XXTi

His bike is an FI model guys. The vacuum operated petcock is only on the carb'ed models.

You will smell alot of fuel if you crank it and the vacuum line is kinked or plugged back on the wrong spot ... the little vacuum line goes on the little picket on the side facing the front of the bike .... it is common for people to put it on the little nub on the bottom of the petcock. His bike doesn't have a petcock.

Penske's (and possibly others) are adjustable for ride height (shock length).

You should have the shock configured for the way you normally expect to ride. (With gear, rack, etc.)

Penske makes good shocks for our bikes too.

I took mine out the front and reinstalled it the same way.

I coated one side of mine with red high temperature Perma-Tex. I used the same stuff on the half moons. Probably not the most elegant solution, but it held the gasket in place and it doesn't leak.

I installed a new EK ZZZ chain the other day. High quality stuff IMHO. I bought it from Parts411 and got it in a couple of days.

How much would a set cost us Alex? They look great and there may be several guys interested if you want to sell a few sets.

I don't believe the carb'ed XX's had ram air to the airbox. The ducts go to the oil cooler IIRC.

The tiny bubbles were probably coming around the bleeder threads. If the clutch works OK, don't worry about it.

Get a couple of cans for the front brakes and the clutch line. Get a couple of more for the rear system. I replaced my brake lines so all the fluid was out by default. Use a Mity-Vac or something similar to bleed the brakes. Get a copy of the procedure from the Honda service manual and follow that sequence when bleeding. (Hint: A copy of the service manual is in the Garage section.)

I've had one of these for several months. I guess I better get it out and install it. I got the Pro-Oiler, a Hawke Oiler and a set of horns in a package. I've been debating which oiler to use. I think the Pro-Oiler is the ticket.

Our electric heat/heat pump did the same thing once. It turned out to be a bad circuit breaker in the main house "fuse" box.

I just got about 7500 miles on a rear Avon. It stuck well enough for the way I ride and was very predictable. I just put a new one on.

If I need Snap-On service, I try to find a guy on a Snap-On route around town. I'll meet him with the broken tool and get an immediate replacement.

If it won't even sputter using starter fluid, it sure sounds like an ignition problem to me. If it ran before you took the tank off and won't run now, it seems reasonable that something you did during the process is causing the trouble. Coil wires touching metal, cross wired, etc. Can you pull a plug wire off and see if you are getting a spark?

Are you still running the SuperBrace with the new fork mods Dale?

Someone posted a link for these at JC Whitney the other day. I think they were about $6 for a bag of ten.

I just drove mine out with a long punch and a hammer. It kills the old bearing, but you're gonna trash them anyway. It was a little tough to get them started coming out. I pushed the spacer to one side and swatted the bearing races with the punch and hammer. Move your punch from side to side to keep the bearings coming out straight and they'll pop right out.

I'm using a Galfer clutch line. I don't notice a difference between it and the stocker.

I'd call them and explain the problems you're having. If the same guy(David) is still running the place, I'll bet he makes it right with you.

I bought my Pyramid at StreetFightersbyDesign. I found them on the net and dealt with the owner. His name is David and he was a great guy to do business with.

I assume the bike ran OK before you removed the tank and airbox. 1) Did you have the plug wires off? If so, did you reinstall them correctly? 2) Did you pull the coils to remove the airbox? If so, did you accidentally knock one of the wires off? Is one of the coils wires grounded out or touching the frame somehow?

I'm about to remove an Avon 46 on the rear with about 7500 on it. It's down to the wear indicators.