Dion

Guy had the CF wheels on a duc at beaver 2 years ago. He went straight instead instead of making turn 1 and the wheels disintegrated on him in the infield. He was not happy. Has no relevance to the question at hand but what the hell.

Don't put it on Ebay yet Dave. I have to deal with the ex next week but I'll be in touch.

Actually the recommended range for power race tires is 21-24R 30F (the rears have a stiffer sidewall) Powers I run@ 29-31F/R Of course I'm checking them with an IR thermometer right of the track and adjusting all day. For hard riding on the bird try 32F/34R (this is with powers) You've got to check and tweek. ymmv

Not mine but I'll be picking up a bike from this guy Friday. If someone wants me to grabit for them let me know.

Very bad balance point! Ask me how I dodged a bullet. Get a piece of rebar, pipe, rod whatever and run it through the swing arm pivot and support it with a couple jackstands.

Just change them as a set

Actually the easiest way to change your chain and sprockets is to ride to NEXXT and say "Hey Rich, can you help me out"

This^^^^^ Or remove one caliper and use channel locks carefully on the old pad and body, rinse and repeat. If your pads are that worn you may want to make sure there's no scoring on the rotors.

That's cause you're suppose to replace the cans with ones made for the ducati

Starting with a clean chain ride it to get it up to temp. Lube with whatever lube/wax you prefer and wipe the excess off. In other words, lube it after the ride. Warm chain flows the lube better and wiping the excess off helps keep shit from sticking to it and reduces splatter on the rear rim and front sprocket area.

that's the one think I thought of right away too was mounting a 170 to an XX rim. You always hear talk of mounting a 190 but never the other way. Maybe I'll measure a 170 & 180 at a local shop and see what widths I come up with on unmounted tires. thanks That may or may not be of any help, cause the tire shape will change when mounted. Like said, rim width will affect tire shape when mounted. The tire'll fit but you won't be happy and you'll lose contact patch. Use a 6mm shim on the rear shock and the drop the front end 3-4mm. that'll give you what you're looking for.

Well these got sold to somebody. :icon_silenced:

I have a 2000 taillight

I thought that died when Pres. Bush let the clinton gun ban die (didn't renew). MA, NY, CA, NJ and I think CT have there own that didn't expire.

Why can't he keep them? His gun only take used? To be legal in NY they have to be manufactured before a certain date...I believe. Manufactured BEFORE they were outlawed. Look at mister gun guy

A guy a work got a really good deal on some AR15 mags. The bad news is they're brand new manufacture and he can't keep them. If any one in one of the free states wants em he's got 5 for $60.00 to your door. He's just looking to get his money back. PM me and I can put you guys together. They're D&H

Given the fact that it's the other guys fault and insurance and add to the fact that you can't buy an XX any more I would tell the adjuster to get fucked and that you want it rebuilt or replaced. Oh and just because 2 bros doesn't sell the pipe any more doesn't mean they can't make you a new one. It's the other guys problem and not yours if insurance will only come up with so much. He'll have to make up the difference. But that's just my opinion and I'm a cranky fuck.

Honestly, unless a particular brand is sponsoring you or paying contingencies buy what ever is on sale and just change it often.

+1

Here ya go.... http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...47519&st=20 And some of the Florida boys can probably bring em back for you NEXXT week.

I like Chris' answer best BUT!, properly stated scientificly would be

Plus one on that man. Magnaflux would be ignorant unless you think there is a crack and in that case unless you have a magnaflux machine, dye penetrant would be the best cost effective way to look for a leak. I do, every 4-5 years pop the pistons our using comressed air adn give it all a loook. It's just maint practice. Heck ya fork oil all the damn time, seals when needed. Steering head as needed as well. Some folks treat a motorcycle as an entire system with each component needing service and maint. others barely keep proper air pressure in the tires. It's just a matter of what your levle of commitment to the bike is. A turbo and extended swing arm would be cool too! I'd keep the stock one though. I've done the buffing/sanding of the disks to help bed in new pads and I've not touched them too and I liked it better not touching the rotors....just insert disks and ride it. Personal preference. Here that Joe, you're ingnorant Oh and the whole buffing sanding thing is to remove pad residue not to help bed them. It's required if you're changing from metalic to organic pads or vice versa. But if you do it everytime you change from HH's to HH's it will take longer to condition the discs.

What the fuck is a water grain?????

Correct me if I'm wrong but can't you just replace the bearings, spacers and rotors as needed?

Just to clearify, Pilot powers run 30-32 Power Race run 21-24 REAR only, 30-32 front.