HERBXX

Thats a f4 i shock in the pic so as long as the 900r shock has a steel cap your good to go.( i think it does). Mine held presure fine all last year until i just released it in preparation for taking the shock off to change the valving a bit more . With the heavier spring you need more rebound and most likely less compression. If you do it take off the oring before you solder the fitting in . I have been unable to find the right orings anywhere , even measured then and ordered some and they still weren't right so ended up reusing them.

It easy to make the end cap. I used a brass fitting from the hardware store. I tapped the hole in the end cap , 1/8 pipe thread i think. Screwed the fitting in,solder it for good measure, diegrinder or dremel to make the fitting flush on the inside. Screwed the valve with teflon tape into the brass fitting. I'll look for my pics . dead center of the pic

I used a 100w highbeam for 2 years before i switched to HID b

I just threw it up for your consideration. . There are a couple of tunners close to me that i'm sure have lots of shims, and i imagine if i walked in and was real nice they would sell me just what i need. Since i only have 25000 km on my bike im not even planning on checking the valves for long while yet . Herb

http://www.cyclebuy.com/shopping/shims/shimkits.htm

I did my first oil change at 800km and switched to synthetic. In correspondence with Castrol, the nice tech lady stated the break in would still continue with the synthetic(if needed) only at a slower rate. Herb

Its screwed !! sell the motor to me for 5 bucks so i can put it on my snow blower

Hi, I would see if you could turn the filter any tighter with your hand. If you can move it all it, thats most likely the problem .

I am about 260-270 without gear. I am using an 1100 lb spring on the f4 shock im using, on the least preload adjustment. I haven't been inside a 900rr shonk but i assume its the same deal as the f4 . Drill a small hole in the end of the res to release the preasure. (go just through the metal or you will nick the bladder). Push in the res in take out the inner circlip , put a screw in the hole you just drilled to pull out the cap. Now for the shock itself ( from memory) 1) remove the spring 2) hold the jam nut , screw off the bottom link thing 3) hold the shaft with aholder ( 1/2 inch piece of alum with a 14 mm hole through it cut i 2 piece through the hole) , remove the jam nut. 4) pry off the dust cover on the end of the shock 5) push in the seal head 6) remove the inner circlip 7) pull out shaft seal heat and valving If anybody wants to actually try this themselves let me know and 'ill try and write beter instructions , but i just wanted to give an idea of what is involved. the only way yo learn if to GOFORIT Im going to be taking my shock apart again the next few weeks to take out some compression damping so if anyone need pics of a given step i'll try and get them. Thanks Herb Ps it a lot easier to find newer f4i shocks then 900r, THe f4i shock requires a 1/2 shim amove the mount (travel is the same). There is a lot more thread on a f4i mount so grab one if you try this conversion.

any updates ?

When you buy racetech valves , they give you several recomendation for shim stacks, and access to there web site that helps pick out the stack to use . The valve combined with the stack of shims on it controls how it works.

To use the f4 shock you need a 1/2 inch spacer between the upper shock mount and the frame. It works best if you get the f4 top mount as it has a longer bolt on it . You will also need a stiffer spring for the shock and the shock should be revalved I did it cause I had lots of time on my hands and wanted to learn about shocks and valving . I have an 1100 lb/inch ebiach on mine . The stock f4 spring has the top coil smaller in diameter then the rest so you need to get a spring like that or modify the top perch a bit. I found the mod a rewarding experience cause I learned a lot about shocks and the only real expense was the new spring and a lot of my time . I think i paid 20 bucks for my f4 shock on ebay. If you are not prepared to actually take the f4 shock apart and play with it I would stick with the stock shock. Herb

normal !

The gas in the stock shock is separated from the oil by a flat nylon piston with a o-ring on it The piston is held captive in the top part of the shock by a ring that is pressed /crimped into the shock body. I could find no way to remove this dividing piston with out using the bandsaw. At the top left of this pic in the plastic box , by the top of the spring you can see the piston i'm taking about . I cut the stock body in half to get it out) http://img110.imageshack.us/my.php?image=d...dscn00959nm.jpg If you are going to go to the trouble to revalve and re spring a xx shock do it in a f4 shock body, then you pick up the compression adjuster, preload and remote res. I'm not sure what an emulsion shock is but the design of this shock is similar to other shocks other than it uses a piston to separates the gas and oil instead of a bladder. ( i think some after market shocks use a piston in the remote res as well).

If you want to be daring i would pull your fork apart and alter the shim stack on your compression valve . I would just try removing one of the shims from the face of the compression valve.( i forget what the stock stack is but there is a few shims of the same diameter/thickness) If you can get a hold of a copy of the race tech installation instructions it will show how to take apart your existing valves. I havn't done this (altered stock stacks in my fork) but i have gained some understanding by installing my racetech stuff and by revalving my own shock . I would try it next time instade of buying the racetch stuff. Herb

I agree with not cutting the springs , but it brings up an interesing idea . If one was to cut a spring the spring the rate goes up. If you have 1 spring with 10 effective coils and a rate of say 1.0kg/ mm and you cut one coil off the rate would now be 1.0kg/.9mm or 1.1111kg /mm. Im thinking if one had the 1.0 spring that was a bit long they could use it to fabricate a stiffer spring if needed. I realize a custom spring seat would be required or some other creative solution to recreate the the flat coil on the end. Mabe something along the ideas of 'spring rubbers; could be used to alter the number of effective coils . I'm wondering how much travel there is in these springs before they coil bind. Its a long winter up here.

I'm kind of curious how you could get all of the oil an XX with them as the drain hole is horrizontal and the device would take up at least some space in the bottom of the hole . Any ideas ?

Lighter oil makes the forks more compliant, it removes both compression and rebound damping. People usually say the xx springs are too soft but also have 2 much compression damping.

Im happy the way my revalved f4 shock with the 1100 pound spring turned out. Im going to do some more tweaking of the compression stack this winter, its still a little stiff and im running the adjuster wide open. If you like to play it might be worth trying if like messing with stuff. I would be scared to rip a part a $1200 cdn ohlins but i have 2 spare f4 shocks besides the one im running. You can find them on ebay for abot $20, or at least you could last fall. Herb

I have pulled the cartridges and springs 3 or 4 times without removing the forks. One trick is to leave the caps on till you take out the bolt in the bottom. I think the spring preasure help keep the cartridge from turning. The only touble i have ever had leaving the forks on is the nose piece falling off the cartridge when you lower it it . I fished it with a wire , no big deal. Make sure you have a way to use your torque wrench when you tighten the 6 mm bolt. I forget the torque number but it was a lot higher then i dared tighten the 6mm bolt the first time with out the torque wrench. (it was weeping a bit till i use the torque wrench on it ) I just did it by feel the first time and got it too loose. Herb

The above question is mine, forgot to logo in !

f4 i shock fits with a .5 inch shim , but it needs a new spring and revalving.. not a good option unless you do it yourself...

Found silica free honda antifreeze at the car dealer for 15 bucks gallon of premix .. Not that pricy I Guess

I'm thinking pretsone 15/50 extended life if can find it . Its silica free according to prestone . Besides the honda antifreeze what is everyone else using ?

I think i found the cylinder head bolt on the fiche , its number 25 ? washer is 27 ? Thats my guess