tomek
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Posts posted by tomek
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1 hour ago, Zero Knievel said:
What is pictured isn’t what BMW suggested. The mounts for the rear foot pegs are the official rear tie down anchors for the bike. Because of how the trailer has the anchors too close, I was cutting through straps from the needless friction. What is pictured was my best effort to secure the rear without having the strap rub against itself or hard points that would cut through them.So, no, Tomek isn’t right. And [sarcasm] I’d like to thank him for shitting on a perfectly good thread rather than making his point in another thread or by PM. It appears he’s back from vacation.
It was your best effort. Lol. No further comments.
Once again, this has been discussed before. You have not listen to good advices that were given to you, instead you went full retard.
What is the point really,,,,,
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51 minutes ago, Zero Knievel said:
The BMW crowd also put me on to THIS, which will work nicely. 🤘
Nope. Idiots who don't understand basic physics at work. Much effort to make this device but epic fail.
It won't prevent back of the bike from
- moving sideways
- falling on the side if something goes wrong with front straps.
I'm always amazed by by idiotic overthinking/overengineering that fails in biblical way when simple solution is easily available.
Simple solution is to run strap looped around top of the rear wheel.
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4 minutes ago, Zero Knievel said:
Explain, please. I did the original strapping PER BMW's INSTRUCTIONS. Those straps were compromised because they rubbed against the bike too much. The setup I went with was intended to minimize friction, and it worked enough to get me home.
The trailer manufacturer actually has a video showing how to do it...except they hook rear straps to the opposing side shock absorber (double-sided swing arm) with the strap going over the tire...as if that can't slip during transport. In photos, they attached to the fucking exhaust pipe.
Then again, some people trust those tension grip tie downs...even with heavy loads.
It has been explained to you. You went in totally opposite direction, did not listen, it is even more retarded now vs. last time although I did not think it was even possible. You have talent.
I'm not gonna waste my energy on what is definitely futile effort.
Find my previous post on this particular subject.
Most people fail in basic physics, you are in that group, and would do yourself huge favor by listening to me.
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2 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:
Yeah. It's an inherent flaw of the trailer. Rear anchor points are too close and on the trailer axle. Straps need to have minimal to no contact with each other or hard points on the item being secured because that's where friction can compromise them. My first failures going to PA was from the ratchet rubbing against the other strap which had a hard point behind it. Coming home, the damage is minimal, but just the shaking of the bike started to do damage. There's also blemishes in the paint where the straps were applied. Never had this issue with the truck, but the anchor points are higher and farther out...ensuring the straps are going away from the bike, not along it. I'll edit with photos to illustrate.
Still, other than the migraine/allergy issues on Saturday, it was good to see everyone. 🤧
First failed strap…
Friction wear from ratchet portion of straps.
Method used for the trip home…which more or less worked.
Anchor location (rear)…
The silver-colored mounts for the rear foot pegs are the correct anchor points for rear straps per BMW. Never had an issue with a truck or trailer, so the problem is having the anchors too close to the bike and directly (more or less) below the bike’s anchor points. Straps should flow away from the bike and not need to run along it.
FWIW, I added the thick, white zip ties to ensure the hooks couldn’t come loos should slack develop, and they held fine. Something I’ll remember for the future.
I need head steering damper. Your strap job could not possibly be more retarded. Totally wrong, but we've already told you that once before. Or maybe 100 times.
Since you don't listen to anyone who actually has a clue my only suggestion is to keep buying straps. And take plenty of them with you when towing, because you are gonna keep replacing those straps.
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Curious if people will be restoring Teslas in 50 years from now,,,,,,
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23 hours ago, SwampNut said:
I mostly use the bike around town, lots of errands and stops. The frunk is cool but it's just a huge gaping, deep hole. Needed improvement.
Looks like perfect place to install toilet bowl.
The lid is already there.
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Damn, that thing looks brand new.
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Example of United States customer getting fucked any way possible by pharmaceutical industry.
While I was in Poland I bought 3 months supply of Ozempic for someone here in United States. Prescription only but that was not an issue, half of my family over there are doctors. Paid 100% full price.
Cost? Little over 1200 Pl Zloty or around 300 bucks.
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Nice CF covers.👍🏼
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You gain fat and weight if you exercise? Was that article originally posted at Onion?
People will believe unbelievable bull shit to justify their couch potato life style. Lol.
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19 minutes ago, Zero Knievel said:
Sigh.... Research "grazing."
Well, true vegans graze as well.
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15 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
I ran my '01 with the Yosh 4-1 full system and no tuning, ran great and made noticeably more mid-high RPM power. Low RPM, below 4k, seemed to be weaker than stock, to be expected, but I was surprised at how much it gained higher up. Your cans on the stock header I expect the power band to not change as much as the full system, but still pick up a bit of power. Probably more low-mid power and less high end compared to the 4-1. Switching from the Yosh cans to a full system might be a mild enough change to not notice, I went from stock to the Yosh system so it was a bigger change.
When you get the Erion please post a couple pics of it, I'm curious to see how the pipes/collector are laid out.
Youshimura header was 4-2-1 not 4-1. Stock header on 99 and up had different pairing of primaries vs. carb models. Former favoring midrange, and Ram Air talking care of some lost top end.
AFAK all aftermarket headers had paring of primaries similar to carb models.
I run 99 FI model without anything for first year or two before PC2 became available. It run good but bike got much better highway fuel economy with property tuned power commander.
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13 hours ago, IcePrick said:
Please name the things we get from meat that we can't get "elsewhere". I can line up a half-dozen highly athletic vegans that will disprove your theory.
List of athletic vegans please.
Also, can you actually eat grass and it's derivatives like hay like cows do? Well, I can't. I prefer cows to convert it into something eatable like a meat, cheese, Greek yogurt, and plain old good fashion milk. Do you feed babies with milk or grass in liquid form?
BTW, people on vegan diet produce way more greenhouses gases vs. meat eaters. Probably more vs. all those cows
Have you included that in your calculations? How much energy is being used to produce all that additional toilet paper? And other things of that nature? You shit way more on vegan diet, etc.
I think fake meat concept is retarded from nutritional point of view, kind of like turning 🥩 into charcoal.
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4 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:
Here is a pic of my RS-3. They are early ones that are made of aluminum. I think they went to stainless later.
When I got mine, early 1999, they were available in aluminum, carbon fiber and titanium. They do sound different, carbon fiber being the most musical and loudest, IMHO of course. Mine were titaniums.
IIRC RS3 cans are separate piece without head pipes, spring loaded assembly.
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11 hours ago, ptxyz said:
i remember hearing their cans are loud. will it be too much compared to my current yoshi slip-ons?
bike's an '01 with the o2 and pair delete. i have a pc3 that's yet to be installed.
What Yoshi? IIRC they had two types of cans, street legalish Zyclone with clever inner tapered tube, and straight thru RS-3 race baffle. The latter obviously being louder.
My XX had full system RS3 with titanium oval can. Was not too bad, certainly not obnoxious.
IIRC Erion with it's smallish round cans was rather on loud side of aftermarket cans spectrum.
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On 7/10/2023 at 9:12 PM, Tom said:
I'm looking for advice on setting up those good old forks on the Blackbird.
To put things in a bit of perspective, I posted about my last years "big service" where I was recommended a shop by a "friend" which ended up in fiasco, none of the bearings were installed on the bike (so the guy stole dozen of Koyo bearings I bought for the bike) and the fork was botched and leaked the same day I got the bike from the shop.
Without going into that topic, this year I decided to service the forks before my little trip to Italy. I went to a local garage where I used to go few years ago, figured the guy would be decent enough to put together something as complex and the damper rod prototype high tech Showa shocks on the Bird.
The bike was finished day before my trip, I didn't have much time to test it, I had specific dates and places to get to and I hoped that the forks would work better than the seal-busted-after-100-meters forks of last year. The guy told me everything was top notch perfect, he changed the steering bearing as well the main one on top of the steering, and he told me he mixed oils to get the perfect oil viscosity for my weight. Sounded good in theory, but...
My trip to Italy was the worst I had with the Bird, I have never ever experienced a bike so jittery, no damping whatsoever, every single slightest bump in the road and the bike would jump, or fall into a punched-in part of the road, it was hell, I thought about turning back dozen of times but I just didn't want this fucker to spoil my "holiday".
So now I just want to know, what would be the best idea to sort this out, I'll travel 500 miles (and 500 more :D) to find a decent shop I don't care, I want it done.
I'm 230lbs, I'm running linear 10 N/mm springs, I have a brand new Nitron R1 (no piggyback) made to my weight and ride habits in the back, never touched the +/- dial on it or anything, and I would like to know which cSt oil should I put, how important is air gap, manual says 142mm and Hyperpro said 120mm, and what should I do also to set the sag on the bike and dial the suspension for once in my life, have the bike ride normally and nicely on weekend twistys that I usually go to. That's all I want ffs
Have you adjusted/checked preload on your brand new shock? The sag should be adjusted with you on the bike off the center stand, you most likely would need somebody to help you with this.
Once the sag is correct you can play with -/+ dial, that in your particular case is basically rebound adjuster.
That would be the start to pin point your issues.
Good link, skip the part about the fork becouse XX no adjustments on the front. BTW, you say it has non stock 10N/mm springs, but what about spacers?
https://www.cycleworld.com/sport-rider/ask-geek-set-your-static-sag/
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1 hour ago, SwampNut said:
A lot of people say you can renew rubber with a mix of alcohol and wintergreen. I haven't tried it myself.
Lol. Today is your luckily day, no comment from me.
He is talking about rubber thingy attached to slides in the carb. So called membrane. Rubber leaks- won't hold vacuum- no go. There is no effing way to "renew it" with alcohol and winter green. Lol. Thanks for the laugh.
It looks like chinesum versions are available on ebay. They are cheap too. Buy 20 of those.
Good luck, and welcome here at .org.
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And you need to beat the shit out of it to brake in the engine. Compression could still be low and too much internal friction. That's why it idles low.
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You need to install jet kit for the bike. And properly adjust carburetor.
If you bump idle speed it will actually make bike harder to start.
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Safety wire no? What about rivet instead of bolt?
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Safety wire.
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Just updated tags.
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2 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
Most truckers and service places way over lube 5th wheel plates. No matter how much is applied, once the trailer slides on there's only so much left in place.
And it all ends up on air lines, cat walk, front mud guard and, eventually, on your gloves, pants, boot soles and God only knows where else. Fucking retarded.
There is a 5 gallon bucket of grease in our shop. There are always couple idiots running frantically in the morning with big stick covered with grease, and applying it on everything in their eye sight. I gave up on that type of driver couple decades ago. They are not gonna changed their behavior.
I've never ever lubricated fifth wheel in last 30 years. Shop applies couple ounces when truck goes for PM. Thats more than enough.
I've never ever lubricated anything other than wheel bearings on my trailer. The ball and receiver covered with grease,, ,,, it is retarded.
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15 hours ago, Furbird said:
Learned that from the long haul truckers that lube the every loving shit out of their fifth wheels with that stuff. 🤣
Nope. Actually it is pretty retarded. It is better to keep it underlubed vs. too much grease. 99 % of that shit gets scraped off fifth wheel when you get under the trailer, and it ends up everywhere except actual contact area of fifth wheel. And there is almost always more than enough grease already on the trailer. And most importantly, grease ends on on locking jaws. Big no non.
Technically, if you wanna do it right, you should lube contact area on the trailer.
Never, ever lubricate parts of locking mechanism with anything other than PB Blister, WD40, etc. They need to be kept clean, without thick grease/dust compound restricting movement. Otherwise when temperature drops jaws won't move, and properly lock king pin.
When we get artic weather there will be somebody with trailer off fifth wheel sitting on the side of the road even though it did pass tug test.
You gotta get behind the tractor with flesh light to make sure everything is in place after hooking up to the trailer.
In the same sense don't ever lubricate inner legs of landing gear with grease. Use WD40, etc.
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Trailering and tying down bikes
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by tomek
Please continue. I'm positive we have not seen yet your absolutely the best in this particular area.
Please continue this Festival Of Absurd in Physics. Kinda like anti Noble Prize and Special Olympics of Motorcycle Towing.