JuXXtin

Have my cannister mostly installed... might have to get black zip ties... Should get the final lines routed and test drove in the next day or so.

Part arrived just fine btw... thks!

...or trade Eddy for his stocker? (or me!)

When I bought the SV650, the hooplehead had it that way too. I didn't notice anything wrong.... except the tire was worn very unevenly. Just like a vehicle out of alignment. Tread at X depth on one side, and minus a couple mm's on the other side. Everything has seemed fine. But maybe the caliper is more forgiving on the SV. (?)

Joined in 2003 Where ya been?

I bought a 1-way valve that has 1 way in, through valve and comes out 2 ports. The ports 2 and 3 are free flowing between themselves. So I'm thinking engine to input 1, through check valve, feeds the aux cannister and the servo through output 2 and 3. Then when the servo is activated, it pulls from both the engine and the cannister since 2 and 3 are free flowing. Will that work? Thks Mike.

Rich, I changed my sprocket's out to 18/43 and now very noticeably have this lag both in activation and increase. Obviously because the less RPM in 6th gear. With stock sprockets, it was fine... not now! I picked up a 1-way check valve today and will get the PVC for cannister this week or so. To confirm, the check valve let's the air flow into the cannister and servo, but NOT back into the vacuum lines, correct? (Then the servo can steal from the cannister and engine at the same time; k, guess I'm just talking through this.) I'll help you install it, should be no prob on a VFR I would think..!! Seriously though, if you are going to keep the viffer and do some long distance, this thing is very nice to have Cabinfev....

I've read some of those LED fog lights are only 5-10W anyway... if yours are, tapping into the headlight would be fine.

This shot may help some. Can't really speak on the water resistance [yet!?!]. The servo cable then points back around the battery/under seat and curves back around the left side of the tank and slopes down before turning up to mount on the installed bracket show in the pictures. Then it's pointing directly at the throttle linkage, If you decide to do it Craig and happen to be making a trip up this way, would be happy to help you install here. I know it would go so much faster and easier with two knuckleheads at work on it. Thks for your concern Mike! I saw how he had connected in his photos and read about that WOT a while back. Can also easily see how that could happen while I was picking a location for this so I was sure to pick a route where WOT was no problem on binding. So I did route under that throttle bar when it could get hung up. You can see that bar in the first photo atop on the left for others who are wondering what we're talking about.

My experience has been, if the bike is operating normal with good batt/rr/stator/etc... no flicker. Yep, looks just like the one I got. I pulled the two wires that connect to the H7 bike harness back out of the rubber washer/seal. Then pushed the rubber seal all the way up against the bulb, then strapped in the bulb into position. So it's basically used as a washer to help keep the bulb in position.

I would be willing to spend up to $50 + $15 shipping.

How much for that stock shock? Thks.

Auto stores clearanced them quite a while ago... so they appear on ebay occasionally/regularly. $50-110-ish. If you tour, "worth it!", if you just need a throttle lock every now and then, buy the NEP throttle lock. FWIW .

I wanted them to match the brake wire that comes pre-harnessed with the Audiovox kit!

I know this is already resolved but anyway... I Had to add this in also to keep the CC working properly, tied into the LED brake light:

So you want to mis-match with a Pazzo brake lever? Plus, I don't know the answer to this.

Hey there Steve... welcome! This bike can hv a few different pannier setups, so I think more information for which one you got would help get your questions answered. Or ebay link etc.

You're golden!... that part was meant for Runner above with thoughts of LB/HB.

Runner, you'll hv no regrets... :icon_thumbsup: I've been doing other things at the same time so I have quite a bit apart... but I think at minimum, the windscreen and dash. I didn't remove the dash completely, just removed the mounting nuts and moved (w/harness still connected) towards the triple to get it out of the way. I also re-routed the large harness that you see in the picture away from the where the ballast was installed and moved it going through the center of the stay. If you use that spot for a ballast, one of the windscreen bolts will be very close to the corner so just be aware of that closeness when doing your final securing. Also, it'll be even trickier if mounting two ballasts under there. :icon_shifty: It can be done though, just trickier.

Got it, will send it out on Monday or Tuesday to you... this is where I installed the ballast fyi.

Chapperal Racing has them for about $28.99, order a few other things you might need and get free shipping.

Mmmmm, I like those black shorties.

I got from the seller posted above, flashplus. This particular one came with a rubber guard for the wires... I slid it up the lines against the back of the bulb and put it into place and latched it. Like Byrdman said.... EASY! You do have to find a spot for the ballast though, a little trickier but still no problem if you are an expert at the fine art of.... zip-ties! Or ppal me $35 and I'll send you the other half of my kit.

Bjorn, The H7 is a single filament, 1 bulb/ballast will replace with upper light, low beam. I kept the high beam bulb non-HID because I switch it on and off with traffic frequently enough that if it was HID, it wouldn't be very effective. As the HID bulb needs a few minutes to full brightness after switching on. But if I was doing desert run's at 3am a lot, then HID high beam would be very effective too.

You can decide. The servo unit has dip switches to set. Set by RPM only, or RPM and VSS. Iit needs the RPM at minimum because if there's a 'sudden change' in RPM, it'll disengage.