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Posts posted by jon haney
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Well, I sure need to "NAD" on a regular basis to feel healthy.
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14 hours ago, Furbird said:
I had a KZ1000 with a Sidewinder and Furbird with the D&D and multiple people came up to me and said Furbird was louder than my KZ.
This I would have to hear for myself, as I have never heard a Bird with a sidewinder, or D&D 4-1. I just had a Yosh header with no muffler. That was plenty loud. Those damn KZ megaphones will wake the dead in China. Put one on a ZX-14 motor, and it seems to get worse, but that might just be the 14:1 pistons.
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1 hour ago, Furbird said:
Vance and Hines Sidewinder, #1 loudest (think high school cheerleader screaming at Taylor Swift through a megaphone on crack.)
D&D (whatever that racing exhaust is I have that has zero baffles), #2 loudest (see above, minus the crack.)
Everybody else is a DISTANT third and not even in the same zip code.Where would you put "stock header, no cans"? I'd hate to think that there is anything louder than that, or an open megaphone side-winder.
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3 hours ago, SwampNut said:
All Loctite is rated up to 300F, and there's a special one for 650. The "DB killer" insert in the KTM's aftermarket muffler likes to shake its retaining bolt loose. Life with a thumper I guess. Any opinions on which product to use?
The 650 degree stuff should be adequate, if there is no other "mechanical" means of securing the bolt.
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$65 on Rockauto.com
Don't know about shipping. Can't do everything for you.
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On 5/10/2023 at 2:40 PM, SwampNut said:
customer gave me a small folding table that will be great for setting up parts/hand tools anywhere in the shop,
Six months from now it will just be in your way.
LOL
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If I had a 25 year old pick-up, I think I would just remove whatever is left of the insulation pad, and not worry about. But that's me.
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3 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
While I was very good at fire starting in the Boy Scouts, I've since learned that they failed to teach us about the effectiveness of gasoline.
For good reason.
Collect dryer lint. It makes great fire starter material, packs down small, and is light weight.
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On 5/7/2023 at 12:15 PM, SwampNut said:
Also, great to see that you keep the fuel next to the black powder. You wouldn't want a SMALL explosion.
Fastest way to spread vegetation killer.👍
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1 hour ago, Zero Knievel said:
Nissans have had consistently bad reviews of late. Don’t know of anyone who has been happy with theirs lately. Maybe their trucks fare better. Last time I looked at one, it was nice, but didn’t fit right.
Bad reviews for what? Being ugly? You didn't say it had to be an eye catcher. Don't confuse the trucks with anything related to a Nissan with a CVT trans. And the 4.0 V6 is mostly pre-Covid, I believe.
All I have ever heard of ON THE FRONTIER is some electrical gremlins related to the radio and HVAC system. Nothing worth a recall. You know Furbird is THE source for all Nissan knowledge here, right?
What you think FUR? Based on what Mike said he was looking for, the Frontier seems to "fit the bill", no?
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Mike, did you even consider a Nissan Frontier? The new ones look great, but if reliability is your goal, get a gently used one with the 4.0 V-6. You would be hard-pressed to find another engine (and probably transmission) with a better record of reliability. Good power, reasonable gas mileage, no turbos. They have been around so long, there is plenty of used and after-market parts available. I have a 2017, and my son has a 2007 we bought from my MIL. Mechanically, they are almost identical, save for mine having the extra 4x4 power train stuff. The 2007 has 155K. Just put new coils on it. The A/C seems to have lost its freon all of a sudden, but haven't diagnosed that yet. Was working great just before winter. Only big issue was a catalytic convertor that's innards crumbled. Mechanic shop wanted $2900 for one side. With parts from Rock Auto, I did both sides, and all 4 O2 sensors for $700. I reused the secondary cats, after a good cleaning. With proper maintenance, and your driving style, 200K should be a cake-walk.
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6 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:
Does the insert terminate before the end of the hole? If so, try anything long enough with a lip (think nail head). Catch the edge and see if you can gently work it back out enough...hopefully enough to grip something on your end to more effectively pry.
If the hole is 1/8 or 3/16", a paper-clip is about all you can get in there. There might be a very special tool for this, but it will still cost way more than several drill bits. I would use cobalt bits, high-speed, and very slow feed. And lube. Everything is better with lube.
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Might have to try that, but I suspect it's very similar to Tri-Flow lubricant.
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19 hours ago, SwampNut said:
Well, turns out Rottweiler doesn't have a map, it was misleading on their site. They only have the other KTMs, not mine. So back to searching for an option, maybe the PC-5, from another vendor.
Worth the research, in my opinion.
BTW, I don't know if your tire is cupped, but your swing-arm appears to be inside out.🤔
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1 hour ago, SwampNut said:
The decat pipe is on order, now to figure out a programmer. I'm going to start a conversation with Rottweiler Performance about their PC 5 options, $400, and it's a known brand from a known KTM specialist. They have good dyno-backed claims on their map, which is free if you buy the PC from them. Any opinions on just going that old/proven route?
I would go with the PC-5 for all the reasons you mentioned. You tell them what you have changed, and they load a base map that best matches. Plug and play is worth the extra money, and I know you value that.
IMO, the programmer will give you the most bump in power where you want it. Exhaust mods are usually most beneficial at high RPM only. Sound and weight loss are really the only reasons for after market exhaust. The performance of stock systems is pretty good these days. The fueling is where they neuter the engine.
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That's nuttin special. Just a parallel twin with a fat cam chain drive on the end. Perhaps gear drive.🤪
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On 2/18/2023 at 10:33 PM, superhawk996 said:
The atmospheric pressure was up that day. Or maybe the humidity was down? There might have been a tail wind.
Ok, truth is, I dropped a huge poop that morning and forgot to recalibrate the dyno. You got me.
Forgetting to re-calibrate leaves skid marks, no?
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Guessing the language in the Harley manual is mostly for legal reasons, and just convenient that it also functions as a marketing tool. Tool is also a convenient word in this context.
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59 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:
I've never had issues with gas in the tank going bad. The Porsche I recently resurrected sat about 10 years and the gas was still good enough to not have issues. I drained it because it's a fucking Porsche so it got new premium, but the old gas went into the forklift and F-150.
The climate there definitely helps with regard to tank issues, but for pennies per treatment, and what can happen if you forget to drain............just ride the damn thing more often. I sold my Birds, because I knew I wouldn't ride them often enough. Both, now have good homes. If you love something, love it (stabilizer), or let it go.
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5 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
I forgot to say, the bowls were a lot cleaner than I expected. A tiny bit of brown sediment which is common with any carb even when they're working fine. No green shit, and no goo, just totally clogged jets. Spray cleaner wouldn't bust through, had to use a wire to poke them out.
Draining is a good idea, but that doesn't help the old shit in the tank. Fuel preservative, or at least ethanol treatment.
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13 hours ago, XXitanium said:
Thanks, I did get the screw ID from the article above.
https://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/300
That's a good link. On most of my #0 and #1 Phillips sizes, I have ground just a little metal off the tips, and they seem to fit the JIS much better, if not perfect. Here I thought the screw driver and bit manufacturers were just doing it wrong. Now I know.
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GREAT WORK
in The Garage
Posted
Probably pay a visit to the PD psychiatrist.
🤪