Nova Scotia Mike

That's very generous of you Dave, well done.

I'm over gps'd right now as I have an older 255w and recently picked up a 60csx that I'm still tinkering with. But are lifetime maps transferable between owners? Do you need the box to get them?

This might be a dumb question (and I have nothing to sell you either way) but does it actually have to be the right seat? What if you just smooshed on any old cbr/gsxr/etc seat. Would anyone know or care?

Steal wife's juice jug? Old oil bottles? Some fancy purpose specific product I've never noticed at supply stores? Thanks

110k on an oem chain?! What's your maintenance drill?

Thanks for verifying all, I'll take that wheel please ... If still up for grabs and shipping isn't coocoobananas.

The rear wheel on my 2000 has a nice bend in the lip (like PO hit a big pothole or something). It's not given me any grief during the life of the two rear tires I've put on the bike since I've owned it, but I've never liked having the bend ... Can anyone verify that all XX rear wheels the same? (dumb question alert) My wheelset is also gray in color (i have blue plastics) ... I'm assuming I can have XX wheels powder coated or painted easily to be a matching color, no?

Hi, So my 2003 DRZ-400S has sat more than it's been ridden. 1yo battery on trickle charger at least monthly. Yesterday I go to start it in the first time in forever and it acts fucky. Lights are bright, horn honks with as much authority as it ever did (like a duck with no nuts quacking), but the bike barely turns over when the starter plunger is stabbed. It gave a couple of seemingly struggling clicks then was able to turn the engine over and it fired up on the second or third roll over. I let it warm up fully then rode it ~30mins to the gas station for a top up of high test. Same fuckiness to get it going after refueling. Half back home, I pulled in the clutch and killed the engine then restated while still rolling; seemed to fire up well. I rode up a dirt trail hill for 5 minutes, then turned around and coasted down killing the engine and re-starting multiple times. I was hoping maybe the switch or started had slightly corroded up from extended sitting in my damp basement, but the same fuckiness did not seem to go away. Suggestions? Thanks, Mike

I'll bid $100 on jacket #5 please. Hanger nipples sound hawt. Thanks

With a fresh oil change (Motul synth) and a new double green dot oem cct, I'm totally back into sewing machine quiet engine mode. Love it.

Thanks. WD40 didn't do much at all (although i did not leave it on there for very long) and I'm hesitant to break out oven cleaner and razor blades. I'll try contacting the road crew to see what they say and take it from there. Thanks

Fingernail? Some magic chemical? Fuck it, leave it on there? It's a treasure trail wide strip behind front tire and I prefer the clean shaven look. Just curious if any of you have safely removed this stuff from bike plastic before and how you did it. Thanks

I'm replacing mine today, right now, too actually at 32,000 kms and hoping it will make my engine sound like a sewing machine. So far it has taken me more time to get the plastic off (first time I've done it) than to remove the cct. Are there manually tensioned versions as options too? Opinions on manual ones?

I do most of my OEM Honda parts from Honda Directline but that is because of a long history with the owners and most importantly they are local to me. Forget about dealing with anyone else listed above including Directline and deal direct with someone who actually cares about you and your BlackBird. Scott's quote of $280.00 is better than you will ever get someplace else and he cares. Star City Powersports Just do it! I bet he could easily enough verify the correct color as well. Out of curiousity, I'm in Canada and have a blue XX ... I think it was perhaps not released in US in this color. Does this mean you guys can't order parts in these color? Local dealer quoted me $600 + tax for front cowl ...

Thanks NZG. I have and use them both of those on the bike already ... I gues I was just wondering if there was some secret magical fluid to use on the bike that everyone else but me knew about. I'm going to need to remove the caliper to clean this thing I'm thinking so as to keep the rotor clean ... I'm hoping I can get it off without having to push the cruddy piston in too far; don't want to knick the seals and end up with a leak. Maye I can clean it up a bit on the bike and clean the rotor afterwards. Holy crap, I'm totally talking to myself here, wtf.

Sorry for bumping a 4 year old thread, but why start a new one? I need to replace my rear pads. First time fore me on an XX but it seems pretty normal despite the fancy linked gizmo. I here looking and typing because I've noticed a lot of gunk on my rearmost piston and was wondering what was the best way to remove it. A couple shots of brake cleaner have it looking better but there is still some light rust looking crud on there. I do have all sorts of brushes, but am unsure of what rubber safe solvent to use. Anyone have any specific suggestions? Thanks

Thanks for the additional info. I'll give these iridiums a shot .... I like my local shop a lot, it's a place I know the owner by name from going on groups rides with him, but it's hard knowing they charge at least a 300% mark up on such things. $7 plugs via interweb vs $17 plugs from local shop .... At least I won't have to think about this for 30k+ ...

I just bought new plugs for my XX not more than a half hour ago. There was some confusion at the parts counter at my favorite local independant though. My Haynes manual indicates that my 2000 XX calls for a currently discontinued plug; CR9EHVX-9. George, the parts counter guy looked it up in his NGK book which indicated a supercede on my d/c'd plug to a plain Jane non-platinum version, the CR9EH-9 which he had on hand and that go for ~$17 a pop. He said the plain Jane was a regularly stocked plug as all the f4's and other similar 600's use them. The NGK book also indicated the "premium" plug option for my bike was the Iridium tipped plug that my Haynes indicates is called for by XX 2001 and onwards. Parts counter George then said, "Hmmm, that's weird, the Iridium ones are the same price as the plain Jane's?" ... so I got him to order me the Iridium ones at ~$17 a pop. They'll be here early next week. So the advantage as far as I can tell of switching to Iridiums is a longer service interval, right?

I've got a Honda OEM r/r on the way (to arrive at local dealer on Friday) for $202 CDN ($235 taxes in). It looks like my bike might have the original battery in it (YUASA with Honda logo on it) which is still bench testing fine; 12.8 V DC days after being taken off the charger and I took it into a local shop who load tested it for me. If the battery is actually shit, can I fry my new r/r by running them together? thx

Hi, Some I've noticed a few spots on my rear sub frame that have some surface rust spots that I'd like to clean up. They don't seem so bad that I feel it I need to go through the effort of removing it, stripping it completely and having it completely done. I think I could probably take care of them (at least temporarily) on bike by sanding, priming (?) and touching up. Is that simple of an approach effective? what kind of paint would be best? What would be the best way to apply? Thanks

Howdy, You all seem like a handy bunch. I'm looking to upgrade my tool collection a bit and the first place I want to start is at my screwdrivers. Over the years, I've cobbled together a mismatched collection of screwdrivers that I can seem to use to get whatever job I need done in most cases, but they are of lesser quality and are showing their age. So, what makes a great screwdriver great? I almost gave in to an impulse buy yesterday in the hardware store as they had a 75 piece screwdriver set on sale for 60% off ... I backed off at the last second realizing I don't really know what qualities to look for in a set to end up with a great set. With 75 pieces I figured there'd be a lot of crap in there that I'd never used. Related, it seems like most Jap bikes I have/had use Phillips head fasteners that have a little "+" indicated on the head. Is this a special sort of Phillips head? I think I knew the answer to this question at one time, but excessive substance abuse over the years seems to have purged that info from my receding memory bank. Thanks

I'm in a similar boat right now too so I appreciate this thread. I dug out the old multimeter that was stolen from my high school oh so many years ago (20? wow). It was a good thing to steal; for Radio Shack gear, it's worked fine for all the neglect it's gotten from me over the years. Anyways, I got 17.X V AC at idle from all combos of the yellow wires and 50+ V AC at 4000 rpm. The r/r tests seemed a bit confusing for my feeble brain so upon consultation with some other online moto guru's I'm gonna order a new Honda r/r on Tuesday first thing, with crossed fingers.

I know I'm looking at 8 month old posts, but I wanna see your fancy shitter Carlos. All I see is red x's and these guys sound like they wanna fuck you after seeing that shitter. I'm assuming it's at the old house ... any plans for the new?