daveszx302

I already changed the CCT with the updated oe one, no change in vibes. XX4me and Hobicus think it's the balance shaft. I never thought about throttle body sync though, it dynoed at 132 whp in Sturgis so I guess its about normal :???: I just don't want to spend big bucks at the dealer when the tech's there don't know anything about adjusting ballance shafts! So I am still numb and at a loss as how to fix it. :sad: -Dave

I have the same problem with my '01. I have never been able to figure it out, I have ridden other peoples 'Birds and they felt smooth as silk. When they ride mine they notice it right away, in the same rpm range as yous. Someone else on the board suggested mabye the balance shaft timing is out of wack and is adjustible, I just havent tried checking it yet. Yours is still under warranty so try to find a dealer who you trust and have them check it and let us know how it goes! -Dave

Thanks, I'll call them Monday to see what they have. I would like the stainless steel ones though, budget can't afford carbon :sad: Any other places sell discontinued exhausts? Dave

Northman, that's what I thought, and they sounded awsome! I heard you ride in when u got there (MegaXX)! Problem is they (V&H) don't list them on their website and my local dealer can't help either. :roll: Canada0937: Thats why I was asking u if you still had the PN# for them so I could contact them directly. Anybody know where I can get them??? Thanks all! -Dave

It was me, I asked him but cant find a PN# from V&H for them! Anybody know as I want a set of slipons that are NOT raspy like 2 bros so I will go with either V&H or Yosh Zyclone. I would like it a little louder and deeper than stock but not straight through. Guess I'm getting old and totally dislike the sound that all the kids with their 600's make :sad: Any opinions? Thanks, Dave

I'm happy with this discussion, becoming very informitive. I just hope nobody thinks I'm flaming them. :oops: We all learn from each others misfortunes and expertise, that is what makes this board awsome :grin:

Looks like EliXXr posted at the same time same time, he makes a very valid point. Well spoken.

Forrest, ok, I will go with your reasoning as u state the bike is running much better now. But to be absolutely shure I think u should still drop it off here for the rest of the summer I agree with Northman to a point only because Honda elected to put the sensor as close as possible to the intake runner, not the air inlet. Puting it by the filter would give a false reading to the ecu. Reasons: 1 Ambient air temp is not intake air temp at the motor. 2 The turbo gets the air hot, changing the density. 3 Your Aquamist system works great, it also changes density and air temp when working. 4 Your intercooler is very efficient, it lowers your temps down bigtime, much closer to ambient, which may cancell out point 1. Go figure. Either way though, if your hard runs bring your temps up to 120 for a short period and the ambient temp was say 70 thats a 50 degree difference which is still a big number! Like if on a 70 deg day your ecu thinks its only 30 and goes into cold mode. Get my drift? Anyway, your bike is still running much better now and we are all awed by your build-up, so when are the demo rides????? -Dave

I read what u say and understand your rationall for it BUT I really don't think heat soak is a problem you would ever have since your intercooler is water cooled, I have seen and heard about heat soaked intercoolers in air/air applications but never air/water as water dissipates heat a lot faster than air and your water temp guage is always around 100 deg even after a hard run for your intercooler. Just a thought though, where is your sender at for the intercooler, by your discharge hose off the inter/after cooler or is it by the radiator for it? No, I was not trying to tell you to run a mass air sensor, just trying to state that both systems use a air temp sensor in their configurations. I wish there was a way u could mount an air temp gauge in your air box to test this though. It just seems that u changing your fuel settings every day u ride is useless if the ecu will do it for u with the proper reading for an input but then again I base all of this on automotive ecu's and the problems I have run into installing aftermarket turbos on them, and I have done many of them! I will admit I have no idea about Honda motorcycle ecu's and how much the programing differ's from the Civic's and Integra's I have built. I will also say that I am totally against disconnecting your knock sensor for any reason. I have changed the sensivity of some by removing them and installing a fiber or rubber washer on the base of it but would always leave it in the system. If you ever have a injector clog or plug go out and you were on boost u will wish it was there to cut back timing as pistons can melt VERY fast! Hope this helps. -Dave

Ok, time to jump in. Even MAS equiped vehicles have a air temp sensor. Older injection systems that use MAP and or vane/flapper style sensors to measure air flow still need to know air density to figure out proper injector and timing rate. When he moved his sensor to the rear of the bike and got different a/f ratios only proves that this is a full time sensor, not just a cold start sensor. As we discussed earlyier, now find a way to let the processor know actual air temp entering the engine! Fuer rail is toooo hot, tail section is to cool, air box below/after intercooler is actual air temp into the engine which is why Honda put it there in the first place! I really don't beleive the sensor being under "boost" will affect anything. To test this just turn on the ignition and take your sensor and set it on a ice cube. With a digital multimeter read voltage/resistance off of it then take a hair drier and blow it across it from a distance and bring it closer while watching your reading, if the reading goes steadily up then put the sensor in the air box and refigure your timing and air fuel tables and be happy! One other thing, your (our) map sensor, does it have the ability to measure boost? Anybody? Can the ecu use this info? On cars that I have put turbos on I have sometimes had to put in Mopar 2 bar map sensors to get the vehicle to run proper! Dude, when I was finding u some air temp sensor topics my computer crashed and Rich (Hobicus) just fixed it earlyier today. Let us know if this helps. l8tr -Dave

Thanks for the much better explaination guys :grin: -Dave

Yes, I've seen that equation many times, it's true for eveyr dyno ive had for my car, as typical car dyno graphs cross over at 5250 rpm (hp & tq) unless they are v-tec or exotic intakes. I think it has something to do with intake runner length vs cam timing. Typical car has intake runner length of 10+ inches vs typical bike has 2-4 inches which boosts top end hp vs bottom end torque. Mabye someone else can better explain. -Dave

So aK&N filetr is worth 3 hp & 2 ft/lb? What year is his? I didn't buy one cause everyone said it wasnt worth anything, guess I will go order one now. :sad: Plus it looks like it leans it out a lot better for performance. -Dave

Hey, I have to agree with tomtec on this one, like our conversation, if your drop in hp was accompanied with a drop ( or raise) in a/f ratio then I would beleive in timing or fueling problem, but since not then boost problem. Fix the wastegate, port it, clip it or remote mount it. I will link a better discharge housing from a talon a little later. -Dave

Wow, that air/fuel is a lot leaner on his, different year or mods? Mine was tested bone stock, '01, at 4000 ft elevation. My sheet is the bottom one for your info. The folks who tested it told me that it would post higher hp & torque if tested at lower altitude but with talking to you I wonder about that? Bike was tested in Sturgis, S.D.,,,not West Bend, WI. Anyway, good luck with your tuning and keep us posted! Dave