jon haney
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Posts posted by jon haney
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Could it be the ECU?
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AFAM has this, https://www.afam.com/en/service-2/sprocket-finder/ but I couldn't find anything close to the numbers you gave.
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I might re-use a rear steel sprocket, but always put on a new front sprocket with a new chain.
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5 hours ago, JoWhee said:
HOLD UP! aren't you a drag racer? A knee down would be a bad thing in that situation IMO.
Yes, I am, and yes, it would. I have also completed the Star Racing School (twice), and done a couple dozen track days just for fun, no competition. It definitely helps make you a better road rider. That is why I recommended it to Mike. Having more skill/confidence also makes having to keep within the traffic laws, and sharing the road with cages more painful.
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7 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:
I’m not interested in speed. I’m happy just staying smooth in a turn. Frankly, I’ve noticed some deterioration in my reflexes, so I’m even more conservative in my riding. I want to have a good ride and get home in one piece...not get a knee down.That's fine, but don't expect everyone else to wait for you. Make sure you know the whole route, and planned stops before hand, otherwise you might find yourself riding alone the whole day. For the record, I've never "got a knee down", even on the many track days I've done. Not flexible enough for that, apparently.
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It's an old bike. Probably just a minor oil leak from the cap on the upper balance shaft access, or from one of those bolts with the copper washers. Totally normal for this bike. If you start seeing puddles of oil, then you need to look into fixing it.
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On 5/23/2021 at 8:57 AM, Zero Knievel said:
I’d like to think that, but based on the critiques I got on the last group ride, I’d question that. To be fair, they claimed they’d go 10-15 over the limit, but I was pushing 20-25 over just to keep up.
That was 10-15 over on the straights. We just don't slow down as much as you on the curves. You have done too many miles on two wheels, to be as slow as you were in Arkansas. I think a track-day class would do your confidence a world of good. Just don't argue with the instructor when he tells you you're doing it wrong.
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On 5/23/2021 at 7:36 AM, JoWhee said:
I've heard the Angel GT's get great mileage, and are decent in the twisties. However, is it possible you're riding the BMW a little more aggressively that you did the bird? It would explain the increased tire wear.
If you count jumping curbs as more aggressive, then, yes. I also think he should get the Angel GT's.
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For your riding style, that is pretty bad mileage for a front tire. Maybe the BMW shop didn't quite get your baby back to newish condition? Might want verify that everything is straight/aligned.
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2 minutes ago, superhawk996 said:
I don't think so, but don't know. AFAIK that style trans is aimed only at the drag racing world. I think it's the same or similar as used in pro-stock cars, but this car has a traditional shifter instead of individual levers.
Yep. Individual levers was usually a Lenco. Loved to watch Bob Glidden grab those levers with the precision of a robot.
I saw an episode of Finnegan's Garage that showed a true, 6-speed w/reverse, sequential transmission for (mostly) roadrace cars. He and the builders were talking about it like an info-mercial. They didn't mention how much it costs, but guessing it was north of 8 grand.
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16 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
I got to drive a buddy's car that had a 'liberty shift' manual trans, no clutching or lifting the throttle, just slam the next gear at WOT when the shift light came on. It felt wrong to do, but worked great.
Also, cool. Does it work the same way down-shifting?
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On 5/7/2021 at 1:04 PM, sandman said:
As mentioned earlier by fizzy, how do you bypass the ecu and power the fuel pump directly? Did a search, didn't find it on forum.
I have never had to do this, so it's best someone else chimes in. Also, I no longer have a Bird or manual to look at.
As improbable as it sounds, I have heard of copper wires "breaking" inside the insulation with no apparent external damage. Make sure the wire(s) from the relay to the pump plug have continuity, and make sure there are no holes rubbed in the insulation.
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22 hours ago, fizzy said:
Ok, but maybe the other way around would be safer? I don't let my precious ECU out at night to play with other bikes. don't know what kind of shape it may come back in. 😀
LOL. I understand. I figured that was something a person would do, uh, "in person", and then take it back home after the test. Definitely, wouldn't do an "over-nighter".
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21 hours ago, sandman said:
@fizzy- sorry for not explaining more clearly. The connector to the fuel pump (green/brown wires) is not getting any voltage. I do hear the fuel pump relay click on when the ignition switch is turned on. Fuel pump works, it's just not getting power. I'm looking for advice as to why, after all the components I've checked.
Check for power coming out of the relay itself. If that's good, maybe one of our Chicago area peeps would be willing to loan you their functional ECU to check if that is the problem?
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1 hour ago, sandman said:
Looking for opinions and experience concerning the wiring loom fix problem coming back later, causing a no prime/no start issue.
Fuel pump powered/jumped- it works. Have multi meter tested: kill switch, 3 relays, side stand switch, all fuses. New battery.
No power at fuel pump loom connector.
Has anyone had the wiring loom fix problem happen again a few years after repair?
Did you check the "tip-over" switch?
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5 hours ago, 98blakbird said:
What is the part number then 🤔 I have all seals for slave and master just nee last one for push rod
I think it's #22 on Bike Bandit's parts fiche. 91204-MG8-003
https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2000-honda-super-blackbird-cbr1100xx/o/m151353#sch91739
I'm not sure you can replace that seal without separating the engine cases. Someone here will likely know.
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Joes's trick with the starting fluid will let you know if it is a fuel delivery issue, but I would still check the ignition wiring to make sure no rodents have chewed through them. You could also just crank the engine for a few seconds, and then smell the exhaust pipes. If you can't smell any petrol, it's likely the injectors. Also, I would replace the fuel pressure regulator. They are known for problems.
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You might be able to slide the shaft out just far enough to replace the o-ring. Not sure, as it's been a long time since I messed with that, and I had the cases split. Just make sure you mark the position/rotation of the shaft before you loosen the clamp arm.
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On 3/23/2021 at 2:22 PM, tecman said:
Thanks for the offer but I found one at the Berkeley bike shop. Less than $20. About to replace it now.
I appreciate the help, it is actually a pretty easy procedure, even for a novice mechanic like me.
I had one, and would have sent it to you for free, but your way is faster. Glad it was easy fix for you.
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21 hours ago, tecman said:
It is a bad light switch. Let me know what ya' got. They seem to be fairly universal.
Thanks.
I'll look when I get home tonight.
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I probably have the correct switch (used), but don't have a Bird anymore to verify the correct shape and mounting. If that is what you end up needing, I'll check a parts fiche online, and let you know.
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Wow. That is very cool. Upgrade the suspension and brakes on that little 400, and you have a super fun track day weapon. There is famous museum in Birmingham, Alabama that I'm pretty sure doesn't have one of those. Bet they would love to get their hands on it.
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14 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
I prefer using grease. They slide right on, they're easy to position just right, and easy to remove. Also cuts down on wheelie tickets.
You forgot about the huge increase in MPG.😉
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Yep. I been doing that for years. Works great. Can't remember who showed it to me.
Mint 2001 Blackbird/No Start
in The Garage
Posted
Mine is a Street Triple. The Speed was a little heavy for what I was wanting. At 400 lbs. full of gas, the Streety has plenty of power and is a hoot to ride. Even makes a capable tourer for one, with a Corbin seat and a Givi trunk. Old pic. It now has bar-end mirrors, and Ohlins shock.