twodealdrive

My '99 does it too, it seems to be a precursor to the low fuel light coming on because the fuel is low, like it's supposed to. I've done the '99 wiring harness fix as well and it's the same. My battery is new and I'm OK on the voltage with the R/R. Don't know what to say about it, turn signals and brakes for me, no high beam/fuel light issues.

I've got the NEP throttle lock on my '99 and it works pretty well, a little slippage when it's locked. The return spring slowly pulls it back but it give your right hand a nice long rest.

thanks to everyone whose added some thoughts or ideas on this thread. I went ahead and checked the valve clearances and found I have one exhaust valve out of spec. + or - 1 from .009 on the exhaust side and this one is .007. It's cylinder 1, right ex valve. The one right next to the cam chain. If I'm not mistaken this is tight at .007. Any thoughts on this making the noise I'm hearing? Would a tight valve even make any noise? I'm thinking no. Would a broken spring in the tight valve make that rattling, metalic sound? This is the only thing I've found wrong so far. - I've checked the cam chain top and bottom and the chain and guides look good, very tight with the CCT in - looked at both cam and crank pulsars, both are in good shape - all cam lobes look good, no discoloration or scoring thanks again everbody for your help.

so what's happening when you turn the screw the opposite way of resetting the CCT plunger? It moves a little and feels like it pushes down a little on the plunger. It's my imagination? I think he means that the plunger is meant to be adjusted automatically via the spring tension not adjusted manually My comment sounded a little smart ass and I didn't mean it to, am I just imagining that the screw pushes more of the plunger out?

nope, I tried that and the noise is the same with the clutch pulled in or out. :icon_doh: Thats not an adjustment screw!!! There is no adjusting the CCT. so what's happening when you turn the screw the opposite way of resetting the CCT plunger? It moves a little and feels like it pushes down a little on the plunger. It's my imagination?

that was my thinking on the on the cam chain jumping a tooth, pretty much impossible, although not entirely. I didn't have a chance to listen to the engine with a stick or screw driver cuz the fuel line feed hose got a hole in it from being propped up I guess. It is a '99 and a lot of the rubber bits are showing their age. Hopefully the local Honda dealers, (2) will have one in stock today. Of the 3 things you mention, only the oil had been changed and I didn change brands. Repsol before and I switched to a 5w-40 Castrol full sythn motorcycle oil. I rode over 1700 miles before this problem started.

Not head gasket... Exhaust gasket. that's what I get for trying to read posts before coffee. I've tried the stick/big screwdriver method before and that's a good reminder to get a better idea of where the sound is coming from.

I may try the tranny fluid, if that doesn't work, I may take the valve cover off and see what I can see. Would measuring the vavle clearances give me any clues? I've never checked the valved before. As far as the head gasket, there doesn't seem to be coolant in the oil and my coolant level isn't down. I just closed off the pair valves this spring so I don't think that's an issue. thanks for input everybody

UPDATE got the new cct from John, I install and the sound does not go away. It sounds exactly the same as the old cct, marbles sound that's heavy at 3k and above. I'm at a loss now as to what to do, it sure sounds like the cct but if a new cct 2 green dot didn't fix it..... I tightened the adjustment screw a little inside the cct to see if that would quiet it down but it just made it stall out. There is a "tick, tick tick" sound all the time at the front of the engine but the marbles sound comes right up at 3k. Any idea's anybody?

thanks for the good posts everyone, I've got a new cct coming from John. I played around with the old one, I was able to turn the adjustment screw enough to stop the clatter but the spring is just too weak to hold it for more than one rev of the engine. Hopefully the cct will arrive tomorrow, it's nice weather and gas is too expensive.

Ridin' back from Deal's Gap, I was about 25 minutes from Florence KY and I stopped for gas. I get back on, fire it up and I got the marbles in a tin can sound. I took the lifter off and re-install after winding it back up, but it did nothing. The plunger is firm, I pushed on it hard and it didn't move. It's the X-11 lifter that Vern (xrated) installed when he owned the bike. Is this sudden failure typical or should I have had a warning of some kind? The noise is on the right side, close to the clutch pack, in that area. Does it sound like the inner cam chain tensioner? I've read all the posts I could from previous questions and read something about the inner CCT. thanks for any help. Dan

problem fixed, it's was the R/R and I replaced it with an 01 Yamaha R1 r/r and all is well. The reason the stator didn't check out is because we had too many beers and the gauge was set for 200 ohms instead of 20. Oooops. BTW, I have 43k on the bike when the original R/R went out.

thanks for the help guys, the battery is brand new and fresh off the charger and I've done the leak down test too. I've elmininated that peice from the puzzle but the other 2, I wasn't sure about. I'll try today to find out what the alternator is pushing out when I start it up, hopefully it will be around 50 VAC.

I've read in all the posts I've searched that the R/R goes out quite often. Off the battery I'm only getting 12.6 or 7 volts at 5k with the high beam on. This would suggest R/R right? However, the readings I get off the alternator coil 3 plug yellow wires is 000 resistance, not 0.1-1.0. It always settles at 000. Is the alternator bad or is it the R/R? Can I test the 3 plug while the engine is running to see what the alternator is feeding the R/R? How do I do that, I haven't read that in the manual I downloaded. Thanks by the way to the person who did that. I'm fairly mechanical but not very good with electrics. Thanks in advance for the help.

I was talking with a a ZX-14 rider on another forum from Western PA and he says the Storm is becoming real popular with the 14 crowd. Good grip and long life, one guy even has a turbo 14 and loves the Storm. I'll have to try a set after the av45/46 combo wears out.

how did you align your rear wheel? What method I mean, the marks can be off the wire with a zip tie on it got my straight. I was perfect on the notches when I put my new tire on. But it vibrated pretty bad at speed. I bent a coat hanger straight, hammer tapped it on the cement to get it pretty good. Put a 90 degree bend in 2 inches from one end. Put the short bent piece in the the swingarm bolt hole. Adjusted zip to front edge of bolt. Checked the other side and if was off. Once I squared it up to the swingarm, all was smooth again. Good luck

read this from another post http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...l=PCII+problems

I have the 45/46 combo and like them alot, 9k on the back this summer and still no cord yet. The new ones came out yesterday I think. The beginning of Nov anyway. The new tires have "reactive footprint" , here's the link. Avon Storm ST

the needle does read true and I'm afraid the in-tank sensor is going, but I'll try the seafoam and see it cleans things up I did the 99/00 wireharness test plug fix already. I had the FI light going on but found out it was my PCII with the older firmware. Thanks for the idea's and tips guys. Once I find something out I'll be sure to post up any solution I find.

I've put over 9k on my 1999 XX this summer and in the last few weeks the low fuel light has been turning on later, with less fuel in the tank when I fill up. I didn't realize it was happening, the light always came on. I didn't know it was lighting up later and later. Then yesterday the light on the gas guage never came on and I ran out of gas. I run plenty of fuel through the system, so I didn't think gum or varnish could accumulate. Anybody else have this happen, noticing that the fuel light turns on later and later? My gas mileage hasn't changed. I'm going to add a half can of seafoam and see if that cleans things up with the fuel level sensor. Is this an indication that my low fuel sensor in the tank is going bad? I did a search and found nothing on this particular subject. Thanks for reading.

mine is a 1999 and I think the 1999-2000 are the years where the test block can cause you some problems. You can read more about it under the important/useful thread.

Nice work porterb123, I recently dismantled mine and found only 1 connector slightly green. I cleaned it, added some dielectric grease and shoved the whole block up by the battery case and zipped it to the cross piece between the subframe rails right by the battery. I had a corner of the block showing so I think I was headed for more trouble down the road. I'm glad I did some prevenative maintainence.

when the FI light comes on, come to a complete stop with the bike running and FI light on - put bike in neutral and then put down kickstand with bike still running - FI light will flash the code of the sensor or injector that is reporting a problem to the computer - FI light will be long or sustained flash, then shorter, quicker flashes. Count longer flashes then shorter ones. The bike will repeat them over and over till you turn off the bike. For example, if you get code 25, it's 2 long flashes followed by 5 short, fast ones. - do a search for "EFI codes" on this site, under search on the top right of the page if your XX is a 1999 or 2000, search the site for "wiring loom" and try that if the codes don't reveal what the problem is.

The knock sensor was hooked up. I took the PCII out of the loop and no more knock sensor code. I hammered on it during my test ride, which previously would trip the code and red FI light almost right away. I'm not sure if riding in the rain got the PCII wet and caused the problem or if it needs the firmware update. I'll try the software download and see what happens when I put the PCII back on-line. Thanks for the help.

I've read your posts and found them helpful but not totally for my situation. But it is good to know a little more about the knock sensor and it's function. I'm going to look into the PCII next and make sure all the latest software is downloaded to it. Mikesail, you used a rubber O-ring as a washer?