exskibum
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Posts posted by exskibum
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Nice gloves, but are those acceptable wear for the new Harley Gay-ster?
I'm thinking those would work nicely on the ST or on a new GT-14, but I'm pretty sure it's the logo that counts on the Gay-ster.
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Yep, nothing but great experiences with them, myself.
Funny thing, though -- I don't recall them selling that cheesy, fringe laden, bare assed chaps kinda Hardley apparel. And I've never seen any Motor Company logos on their stuff or the kind of markups that would require, either. Or were you shopping for the Sport Touring side of your personality, Sybil . . . er . . . Dave?
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He might have a few left but after all the FU's by Cariblahblah Mike stopped being a distributor for them. At least thats what he told me when I was at his shop last week.
They are REALLLLLLY sweet wheels.
WOW -- I didn't realize he had finally had it. Mike was the sole reason that I ended up with the clear anodized rims (like Byrdman posted above). Very sweet wheels for the money, but without Mike in the equation, I wouldn't take a chance on dealing directly with Carozzerria. FWIW, when Mike handled the Group Buy, 6 inch wheels (for 190s) were one of the options.
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You had me at "Group Buy", WC . . . except that I already have one. So, I'll take "Hookers" please.
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And an even better price:
http://www.ridenowonline.com/product_resul...ed-1e3235d8c03d
(Thinking about scoring a pair of Powers for the XX and a pair of Roads for the FJR, even though I don't need them right now.)
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I think from reading the press material, that the center is like a regular Power, and the sides are softer...
While I couldn't be sure, I got that same impression, Mike. And thanks for that feedback, Dave -- you guys have probably had them longer down under than we've had them available here. I sure wish they'd give us the compound and profile of a Pilot Power coupled with a center band of a Pilot Road compound. To me, that seems like it would be a perfect tire for the rear of a Blackbird, especially with a regular Power up front.
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Anyone run the Pilot Power 2CT yet?? That's the dual compound, softer on the shoulders tire they have had out for at least a part of this riding season. I really like the Powers on my XX, but the rear tire only goes about 4,000 miles on the Bird.
What I'm wondering, and can't tell from the Michelin and tire suppliers' sites, is how the center and shoulder compounds compare to a regular Pilot Power. I.e., is the center the same and the shoulders softer, or are the shoulders of the tire comparable to a Pilot Power and the center comparable to a Pilot Road? I'd be really interested in this tire if it's the best of both worlds: P.R. like in the center, with the grip of the Power on the shoulders.
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Damn, broke the 200 mark today!
198! First time since I was in my mid 20's have I been below 200!
That is completely awesome. You are my hero; I would kill to break into the 200lbs range again!
Related subject:
Today, I joined a 4-man team at work in a company-wide "Weight-Loss" contest as part of the United Way campaign drive.
Teams were weighed today, and will be weighed again at the end of the month. The team that looses the highest percentage of weight will win various sundry prizes.
The weigh-in was a fucking riot (well... sorta): what they did was have all teams meet at the shipping warehouse dock, where we had to all climb onto one of those massive freight scales (the floor of the scale was 5'x5'!
) to get one total combined weight.Before stepping on the scale, the four of us were joking around, teasing each other that our combined weight would break into the 4-digit range.
We stopped laughing when we watched the digital reading climb and climb and climb....... holy fucking shit, 936.3lbs, combined!
Our goal is to at least get below 900lbs combined.... somewhere in the 880-890 range would be a feat, given that all four of us are software engineers, sitting in front of a computer all day. Adding to the challenge is that, while two of our team members are in there late 20's, I'm the second oldest at 48, the 4th member is 51. Y'all know how relatively easy it is to lose weight in your 20's.. and how difficult it can be for the post-40 crowd.... :icon_wall:
Anyway, this should be good....
Shoulda waited a few months to shave your head.
Yesterday, I saw 188 on the scale after a run. Woke up at 190 this morning (after a weekend of drinking with other FJR owners in Red Bluff and Fortuna). Getting there.
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I've gotten about 4000 miles out of Michelin Pilot Powers and Pilot Sports on the rear of an XX. 6000 to 8000 out of the fronts.
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I had trouble finding the correct Pazzo levers to fit my master cylinder that I thought came from a CB400SF, 5/8" bore. Mike sent me a total of 3 levers to try, turns out to be the F-18 perch that fits...same as the CBR600Fi. My fault for not doing enough research, I ordered the one for the CBR954, but Mike helped out anyway. This is the kind of person I want to do business with!
Porter
+1
That was my experience with Mike on the Pazzos, the Traxxion and Penske set up and on the otherwise problem fraught Carozzerria buy. Stand up guy who knows his stuff.
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I'm sure someone has asked this before but I'll ask again. Anyone running a Micron 4-2-1 System. I am considering it, and how do you like, (sound versus HP) any maps for it?? Thanx for the info and help in advance.
Vic......
Yep -- love the sound. There's a few of us running that setup. I'm running a CF can on my '03 with a PCIII USB and the canned map for the Erion 4-2-1. I haven't gotten around to doing the Accel. Pump add on to the map, but I'm told that makes it even better, so that'll be part of this winter's maintenance, upgrades, repairs, etc.
Do a search for the topic here in the garage and you'll see more, including hte specific number for the map that was recommended by Dynojet when I asked them.
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HECS
in The Garage
The non-California US ones do not, but I'm not sure about european and CA ones...And I *think* that it was only the '03 California US models that had them, after which they stopped importing Birds into the US, of course. On my California model '97 (departed about 6 weeks ago now), I believe that the only additional smog equipment was a charcoal cannister and the piping/valving associated with it. Like Mike, I have no idea about equipment on models imported to other countries.
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Down to 192 today. Running and/or lifting almost every day. Living by myself now, I don't have red vines, chocolate and other empty snack carbs in the house. Getting down to and staying between 173 and 179 is my goal, and I expect to be there and strong by the time the lifts open. If it wasn't so smoky here today, I'd planned to do my usual 56 or 57 minute run and had hoped to see the scale show something south of 190 when I got back (yeah, I know that'd be water loss, but it's kinda like a golf handicap -- you see it once and know that it won't be long before it's the norm on the way even lower).
Kinda like Steve, one of my motivations is that I have a lot of clothes that fit me at my target weight, including some nice stuff I bought 3 years ago and don't want to replace. Never thought I'd backslide again, but I was around 200 most of 2006. Main motivation is feeling good, sense of well being, warding off depression, enhanced energy, etc.
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It's a 2001 Yamaha R1 regulator that is recommended as best. Do a search for the topic in the Garage here. IIRC, we had a good discussion on it sometime around February or March of this year. I know I posted the Yamaha part number, the fact that THE place to get it is from Gary at University Motors, his contact info, AND a link to a great article on the R1 mod (within which is a link to an article by the same guy on why and how R/Rs fail, along with the tell tale diagnostics). Not that all of this hasn't been discussed here before or since, but I recall that thread as a pretty good symopsis that'll probably answer all your R/R questions, including the pros and cons of doing the mod.
EDIT to add link to that thread:
http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...mp;hl=regulator
and to the two articles I mentioned:
http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/...a/dead_reg.html
http://www.vlc.com.au/~justin/about/bikes/...eg_replace.html
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"02 Fastest" What do you mean fastest? Im a newbe to XX please help.
Insiders joke -- we all tease one another that our bike's color is the fastest. I've had a '97 and an '03, both of which are black. So . . . naturally, black is the fastest color, no matter what others will tell you.
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"New to Bikes"?? Exactly what do you mean by that?
If you really have little or no experience riding motorcycles, I doubt anyone here would recommend a Blackbird as a first bike, even if it is a great deal. It IS a bike that is REALLY easy to get into a lot of trouble on -- even an 80 to 100HP bike can get you into a lot of trouble, but this thing makes almost 140 HP at the rear wheel when it is completely stock. Unless and until your motorycle handling skills are instinctive, this is one of the very last bikes I'd recommend buying (along with the Hayabusa, ZX 11, 12 and 14, and any of the liter sport bikes out now).
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I just bought one a OEM at $180. I was told not to do after markets they go out quicker.
I had the electrix aftermarket replaced under warranty twice. Finally I got my money back a got the OEM. So far no problems.
I was told that the more you ride the less of a chance of it going bad. Can anyone support that theory?
It's more like the more work the RR has to do charging/running things the faster it will go.
If you have your battery on a tender all the time it will keep it topped off and the RR won't have to do that. If you run alot of power items, heated clothes, electronics etc, it will draw more power. If you drive in stop and go traffic alot this will cause a drain on the battery as the fan will have to come on and at idle the bike uses power rather than making it.
That's my understanding too. I recall reading an article that suggested that if your bike was used mostly for short stop rides (like you would use a Harley to bar hop or go to the hardware store), the R/R life will be significantly lowered. Something about the amount of current drawn to start it so many times drains the battery, and the charge is not adequately replenished on those short rides, so it's exactly as XX Rider says -- the R/R is working all the time.
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Suckage of the large and troubling variety, sir!
I'm going to guess, Keith: R/R is my first guess, followed very closely by stator. But what do the connectors look like that attach to your R/R? Any discoloration or burning?? If so, I'm leaning harder to the R/R than the stator.
That's an '03 you're riding, right? How many miles on it?? Thinking you want to ping Warchild on this 'un -- he's done some testing of higher output Stators on the FJR and loads up his stators with electric underpanties and all sort of juice drawing LD farkles -- so he's about as familiar with real time voltage readings and what they mean as anyone on the boards. I can tell you, mostly from reading his testing posts, that the voltage numbers you were showing were WAAAAYYYYY low and unhealthy. (Something you wouldn't have known if I hadn't said, huh?
)EDIT to note: reading below: Joe may also be guessing, but it's probably more educated than my guessing. Hope he's wrong about the stator, though.
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First thing to do is to read a bit about airbox resonance and how much modifying that airbox is likely to cost you HP if you aren't an automotive engineer capable of redesigning the system to make it work even as well as Honda's R&D did.
Back a few decades ago -- before airboxes were such a well integrated part of the gas flow performance picture on bikes, putting K&N pod filters on a bike didn't hurt performance much (though it seldom really improved anything). Nowadays, all you're likely to do is screw it up and wonder why there are flat spots in performance and your buddy's Bandit is now kicking your Bird's ass.
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bypass hose from waterpump???
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Does this means there's too much air right now? But when I'm riding it seems the engine will pick up a tiny bit better when I closed one airintake with my hand. :icon_think:
Yes........there's too much air, so when you close one air intake, it runs better.
Technically, its running lean at those speeds.
+1 The carbed 97 and 98 weren't designed to run with a rammed air box. There are clear plastic vanes inside the fairing to deflect the air coming in to the oil cooler away from the airbox -- for this reason, I think.
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Going up one tooth in the rear doesn't seem like it would make that much difference.
Exactly -- I didn't want to have to run 5000 rpms at freeway cruising speeds, drop MPG substantially or have the front end coming up all the time -- just wanted something small as an edge, not a big ratio change. I neglected to mention that this accompanied installation of a Micron 4-2-1 and a PCIII.
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When I put the Carozzerria wheels on, I went up a tooth, from 45 to 46, in the rear and left the front alone. I didn't want to compromise top end much and just wanted that very slight difference in pulling power on acceleration through the midrange that might give me a slight advantage. Advantage over what? Dunno -- not like I race anyone, but I can't leave well enough alone, and it does get ouot of its own way pretty well. Then I put on a speedo healer to have the speedo read right.
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I must be an idiot.
I don't know -- I didn't say that, but OK if you say so. Go ahead and get pissed off -- those questions demonstrated a lack of experience wrenching on a bike or much anything else. Either that or you're smoking some good stuff and you need to share with the rest of the board.
I guess wanting to get it right the first time means I have no business working on this aspect of the bike in the first place. As far as the wrench size, I meant to type 8.5mm, not 3.5 mm.I have eliminated the freeplay only when the steering head is turned completely to the left (without revving), but there is still 1/8" of play in all other steering positions.
Really?? If that's true, then how could you NOT know which way to turn it? And if you'd ever adjusted a throttle cable, why in the hell would you have to ask (as opposed to just turning it and observing what happens to the free play)??? It's not even close to complicated. :icon_think:
Not sure I've ever seen an adjuster in line on a throttle cable that didn't adjust exactly the same way, with only minor variations in the execution of the same theme: loosen the locking nut and turn the adjuster to extend the cable sheath. For the Bird, it's 10 mm for the locking nut, 8 mm for the hex adjuster. Why would you NEED to ask that? BTW, I've seen the pretty rare 5.5 mm size, but never a 8.5 mm, much less a tiny 3.5 mm. Not saying that such tool sizes don't exist for specialty applications, but for motorcycles?
I guess I should take it to the dealer, right?I'd say so, in fact, I did.
Colorite
in The Garage
Posted
I think that may have more to do with it being a metallic color. Hard to EVER get a metallic to match when dobbed on, especially a light colored metallic. Airbrush touch up might make it better, but the truth is that you'll never really MATCH a metallic without repainting the panel.