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jon haney

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Posts posted by jon haney

    New Tires

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Here we go again.

    If you got the Qualifiers, the handling is great with decent wet-weather traction, but you'll be replacing the rear sooner than you think especially if you do any long distance riding. The new Roadsmart wears much better with almost as good traction.

    Front Brake Caliper - Rebuild Piston Seals

    in The Garage

    Posted

    This isn't that complicated guys.

    Do it just like you did the first time, except hold your hand over the hole for the other outer cylinder so that air pressure can build behind the piston giving you the trouble.

    If that doesn't work, try what MrBadXXample said.

    It is always best to remove the calipers and pump the pistons out as far as they will go (with pads still in place) before removing any banjo bolts. Then you have more piston to get a hold of.

    Hobie, I know what you're thinking. :icon_nono:

    Did I buy the wrong part?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I would question if that ECU is even for the Blackbird at all. Bike Bandit does show two different part numbers, but doesn't indicate why or what the difference is. If the one you bought is not for a Blackbird, make him take it back. If he gives you any trouble, tell him you will report him to Ebay for fraud.

    Brakes???

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Thanks guys after a clear head and washing my new baby I came to my crazy conclusion!!

    It appears that I mounted the front tire on backwards by just looking at the bike after washing her I noticed the rim Mags(spokes) where facing a different direction from front to back and since you can't screw up the back the front has to be re-mounted and then new brakes. Boy what a PITA to save some $$ but I chaulk it up as a lesson

    Greg

    :icon_doh: :icon_doh:

    Welcome to "Retards Anonymous" where there is always someone to help you stay on the wagon.....I mean motorcycle. :icon_biggrin:

    Brakes???

    in The Garage

    Posted

    OK, You are crazy. :icon_duh: The axle can only go in one way and the longer spacer goes on the side that is closest to the axle-nut, which should be the right side of the bike as determined from the saddle.

    My advice would be to find another blackbird owner near you, who has worked on their own brakes, and have them address your front brake situation.

    WHEEL ALIGNMENT ISSUE

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I use the threaded rod in the rear axle and also in the frame. Measure close to the bike and out at teh end. Make small adjustments till they are equal.

    Only takes a few minutes to do..

    Can't say I've ever heard of this method, but it sounds like it will work real well if you can find two perfectly straight pieces of rod. Good luck.

    One question: What do you do if you have a solid rear axle? :icon_eh: This is a BB forum you know.

    Any Ideas?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I'd leave the swing-arm alone and get a different stand. I have trailered my Bird with a "Handy" rear-wheel stand underneath, and it didn't move at all. It seems to fit the Bird very well.

    Yes, those are the cheap ones. Just for the record, I don't like their front wheel stand.

    WHEEL ALIGNMENT ISSUE

    in The Garage

    Posted

    I've always used the marks on the factory chain adjusters and its always looked dead-on. I remove the chain guard so I can look right down the chain towards the front sprocket to confirm. I was off about a quarter of a mark one time (vision going bad with age), and I could easily see it was off.

    Another way to tell is if your rear sprocket teeth are polished(or scratched) on one side and not the other, your alignment is off. You should be able to figure out which way.

    Any Roadsmart feedback yet?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Roadsmart follow-up:

    Rode into work this morning with all the luggage removed and could only make it wobble a little bit. I think a new front tire would cure this problem entirely.

    I had the same problem with running a Qualifier up front and it cupped after about 1000 miles to the point of being useless.

    After 3500 miles, mine is cupped a little, but I wouldn't call it useless. I run 38-40 psi in it which seems to lessen the cupping.

    Any Roadsmart feedback yet?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Sorry I'm late. I got in about midnight from Colorado last night and I'm barely awake.

    I put a new Roadsmart rear on just before this trip with a front Qualifier that had about 2500 miles. Handling seemed pretty good except for one thing. If you let go of the bars at about 50 MPH (decelerating), she started to wobble slowly and if you don't grab the bars within a couple of seconds, you'll be in a full tank-slapper. It wouldn't happen at any other speed or even riding one-handed. I'm guessing a lot of factors are involved here. I had on my Givi hard bags and Tourmaster tail trunk all loaded good. I'll find out tommorow if taking them off helps. I'm sure a new front tire would cure the problem.

    As for wear: After 1100 miles, the missing tire titties is the only way you can tell that the tire has been used. :icon_dance:

    Grip was also excellent. I tried to spin it once on some slightly wet pavement by popping the clutch and just bogged the motor. I was probably at 8000 feet when I tried this. (i.e. no power) :icon_rolleyes:

    I'll make another report when I can actually detect some wear. Could be awhile. I may do a track day with it just to see how much grip it has.

    Later.

    Bike died on choke this morning

    in The Garage

    Posted

    would I be able to visually see a leak in the solenoid? I did ride in to work this morning. It seems that it when it first starts in the morning it is running on two cylinders and if I just let it sit on choke it will die. I kept giving it twists of throttle till it eventually seemed to "catch it's breath" and rev smoothly and run like it should. From then on I let it idle for about 5 minutes, then it ran great the entire trip to the office.

    Maybe. The extra fuel may only be pulled through the solenoid under vacuum, which is highest when the throttles are closed. Also, make sure the fuel pump for the nitrous system is not running during normal operation. Better yet, disconnect the fuel source entirely from the nitrous system. If the bike runs better after that, you'll know that was the problem.Since someone else installed the system, it's hard to know what they did.

    P.S. You still should consider installing new spark plugs.

    What has failed on your XX?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    That's what I thought I was doing. I have to press down on the lever while lifting the bike, but I suppose it's just not meant to take that kind of stress.

    If you tried to put the bike on the center-stand with it "in gear", you will bend or break the leverage arm. Don't ask me how I know this. :icon_whistle:

    Chain Question

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Thanks for the reply. I'll mark that pin and watch it.

    You could just replace that link too. With new o rings.

    I love my RK chain tool. I can do anything with it.

    :icon_doh: :icon_doh: :icon_doh: :icon_doh: :icon_doh: :icon_doh:

    That's not a bad idea either. I'm still thinking in the old days of clip-style master-links where one is more than enough to worry about.

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