paul99xx
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Posts posted by paul99xx
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2 minutes ago, Zero Knievel said:
Hoping not to have to drive two hours.
That’s a no go on HD. The local shop turned my massage therapist’s husbands oil change into a $3,000 repair job, and there was stuff they did I see no way to ever justify doing for an oil change.
What did they break?
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These are pretty good at finding engine noises, otherwise put the handle of a screwdriver in your ear and press the tip to the suspect area of the engine. My first bb had a noisey clutch, nothing to worry about.
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I've got them on all my bikes, doubles the usual life of the chains for me so pays for itself pretty easy and hassle free.
I use the scott oil, i tried a few different trani fluids but couldn't seem to get the right consistency and went back to scott.
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2 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
Here's my flushing method: Suck the old fluid out of the reservoir and refill, not necessary, but it speeds things up rather than waiting for the old fluid to go though the bleeders. It also lets you suck up the sludge that tends to accumulate on the bottom of the reservoir. Open bleeder(s) and add fluid to the reservoir as needed while it drains. Letting gravity do the bleeding makes it easier and more foolproof than pumping. Once clean fluid is flowing from the bleeders you're done. Optional; put a small piece of hose on the bleed nipples to guide the fluid into a container and reduce the mess all over the caliper. After closing the bleeder gently bend/pry the hose off the nipple and it won't make a mess. Beer is technically optional, but it gives you something to do while watching the fluid flow.
+1
I was trying to say that above, much better explanation. Definitely go tubes, brake fluid eats paint. And you can see the colour of the fluid easier. For the clutch have to put a board under left side of centre stand to get resevour level with bars full lock to the right.
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10 hours ago, silverbird1100 said:
Sounds good will one bottle be enough?
More than enough, dot 3 or 4 good. Stay away from dot 5.
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20 minutes ago, silverbird1100 said:
If I really stomp on it I think it slows the bike as it should. It just takes way more pressure that it should.
If I really stomp on mine I can lock the back wheel.
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14 minutes ago, silverbird1100 said:
I think the fluids are original, I haven't have it for long but the fluids look good so I haven't tried that yet. Plus the front lever works so well but I'll try and flush the whole system. Anything I can do to the caliper that isn't too invasive?
@Furbird How can I investigate the rear master? Bike only had 8K on it and everything else is literally perfect.
So really old fluid, they recomment changing every 2 years, it absorbes moisture. First I'd flush the system. I like to syringe everything out of the masters and replace, replace cap on resevoir then open nipple with a tube on it, gently squeeze lever and tighten nipple while lever compressed. Or just open nipple and let it bleed itself, check back every 10 minutes and top up resevoir. Can't recall servicing the pins, it's been a while and memory failing
But if you get someone to press on brake pedal while you hold the caliper you should feel a tiny amount of movement.
Anyway while bleeding and squeezing pedal you should get an idea if any of the pistons are seized.
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Rear caliper only has a piston on one side so caliper has to slide on pins when activated, so it could be this action that's jamming or piston inside caliper or master. Agree with above, the front is only a small percentage transfer.
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Should be enough to hold you on a hill, how long since the fluid was changed? Sounds like something might be sticking, caliper or a piston. I'd start with flushing the system. Even with glazed pads there should be enough to hold it on a hill.
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You shouldn't need to remove the forks to check if they're straight, just loosen the clamps and see if they turn in the clamps. Good luck with your project.
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Oops it's glue, plenty on youtube if you search hail damage repair.
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I'd buy it for the right price regardless of whether they can be fixed. But pretty sure theres some tech available to uses a suction cup to pop them out. No doubt amazon will have them.
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2 minutes ago, OMG said:
+1
But what chain oil do you put in it?
I've tried lots, any more I put in whatever is handy.
I tried auto tranny fluid, after readying that's what the scottoiler stuff is but wasn't happy with it, so I went back to the red scottoiler oil.
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Scottoiler easily the best way to go, non stick so doesn't turn into grinding paste, cleans the chain as you go, lubes regardless of whether you can be bothered or not
Just top up every now and then.
I had the same thing with a chain, cleaned it with kero, lubed, was fine after that.
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2 hours ago, OMG said:
Any thoughts on using Anti wear additives vs friction modifiers?
Products?
You have to watch out for friction modifiers, they may make your clutch slip.
Apparently in some cases you can get away with it. If you want a long read -
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Oh and post up pics before and after
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If the master cylinder is nasty you're overdue to flush the whole system. I'd draw out as much of the old fluid with a syringe, try to disturb the slug on the botton with the end of the syringe, fill with clean fuid and repeat if necessary then flush the whole system with clean brake fluid. Keep going till the clean fluid is coming out of the bleed nipples.
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This might be worth a look.
https://motowheels.com/c-1205751.2-parts-wheels-tires-oz-wheels-oz-gass-rs-a-wheels.html
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Interesting mirrors, anyone know what they are?
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So close.
I don't get making a fast bike into a street figher.
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WTF i was going to post it's not a ducati, all bb should have huge miles on them by now. Seems i'm mistaken
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Here's an example of what happens with the cheaper technology lithium battery.
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/56-superbikes/665361-had-fricking-bike.html
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Not all lithium batteries are created equal, shorai uses the best technology, they don't catch on fire, alot of the other brands use the lesser tech, like the phones that go up.
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I've thought about delinking too mostly for the extra weight but it weighs so much anyway i wouldn't notice the difference
Seems to work ok for normal riding and the occasional racing a kid
De-linking brakes
in The Garage
Posted
I was tempted to de-link too but gradually grew to love the stock brakes.