jon haney
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Posts posted by jon haney
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18 hours ago, fizzy said:
But coming up with mathematical equation for the movement of the rod vs. cam angle is the main thing here. yes
then:
Differentiate the formula of position to get the formula for velocity.
" " " " velocity to get the formula for acceleration
set this formula against the potential acceleration generated by the spring.
In all my years working, I never ever had to do any calculus. Very little math really, compared to the stupid amount I had to learn.
Related to the actual Question: (What is the max rpm of the disc before the cam follower leaves the surface of the disc?)
I believe we would need to know spring rate, starting seat pressure, effective mass of the follower/spring combo, and any friction of movement of the follower. As Tomek would say, Fun stuff.
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20 hours ago, tomek said:
Would be more fun with progressive rate spring.🤪
You and I have different definitions of "fun".🤪
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On 12/19/2022 at 5:47 PM, XXitanium said:
I assume you are referencing the photo Tom posted, but I can't open it on my work computer, and I can't use my cell phone in our building due to very weak signal.
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Given the same stem diameter, stem length, and head diameter, how can the TI valve still weigh almost as much as a stainless valve? Is the head of the TI valve that much thicker?
Personally, I would only use TI valves on intake, but I'm not a pro-stock engine builder.
Wait. Is the stainless valve stem hollow, and filled with sodium?
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On 12/2/2022 at 2:56 PM, blackhawkxx said:
That is a interesting backrest for those who ride two up.
Let the wheelies begin!
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16 hours ago, tomek said:
Title of this thread.
LOL. The one place I forgot to look.
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6 hours ago, tomek said:
Waste of time. Idle speed control on fuel injected XX is purely mechanical. I mean there is obviously cold coolant temp mixture correction map but that would not cause 4000 rpm idle speed.
Don't see where he said 4000 RPM. That would be too high even for a malfunctioning fast idle circuit.
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For FI Birds, there is a mechanism on the throttle bodies that defaults (cold condition) to a fast-idle, and then when the coolant gets warm, it goes to a normal idle. That mechanism may be "sticking", the wax inside the actuator may be leaking/going bad, or the flow of coolant through the tiny hoses may be impeded or blocked. Once all that stuff gets some heat from the engine and exhaust pipes, it's magically fixed. Coolant flow blockage is the most likely.
This is something very rare, but figured I would through it out there. I'm always late to the party, so the common/simple stuff has already been mentioned.
Good luck.
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On 11/25/2022 at 8:16 AM, superhawk996 said:
Cavemen taught us the fundamentals of wheels. This generation expects tires.
Like Dion Sanders, I prefer both.
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On 11/26/2022 at 7:42 PM, superhawk996 said:
So far it seems that as long as I leave the cover on the bike they seem to stay in spec.
As in not riding it, just in case anyone thought he meant "valve cover".
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4 hours ago, silverbird1100 said:
If that doesn't get you first place at a bike show, I don't know what would.
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3 hours ago, silverbird1100 said:
I really hope this is a photoshop. If not, that is likely the ugliest BB in existence.
If the movie Deliverance was made into a motorcycle.
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20 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
Most diagnostics are pretty simple and just require a cheap scanner. But there are times where it becomes nearly impossible without the equipment and knowledge. Canbus is a prime enemy, that shit can go fuck itself.
Canbus fuckery example on a customer's diesel Jetta: ABS light came on so she called me right away. No biggie, probably just a wheel speed sensor, swing by after work and I'll scan it. Minutes later the fuel gauge went to 0, then the tack to 0, speedo to 0, trans stopped shifting, then slow limp mode. Stop and restart the car and everything's fine, then the cascade starts again whenever it feels like it. After some checks I tapped out and told them to take it to the dealer. They said the ABS module and transmission needed to be replaced, around $11K. I told them I had a hunch, no guarantees, $1300. I had the ABS module repaired and that cured everything. A bad solder joint in the ABS module caused the whole system to shit out. Fuck that shit. What's weirdest to me is that everything didn't die at once and sometimes only a few things would shit out for a pretty long time. I'd expect an instant system failure, but it was always a cascading effect. Maybe the system was compensating for the high resistance for as long as it could, dunno.
That was so nice of the dealer to suggest replacing the whole transmission, ya know, just in case.
FUCKING THIEVES!
Most people have no clue how much they are getting screwed when they know absolutely nothing about their own vehicles.
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On 11/14/2022 at 1:56 PM, SwampNut said:
How quickly we forget the adventure of having points/condensor fail randomly in the middle of the night or water getting into the cracked piece of shit distributor cap... Then you get your old five-cell Maglight and try to balance it on the fender while trying to avoid it shorting out the battery. You're five minutes into finding your sandpaper and some cleaner when the light goes dim....dimmer...oh no. Now you use your remaining battery life to find more batteries in the trunk, where you find them rusty from the leak in those shitty 70s seals. You use the sandpaper to clean them just in time to get your light back. Clean the points, and nothing. Oh, is the condenser shorted, is the cap bridging? Did the coil just randomly fry?
Good times.
How old do you think I am?
👴
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7 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:
But the maintenance issues must be overwhelming for them.
Just guessing, but I think their "vehicles" are much less maintenance when competing for a, uh, "drive".
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UPDATE:
New terminals and ground cable didn't fix the problem, but helped. Brand new battery with 890 CCA, instead of the cheap 540 CCA battery that was in it, did the trick. Fired right up in 20 degree weather. Interesting how something can work (crank the engine), but not work (no start). Fancy electronics are great, until they're not.
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1 hour ago, XXitanium said:
Seen it. Even rode it around the parking lot. Takes some getting used to.
I think I would rather build something with 2 Bird motors, and be able to ride/drive it in the rain without getting wet.
Thanks for posting the video link. I had never seen that.
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18 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
It's called Ackerman, and can be one of the toughest things to get right. Even many production vehicles don't get it right, I mostly notice it with trucks/vans. That would only be one of the challenges of getting two bikes working as a car, and one of the least likely to try to kill you if you get it wrong.
I retract my cost comparison statement above. Forgot about the front geometry equation.
I've seen a side-car rig that had a front "swing-arm" setup with center-hub steering. Probably have to go that way to make it work.
Come on lottery! Daddy needs a new Bird, I mean Birds.
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On 10/26/2022 at 2:23 PM, superhawk996 said:
Whada you know shit talker, u proly ain ever even seen a dragstrip.
LOL. Fortunately, not too close-up anyway.
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17 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:
For the sake of the test, you shouldn't replace the battery unless it won't start again ( at least for a while). I also have a hard time believing that lead terminals in like new condition wouldn't work as well.
They aren't in "like new" condition, but not corroded either. Just a dark outer layer of oxidation. No idea how old they are. I probably put them on years ago for my father-in-law, and just don't remember. Wire brushing the inside of the clamps, and the battery posts seem to do the trick, for now. The negative cable was cut and clamped into the lead terminal, so there is another place where a "marginal contact" can happen. Hence, new OEM clamps and battery. If I have any more trouble with it, I'll replace to the ECM relay.
My son has no desire to learn much in the way of auto mechanics or electrical, so want to make sure he doesn't get stranded.
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16 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
On the upside, you can make big power with a VW motor and they're light.
Every vehicle can be made fast with enough money.
Two real Birds lovingly connected with some chrome moly tubing and fiberglass has got to cost less than a souped-up VW motor that would push that rig to the same 1/4 mile time.
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Truck started just fine this morning, 36 degrees, so I'm thinking Furbird may be on to something with terminal material, and need for max voltage thing. New negative cable and positive clamp on the way (genuine Nissan). Gonna replace the battery too, just to be sure.
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Thanks, Carlos. However, after reading "Beetle running gear", I feel like a beautiful women has just undressed in front of me, only to reveal a penis.
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15 hours ago, XXitanium said:
...any updates?
Tomorrow morning is the first (sort of) cold weather test. The forecast low is 41 degrees. All I did was clean the terminals, and make sure all the bolts were tight on the battery cables. Wife works from home on Wed. and Thurs. so she can take him to school, if it don't start. If it fails, I'll get a new battery, and try again Thursday morning.
I did order new Nissan battery clamps, and ground cable, so that will get done, anyway. Hopefully, this weekend, if they shipped them yesterday.
Titanium vs. Stainless Steel
in The Garage
Posted
That's okay. My college era math skills are mostly gone, too. Was just pointing out other factors that would affect a real world result. I always laughed at all the text book problems that would state: "assuming an ideal gas" or "assuming constant temperature".