PlasticxxHead

Staic Cling... No seriously They just slip -on and stay.. MAGIC..

I read the damn thread.. :twisted: IDEA ONE: Will this work.. have a shop bend the mid pipes for the mig mock up's then attach one 12" can on eaither side....AKA fake migs with the 12" cans?? Idea TWo: Bend the mid pipes "like " the migs , but instead of putting a can on ... put a 180 u bend the pipe under the seat.on either side.. then 180 ubend back to connect the two 12" cans under the seat.. lots of twisting but that should help reduce some sound.. I KNOW WE ARE JUST THROWING AROUND HYPOTHETICAL IDEAS, BUT THAT IS HOW GREAT MINDS DEVELOP GREAT IDEAS.. CHIILLLL BROTHER MAN.. WE JUST BANTERING.. PS YOU HAVE A PM..

Will buying a set of the cheap aftermarket sets lower the pegs enough?? As aposed to buying and moding the hd.. Just looking for about an inch down?

I am bidding on the tiny exhaust can.. JAson, will this thing work if I only use the one.. I was having Ideas of bending my own mid pipe, just like the MIGS and then putting a U bend at the top and bringing them back under the seat way up high, then joining the two pipes to the one small muffler way up under the seat..?? What do you think???

I thought about putting the pipes in where the light would be..how about putting the pipes outlets in the light spot for on of the under tail kits.. http://i23.ebayimg.com/02/i/02/25/15/26_1.JPG Could be cool, To Be Continued..[but would require major removal of everything in the tail....a huge job, but working on a frame set up out side of your bike wouls be a lot easier to work on , that mock up you have is a good idea.. I just don't have the resources or the work space or the second bike to do what I want, but hey I'm still young some day I will..

What if i used the hand jack style but heat ed the pipe with a torch first??

So those 16" long tappered pipes at JC are glass packed?? Won't several bands in a pipe reduce sound.. So if I take the side pipe up like MIGs then try to tuck them under can I still get away with the JC whit, 16" pipes?? Thanks for all your help .. this is great !!! :wink:

How about two of these from the side ports.. You could say good bye to your girl friends legs..

That is exxxxaaaccctttlllyyy the idea I was going for.. I look at my room under the tail and any kind of can would rub.. The oem cbr undertails are just what I was looking for.. But yeah they are gonna be too big.. Sooo You cut out your stock undertail to fit the JC whit's?? I called the company and they told me that the 12" were straight through with no packing.. Can I fiberglass pack those to quite those down..

I NEED ONE OF THESE.. I may be modifying my plans as any good artist would when a problem arises with a project...my undertail exhaust plans I am starting a new thread. Some one help me on where to get a 12 ton /16 ton pipe bender anrounf the Ny Nj Conn area. b/c shipping 86 lbs is crazy expensive????

I did that reaearch.. Looked at the cbr 929 rr undertail but the can is still to big.. I may be modifying my plans as any good artist would when a problem arises with a project... I am starting a new thread on where to get a 12 tom /16 tom pipe bender anrounf the Ny Nj Conn area. b/c shipping 86 lbs is crazy expensive. I NEED ONE OF THESE..

Don't you Fucking CUrse at me.. I haven't heard from you in weeks mister.. I have vital info you and we never talk any more.. :evil: So now I am looking for a set of headers that will allow one outlet on the right hand side then I will bend ONe pipe under neath.. Joe how tight of an angle can I get bending pipe with the hydralic hand bender.. Do you know where I can get on or who has one.. PS have you HEARD A SET OF D&D's lately??? I don't want people to think I am riding a chainsaw...

tanks Jason. All good on the sticks.. take your time.. I have been toying around with the idea for some time.. I know it is a huge job, but hey I'm young maybe by the time I'm Carlo's age I can have a sweet under tail.. I am gonna track down JOJO for a reference on the kit he posted.. Thanks for the help.. I would love some direction, right now I am just a kid with a dream..

PICS :worthless: I got the idea but how small can I make it and WILL there be enough back pressure to get the performance we crave out of it..

I just called JC whit.. THERE ARE NO BAFFLES WHAT SO EVER in side those pipes.. They are straight shots all the way through.. They do sell fiber glass packing sheets.. Can I pack stright pipes with the fiberglass stuff and get enough back pressure??? Byrdman, did you polish you rims your self( if so where did you buy the compound and buffing pads?>?)

well done dion.. I'll call them.

is my best bet using a really small can instead of straight pipes and packing??

I am trying to put together the parts for an undertail.. I want to bend the pipes myself, but the can is what is giving me the trouble.. I can't find a small enough can to fit under the brake light .. I don't want to cut my undertail out.., SO.. I have been reading up on pipe inserted baffles. the kind they use on harley staight pipes to give back pressure and noise reduction.. Can I pull two raw pipes under my tail and stick baffles in them to give me the back pressure needed and sound reduction?>??? if i can then I'll just angle off the tips and polish the whole set... something like these: Any help out there?? oh yeah When there done they'll cost you guys $7,000 a set..

I am looking for a kit I can use to polish some random harware and the lips of my rims.. I got the concept down pretty well.. Coarse to fine buffing pads and a progression of differnt compounds along the way... Can you use a standard power drill for the buffer or do you need some high end power tool?? Where can one find a set(pads and compounds) for under $100 that will give a decent finish??

Those instructions are for the stock screw that the origianl honda bars ends go into.. What might help is: Remove the entire piece, internal shaft and bar end.. Put it all together out side the bike.. HOLD the internal shaft with a set of visegrips and tighten the outer hex bolt to expand the rubber oring that will sit inside the bars enough to make a snug fit inside them.. Them slowly ans patiently work the whole unit in... tighten the outside hex bolt until you get the inside rubber ring to catch... this whole thread is getting too sexual.... good luck with your rubber..

I have my organic chemistry final tues. 4,4,3 trimethyl-1 bromo decene....try drawing that one. then tell me if it reacts with HBr makovnakov or anti..

http://cbr.geckobox.net/forum/viewtopic.ph...5328&highlight= Check out.. Blackbirdspares.... for I can't thank them enough.. BUY THE R/R with the cooling fins...The heat is what makes them blow in the first place...

If you have a stock set up with no pipes and no jet stick with the stock filter. I have stock everything but the K&N and it lags a bit. Jetting and pipeing in the spring.

I have PURPOSEFULLY laid the bike down with my sliders to see how they would react.. The right side is okay.. the lower fairing will still scrape, but the laft side. the metal crank cover scrapes. I am thinking about a set of lower bobbins to have the bird rock between them.Mine are engine bolts.. I have yet to use them in a real situation.... knock on wood. http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b4cf0...8e5930000001610

how much is this gonna cost me joe?? ps can we take on a couple passengers to Fl with us??