30 to that and probably CA sales tax as you're a local.

Things are looking good. Got 5 others interested in the map so far. I rang up Mike Velasco Racing yesterday to book an appointment. Didn't hear anything back, but I did dial up late in the day. Hope to hear from them Monday or Tuesday and will book in for next week if possible (my pipes/PCIII haven't turned up yet). PGA - If you're putting a PCIII in there, you'll need to put in the O2 sensor block-offs. After that, everything else is the same wrt to the maps used etc.

Found this link on fitting one to an FJR1300 http://www.fjr1300.info/howto/audiovox.html Found an online store selling it now too, $90.00 +p&h Summit Racing CCS-100 Hmmm.....next project :loony:

ooohhhhh..... sounds interesting. Any pics I could have a look at? I'd be really interested in doing a proper cruise-control because of the riding I'm doing.

For those that are interested in how to do this stuff themselves, here's a set of pics about how to do it. These are taken by my mate Chris, who bought my VTR from me (the bike used is my former VTR). He's writing up a tutorial on how to do it for the VFR list. I'll end up doing the same for you guys with XX-specific information. The VFR and VTR share the same forks, where the XX has slightly different forks (41mm v 43mm, no adjusters etc). http://ausvfr.ampersand.asn.au/gallery/album47?&page=1 My SuspensionTech valves are coming (they're in the post. I'm hoping to do the work on them next weekend and a couple of weeks from now have my own pics etc done.

You talkin' to me? You talkin' to me? You talkin' to me? Eh. No pics. They're still in a box that has not yet arrived. I ordered them wednesday. CalXX has a set on his 98 though, he might be able to get you pics.

The usual question I ask is: what are you looking for in a pipe? Are you looking for horsepower gain, weight saving, looks or something else. This should influence which pipes you get. Cost is usually a secondary consideration to these others because you need to decide on the looks department first - keeping two cans or going to a single. For the XX, it looks like the Akra full-system single is cheaper than most pairs of slipons. I ended up going for the akra based on that alone as I'm not chasing more horsepower, just better sound and less weight (hence better handling). For reference, I paid $676 for my Ti full system akra, and 2bros is advertising online the slipons at $540 or $760 for metal v c/f.

Ok. All ordered. I had to phone order direct from 2bros as their online order form would not let me purchase it. Cost $41 including ground shipping.

In the US maximum torque is gained by placing it on the right side. If you went to a more enlightened country that drives on the other side of the road, then the left side would give you more torque. In either case, max torque is always achieved while sitting still at traffic lights and reduces proportionally to the distance and speed from said traffic light.

Where do you find those kits? I've done a search of the 2bro site and they don't say anything about it. Got a link to someone that actually sells the things?

Dano - sure. I'm actually going to need a garage to do it in anyway if you have one handy. I'll need to drill a couple of holes in one of the pistons (on each fork) so having a vice and drill would be useful for the task. If you have your own bits there, we can do both at the same time. There's a few differences between the racetech and suspension tech valves, but not anything great. They're actually really simple to pull down, just the instructions seem complex. Not sure on the timing of when I'll do it. I've got ohlins rear, akra system + PCIII, bunch of carbon stuff and the fork bits turning up within the next week. May do them all at once but may get itchy tool fingers when they turn up

EFI systems can still be sync'd - ask anyone with an EFI v-twin like the RC51 or Mille. The sync is used to control the timing minutely of the fuel delivery at the injector level rather than the EFI. Over time the sensors do get dirty or just loose adjustment so you end up bringing them back to the right value. It's much more important in a big twin than an I-4. And, to the others - on my bike I only get the off-throttle jerkiness while the bike is still cold. Once it's warmed up it's smooth as anything so I definitely think the problem is throttle cable or loose chain.

Knowing dealer pricing: $75 for the reg and $40 for the plastic connector....

Ahh.. why didn't you say so! Typical wiring is to not use the connector that is directly below the little catch (normally on the "top"). Each side of that will be the positive/negative. Looking at the r/r, positive on the left, negative on the right. The other row is the stator input. Doesn't matter which way round the wires are. If you look at the top image in either of my articles, you can see this quite clearly.

What schematic? There's only 5 leads there and the colours are well known. See the first post and/or mine. All the details are supplied. You can even manufacture your own "plug" using just spade connectors.