XBBX

ok lemme know when you want to get er done.

Hi John, I'm in need of a CCT for my 98. Let me know how you want to proceed. Thanks, Wade wtempleton922@yahoo.com sorry for the hijack

I'm still baffled by people saying they get 10,000 miles out of a tire. I have never gotten more then 6,000 and average 5,000 miles a set. I've run Michelin PR, Metzlers Z6, Dunlop and Bridgestone Bt-021. Maybe it's the road surface out here or maybe the high road temps. The fronts always wear faster then the rears I think because of elevated cornering speeds and braking forces. I'm on a pair of Road Smarts and at 3,000 miles the front is almost gone. The rear still has a couple k left.

yep 2 out of 4 diaphragms shredded. I'm just gonna replace all 4 since I got it pulled apart. Honda shop here wants $100 bucks a piece....fack! I'll bring the Fatties anyway. Cheers

I think I found the problem. When I operate the slides manually, the 2 outside carb slides have resistance-against the diaphragm. The inside slides have no resistance-like the diaphragm has a tear. The 2 inside diaphragms prolly got real hot and brittle. I wont know until tonight when I have time to inspect them. Will give an update tomorrow.

Hey everybody, my 98 is suffering from lack of power above 5,000 rpm, especially when the throttle is whacked WFO. From idle to 4-5k it pulls hard so I'm pretty sure it's making good compression. Example: if I'm running 70mph in 6th gear and go WFO, it just CREEEEEEPS up to 100mph where in the past it would rocket to 150 pronto. I think the slides aren't operating correctly as this the range where the slides should go up bringing the needles up with it. I'm pretty sure the slides are vacuum operated. Is there anybody that can explain the slides and how they are supposed to work? Specifically the vacuum that is supposed to pull the slides up. There is a large diameter tube that runs from the airbox to the middle of the carb bank, just wondering if this where the vacuum is generated for the slides? I can operate the slides manually so there is nothing binding that I can see. The bike has 82,000 miles on it. Any advice is mucho mucho appreciated- and if a reply helps fix it you win a case of Fat Tire at the Colorado meet. Wade

that's a good place to start.... thx for the tip

Guys, I have 75,000 miles on the 98 Bird. Last summer I replaced the R/R and stator. A short time after that I noticed a decrease in power above 6,000 rpm. She pulls fine below that. It's just missing that rush of power above 6k she used to have. There's no misfire or anything. Maybe when the stator let go it damaged the coils? I'm thinking it's not a compression issue since she pulls clean up to 6k. Perhaps I need a valve adjustment? Maybe a fuel flow issue, I'm sure there's no fuel filter or fuel pump like on the FI Birds, but there is a tube that runs from the block to the carbs that I think provides vacumm-maybe replace that if it's old/cracked? Maybe a carb sync? I replaced the plugs last summer too. I don't think it's the clutch since the rpm doesn't wander or slip under acceleration. Any guidance or tips much appreciated.

Hey all, I have 75k on the old girl, she still runs great. I replaced the R/R and stator last fall, easy enough job. I noticed that the molex connector that terminates at the R/R is looking crispy due to the mentioned parts failing. I think I should rebuild the connector since I have new parts in. The crispy connections may affect the replaced parts? Should I order a new connector from Universal and then trim the spade ends off the wires and solder or crimp new spade connectors on the wires and reinsert in connector? thx for any advice

Just did a night ride and noticed that when I have a turn signal on my headlight goes dim/bright. The R/R is almost new. I guess I should check connections or did I get a bad R/R? hmmmmmm. I guess I'll get a meter on the output of the R/R with the bike running and the turn signal on........ any suggestions thx much...

sweet, I'll make a call in the morning.....thx

University Motors? I'll Google it. oh, mines a 98.

Greetings from my clouded confused mind.....Was out on the Bird when she died a few miles past 70k. Gauges started flaking out due to sub 12v. Shut her off to check battery connections but wouldn't fire after that. Fired after resting for 1 hour. When I got home, I charged the battery and reinstalled. I then put a meter across the battery with the bike running at about 2500 rpm and was not getting charging volts of 13+ DC. I originally thought reg\rec but when I measured the 3 leads from the stator I was not getting 50v AC. I measured resistance of stator coils and was good. Also checked for short to ground-also ok. Went over connectors from stator to reg\rec. I'm thinking I need to replace stator? Easy job but Honda wants $250 for the stator. Maybe I should check boneyard? thx for any reply....

hey mang...I did a search and didn't find the neato Warchild air filter replacement guide that I saw a few years ago. Anybody know where I can dig that up?...thx

thx guys...I figure with 54k on the bike, I might as well replace both. I'm riding out to Monterey for the GPs and coming home across the desert at night I could use some more candle power.

bottom bulb burned out yesterday. I called Fay Meyers and they have a stock H7 bulb for $20. Should I check other bulbs or stick with OEM? thx

Keep it moving....preferably at a high rate of speed.