tomek
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Posts posted by tomek
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There are better brands then Dunlop,my 220 was showing steel cords on my vacation trip after 4500 miles.Anything but Dunlop.
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[/quote/Like Oil-comparing race tires is a tad controversial--but a comment like "H2`s,awesome tire,lightning years better then 208GP and little better then Supercorsa" is a tad far-fetched---I havent used the H2s and I never will, they have a pretty nasty reputation out here of "letting" go at odd times--I have too many friends that went from Dunlop D208GPs to H2s and crashed due to some weirdness, most were pretty accomplished racers.The S2/M2 is supposed to be better combo. I used to use the Rennsports(same as the Persmellis) RS1/2. But the rear would be dust in a single day, so I upgraded to the D208GP-As, they work very well and the rear tends to last about 2X longer than the Rennsports208 Gp had same high speed instability problems ,at least on my R1 at 150+ (Road America,Grattan) otherwise very forgiving,used to run sc1/sc2 combo,rear was pretty much toast after one day.
H2 needs long warm up,like two laps but other then that I like the feedback and the way the rear slides/drifts.It seems to last longer too.
My reasoning for going to Michelins is as follows:every GP team uses Michelins (O.K. there are some exceptions but those teams don`t count) and you hear all those guys who learnt to ride on Dunlops having problems with French tires after the switch,so when finally Honda/ Yamaha/Ducati calls me I will be ready :grin:
I`ve have not tried 208 Gp A but I`m pretty much stockpiled for the season,maybe next year.
BTW H2 turns in much better on the brakes.
Also, perhaps "lightning years better" was a slight overkill :oops:
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Michelin builds very good tires all across the line, Pilot Sport,Road,H2,100X,can`t go wrong with Michelin.Did trackday Sunday on H2`s,awesome tire,lightning years better then 208GP and little better then Supercorsa.
What trully sucks they are a French company.
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Whatever you do don`t let brake fluid run dry in reservoirs .There are some horizontal lines in the brake system and those would be a bitch to bleed if air enters them.Basically follow manual but keep reservoirs full of fluid.Stop when fresh fluid starts flowing of the bleed valve and go to the next one.That`s about it.
Btw when I said "keep reservoirs full of fluid" I meant let them run almost dry then fill them with fresh fluid etc.
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I have Lockhart Phillips front stand from Chaparral for 85 $ , and couple Pitt Ball swing arm stands.Pit balls are better quality,thicker tubing makes them much more stable,durable finnish while paint on LP is cheap and keeps peeling off.LP is rather el chepo.
Also keep in mind that chorn has to be removed,I guess guy responsible for placing it on the bike had too much sake day before.
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There is nothing like good oil flame wars.Mobil 1 here,yes from Walmart,I`ve never bought motorcycle spec oil in my life.
Cheapo car spec 10W/40 during brake in then Mobil 1.
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FI on XX is a single throttle system and as such on/off throttle response will be questionable and jerky.It can be tune out to some degree by dumping more fuel ( richening ) in offending area of rpm/ % of throttle opening to make engine come on power softer but I don`t think it can be removed completely.
I understand that Yamaha`s and Suzuki`s dual throttle systems are much better in this regard.First gen FI Gixxer 750 had single throttle and had the same problem,later they "invented" second throttle just to cure it.
I really like Yamaha`s FI on new r1/r6 models,very simple and it works.
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I just checked on my of H2s and slicks,they are all made in Spain,Pilots are made in Spain too,,,,,,,,,though still Franch company,,,,
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He got to into massive tankslapper and highsided,hit the fence,his heart stopped,airlifted,fighting for his life,,,,,
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Try to wheelie the bike.
"When it`s wheeling it`s not shaking"-Scott Russell 1994
Some bikes do that,XX is one of them unless you put fresh front tire every 200 miles.But seriously you should be more carefull,look what happend to poor Kato on RCV 211 at Suzuka.I pray for him.
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Here is usefull information, www.mototuneusa.com
In reality it does not contradicts manual.
Welcome to break-in flaming wars :twisted:
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Just one thing to remember,LIndemann,or Kyle modified Showa or whatever forks or valves are not your stock parts anymore.
Valves are polished,holes are enlarged and reshaped,shimes are polished and altered.
The only thing those valves and stock parts have in common are the fact they started from the same piece of metal.
Now, if you live near by or can afford timewise to ship your forks, it is a valid option but can you achive the same results using stock valves by yourself?No way.
For those of us tring to do forks ourself aftermarket valves are the only option.
Also if I remember correctly many racing classes in various racing organizations (AFM) prohibit using non-stock fork intervals ( to keep cost down).
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Once you learn how to do it tire change is very easy,provading your not dealing with ST1100 with 7 years old tires.
The most difficult part is breaking the bead,all the rest is very easy,there is no need to cut tire,use brute force, etc,,
I guess it depends,for 11.99 for tire I would not bother providing they do it right away,but if I had to drop wheels and pick up later,,,,,,,it takes me less then two easy hours to change both tires,less the hour if I go to my cousin`s shop (compressor).
We have three bikes in a household ,that means 4-5 tire changes per year ,I can`t imagine going to the dealer every time.
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I`ve had good luck with Honda HP chain lube .
Why am I replacing my CCT - AGAIN!?!?
in The Garage
Posted
Quick answer-no.That little spring goes soft,sole reason for our CCT problems.