tomek
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Posts posted by tomek
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Honestly,on liter bike you would not be able to tell the difference performance wise 530 vs 520 chain.On race track,you might get 0.1 second per lap.I mean,you can spin tire almost at will anyway .I know everyone goes to 520 on track bikes but unless you get paid for riding/racing for glory,etc why bother IMHO.
Stock R1 does come with strongest 530 like DID ZVM.
I put on XX 10-13 k miles per year,or I have to replace 530 ZVM once every 2 years,with 520 it would mean, at least, yearly replacement.Too many bikes and cars between me and my girlfriend.I`m sick of doing maintenence type of work on all of them,tunning is a different story.
You won`t have fatal type of failure with 520,but you will have to replace the chain at least twice as often.
Another factor ,liter bikes make more power but don`t weight nearly as much as XX.
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I`d say it would last 5-8 k miles on XX.Once I run 530 DID VM on Yzf 1000 ( actually 1040
),lasted 12 k miles instead of 20+ k in case of DID ZVM.You don`t need stinky 520 chain on big bore inline four
,it does reduce unsprung weight though. -
Well it is not silver,it is galaxy gray,more like a platinium.R1 is silver/blue.The pictures don`t do a justice to House of Kolor paints that I used.Paint is with very rich,bright with deep gloss and sparkle,better then O.E.M. finish.The Blue and Silver blackbird looks like its trying to be a busa..
BTW I`ve always liked busa`s blue/silver paint job,ther is no doubt in my mind that my XX now is a fast as busa.
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You have to pull masking tape sooner then later,basically asap,this way risk of pulling the paint is reduced.Pull ahead and away.You can get good results with just regular masking tape,though 3 M makes so-called plastic tape that is just for that.Auto paint store will have those.
When retaping for second color make sure there is just a hairline of fresh paint sticking out, this way no primer will show where the colors meet.
Here my 2 tone paint job on XX.No I did not crashed,just finally got fad up with pos factory black paint.
BTW,I painted R1 also
I did have time to clean them,rubbing compound everywhere
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280 $ for used part :shock: :shock: .Honda`s bodywork prices are totally insane.Anyone wants to know how much is a similar part for 04 R1 ? 72-76 bucks depending on the colour.Tail section is 136 $ vs 355 $ for 1100 XX.Prices are from www.mrcycles.com
I used them couple of times .They are pretty good
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Walmart is a pile of junk,btw like most walmart branded goods.One lasted one year,second one purchased at the same time-2 years.Basically it is garbage.If you have long lasting one from Walmart you just got lucky.
Right now I have Power Max unit from Dennis Kirk.It is gel filled sealed piece.58 bucks.I had similar battery on my R1,it was 3 years old when I sold that bike,never give me a problem.They have very good cranking power,totally maintenance free.
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I would just stick with the easy answer you already mentioned. It's good practice to check steering head bearing adjustment and front tire wear and balance, but I think anything else is overkill, and probably not worth the bother. There is an inverse relationship between stability and maneuverability with motorcycles, just as with aircraft. Front line fighters and aerobatic aircraft are inherently unstable, but this allows them to be highly maneuverable. Inherently stable aircraft, like transport category aircraft, maneuver like trucks-very large trucks.
The same is true with motorcycles. The manufacturer must strike a balance between stability and maneuverability using steering head angle, rake and trail measurements according to the expected use of the particular model. I have noticed the oscillation at approximately the same speed on many road bikes, and as long as I can dampen and control the oscillation with light hand pressure on the bars, I don't worry about it. Now if the bike wanted to go into a tankslapper or weave at that speed, I would truly be concerned.
+1.Just get use to it .If that was Ducati or BMW,wait on BMW, those guys are sooooo perfect,-wrong example-,owners would be bragging about the character etc,,,,There is nothing wrong with the bike.To whatever jrdxx said I would throw frame ,swingarm and front fork flex factor.How about that?
So,just get use to it or spend the lifetime trying get rid of that.
Some bikes just do that,worse on some tires/used tires,better on new ones.
BTW if I remember right my old FJ12 did that too.
BTW what is wrong with tankslapper,my ex- 99 r1 was slapper happy bike.You just have to remember to pump your front brakes.( front pads get pushed away from rotors when it happens)
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There is a large number of people who went bald/insane/commited suicide while trying to jet ram air systems..I would not do it,it is not as easy as it looks.
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Knowing what I know ( not much ) about suspension I would get customized Penske from Traxxion.I would rather spend little more and get something that is custom made for me.I don`t belive in "one size fits all" as far as suspension.
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Comparing compresson ratios from different bikes does not really tells us much.Just becouse bimmer has 13.0 and XX 11.0 does not mean much.There is couple factors,like filling efficiency,cam duration and combustion chamber design.
Longer duration cams allow higher CR becouse intake valve closes later on compression stroke basically ,,,,,,,,,,,uh compressing mixture less. Or you could retard stock intake cam,but that is kinda counterproductive.
Northman bike has,I think,nonstock cams,that is how he can get away with 13.2 CR. Stock XX has mild,short duration cams and doubt that number would work well.I would try something in 12-12.5 range.
There is no pont in going to really high CR and then being forced to retard ignition due to detonation.
Shaving cylinder head does nothing to squish number.Squish areas on cylinder head side are flesh with cylinder head surface.Only thinner cylider head gasket or shaving cylinder block improves squish.Due to one piece upper crankcase/cylinder block design that means taking whole engine a part.
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I would say check the sparkplugs,but,,,,,,,,,Here is what happened to me couple years ago.Filled up both bikes (97 Yamaha ( carburated),and 99 XX (fi)), in Wyoming,rode for about 50 miles,loaded on the trailer ,drove home.
Tried to start start Yamaha a week later,no go.Tried every trick in the book,jumping from the car,starting fluid,walking clockwise around the bike,no luck.
Only after I drained carbs and fuel tank,filled her up with fresh gas she would start on the first crank.
Answer-We just got really shitty fuel in WY.
BTW I had no probs with Honda,go figure.Well, I guess one is FI,easier starting.
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Allright,why don`t you try those for us :twisted: :twisted:
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Titanium Ti-force is IMHO the best value.It is gonna be the lightest and probably give the best power gains by virtue of being made of Ti.
It is no joke.All thinks being equal titanium headers vs.stainless steel headers Ti will make more power.
Roadracing World tasted M4 full exhaust on superstock spec GSXR 750.Stainless stell headers made 145 rwhp,Titanium -148 rwhp,with more power everywhere.They used the same muffler for both tests.They where done like 30 minutes apart..
They theorized that Ti retains exhaust heat better therefore pipe worked more efficiently.
Anyway it is pretty interesting,should make one think twice before replacing stock titanium header on many bikes with aftermarked ss parts.
That Ti-Force is about 1150 $.
BTW I have full Race Yosh, very good quality and good sound and power.
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good 2 part glue + safety wire.You`ll get squid bonus points for safety wire.Anyway,who recommended WD40 ? :twisted: :twisted:
Might as well try that on your tires :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
Really,2 part epoxy will do,but make sure to clean bars and grips with something like acetone before application,otherwise it won`t bond.
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It can be done without specialized tools.You will need nice flathead screwdriver to punch 1st bearing out.It has to be good quality piece without rounded out corners,no soft metal cheap P.O.S.
It is good idea to place your new bearings in the freezer overnight,they will fit in easier this way.
Socket will work,or old bearings placed on the top of the new ones to get them going.Be carefull not to damage dust seals.
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It is a wax element that is responsible for that.Try to snap the throttle couple of times before starting the bike. Sometimes it will "unstick" offending part.Also you could try to lubricate area where wax element pushes on some sort of cam lobe.
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I`m running out of ideas,I go thru about 5 sets per year.I`d like to hear from you,throwing them into someone`s dumpster ( bussines) is not funny anymore. :oops: :oops:
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Peter,I have shit loads of Permatex here in CHicago.You are more then welcome to swing by and get some.
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I would try swapping ECUs ,see if that changes anythink.Also I would not dismiss role of mixture and ignition timing ( pc). There is no 2 bikes that have exactly the same ignition and cam timing plus run excatly the same mixture.Unless you blueprint them.
Little things like amount of carbon deposits in combustion chambers and exhaust valve can effect running temperature.
Years ago,I and Peter run in the heavy traffic in 90 deg,his bike was all stock ( back then), mine had full system ,PC2 with 93 octane map.Mine did run cooler.( analog gauges,3/4 vs almost all the way to the high)
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The problem with Walmart so called battery is that they are not really maintenance free,electrolite level goes down if you ride a lot in hot weather,battery is toast before you realize that.That`s how the first one died,level was way low.At that time I opened the second one ,sure enough it was low too,but not as bad as the first one,I`ve filled up with distilled water,it lasted one more year.
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Don˛t buy those,they are fucking junk.I got couple 2 years ago,one died last year,second went south couple weeks ego.Junk.Junk.
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Get front and rear ride heights with you on the bike before changing springs,shocks etc.This way you will be able to readjust your suspension after installing new parts without guesswork.Do that or you will get speed wobbles behind semi
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the diablo I had on my xx barely lasted 4k...but I kinda rode it pretty aggressively (for me)...
Hmmmmm,Pilot Sport barely lasted lasted 3k miles on my XX,but I got 5 K from that tire on R1,so ,,,,,,should I expect 6 K from Diablo on R1 ?
If any of you dudes had that tire on XX I would like to hear your milage report also.Thanks.
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I have set of Pirelli Diablo` on R1.These are regular Diablo`s,not corsa or supercorsa.We`ll be going on vacation pretty soon,here is a question
Is the rear tire going to last 4-5 k miles on the road trip with 120 pounds female piloting the bike? She is not a tire burner typo person or kneedragger,easy miles.If you had them on liter bike I would like to hear your milage report.BTW they are good street skins.
I suppose that tire is similar to Metzeler M1.My friend gets 5-6 miles from the rear on VFR.
HELP please
in The Garage
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I just wanna mention one thing in this "proggresive " spring issue.
In case of the front fork,it is progressive anyway even with straight rate spring due to the air gap being compressed and acting like progressive spring .With progressive spring it just gets more ,,,,,,,,,,uhm,progressive.
If you increase air gap it gets less progressive and vice-versa.