tomek
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Posts posted by tomek
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Just make one of your dogs sit on her lap. Problem solved.
Btw, my ex was/is in 110 pounds range. Never had that issue.
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3 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
In my case they were usable within a couple days. The boots I did were much thinner so they probably soften much faster, but they also needed to be much more pliable to be able to fit them. Carb mounting boots just need to be less than rock hard. They will re-harden, but it shouldn't matter 'till the next time the carbs need to be removed.
The down side is that I don't know how well they'll re-seal to the head. If they use an o-ring that's a simple solution. If they use the molded rubber as the seal I'd probably coat them with aviation sealer.
Just clean the shit very well, preferably with, of course, small amount of acetone. If you wipe out quickly it won't hurt nothing. And use some sealer. It is not like it is forced induction. Pressure differential is not that great. Should be good till next removal.
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IIRC brianmacza moved from South Africa to one of neighbouring countries.
Partzilla might not be an option.
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I'd replace radiator as well. I don't even wanna know how fins look after all those miles.
Get Chinesum from Amazon. Easier to replace/return if anything wrong with it. And radiator is not exactly rocket science. China will work fine.
Left lower corner makes contact with foam on inside of lower fairing. On my bike that particular piece of foam was packed with sand etc. I acted as a sand paper, eventually rad started to leak there. You may wanna check those areas out.
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Forgot to mention 20kw or 27hp engine giving 0 to 60 time of "eventually".
No wonder nobody wanted it.
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Let's inject reality and facts into this thread.
They had 25-50 mile range. Lol. 16-18 grand for that? Really?
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And, btw. For the price of having read tested by professional shop you could
Buy necessary tools you could do it on your own without removing rad.
Or
Just buy eBay Chinesum rad.
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Could be thermostat acting up. Are thermostat and housing clean? No crap there? How about water pump? Nothing blocks the flow there?
Other than that you are dealing with 18 years radiator. Cooling system on XX was barely adequate even when those bikes were brand. It might be time for new radiator.
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Just pray them out. Get bigger/ sharper screwdriver. Don't overthink it. You are not gonna hurt the head. Trust me.
Also, new ones have the tendency to fall out during installation. Extremely aggravating. Many different tactics can be employed to keep them in place. Like crazy glue, or even thick grease. Added bonus in form of smoke for couple of minutes in case of latter.
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20 hours ago, poida said:
i bought e22 litre panniers to use so i can still lane split.have used 36 litre panniers in the past but not being able to lane split a lot of the time negated the advantage of extra luggage capacity. one 22 litre pannier carries my tent with room left for a few smaller items,the other carries sleeping bag,air mattress,small stove and pot with cup and any other small items like summer or winter gloves.
this is at a camp ground in spain.from memory it was around 8 or 9pm
forgot to add,i made the rack myself out of square tubing and flat bar so that the panniers and top box sit as low and close to rear axle as practical
It is awesome. Camping, motorcycle, nice weather, etc. Does not get better than this.
I'm leaving on my annual West trip exactly one week from now. Can't wait.
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Two per workday, none on weekends, that's about 10 per week.
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I usually take them with me on mountain hikes and skiing. They are not bad, but otherwise I avoid things of that nature like a plaque.
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That's truly awful, bags are installed wide and high. Mine custom set up is much nicer.
I'd keep them after the vacations, but, but, but. With Givi bags every time you wanna open it you gotta use the key. Idiot proof, you won't take off with bags unlocked, but truly annoying. Like when I get to work I throw gloves in the bag. Or groceries, etc. No hell, no way.
Honda's OEM bags not require using keys. Of course, it means I leave them unlocked all the time.
So, once I get back from the trip brackets are off, and stock bags go back on.
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I have plan. Load heavier shit in side bags, and lightweight things like sleeping bag, clothes, etc. in top case. I'll be fine. Good pilot car fly on barn door.
1 hour ago, DaveK said:Exact case I bought for the Honda XR. Identical. Dollar for dollar - it was awesome.
I like rails/attachment points on the top. I've permanently attached bungee net on the top. I can keep mash jacket there in case it gets too damn hot. I still have trauma after last year's ride from Colorado Springs to Omaha in 108 F. And high humidity. No clue how I survived. 😁
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It all has started last fall when my ex called me. "There is estate sale right next to where you live, lottsa motorcycle related items, yada da". Not that she really cares about me, but in case there was something she liked I would help her throw it in her station wagon. Lol.
Anyway, I scored nice brand new Givi V35 cases, although without mounting kit. Factory bags- I have those- are really nice, but on small side. 28 liters. Allegedly.
Perfectly fine for local riding but too small for cross country trips. I do love camping. I figured I would get mounting kit from Givi. Except it had been discontinued and not available. At all. Denis Kirk had one for FZ6 for 1/3 of factory price, it looked I could make it work with some creativity. Then project went on back burner.
I'm leaving for my annual trip in about 10 days, yesterday finally decided to do it. Was not that difficult. Extra bend here or there, relocated bracket in the back holding right and left side together.
The end result is better vs. Givi mounting kit because I don't have huge OEM muffler, could keep bags nice, tight and closer to the bike. As a matter of fact the bike is borrower vs. Honda bags by about 1 inch. Oh, btw, painted L shaped side covers in bike's matching Platinum pearl.
The other point of attack was top case. I do have teardrop shaped Givi bag that I hate with passion. It splits mid height, can't really load much in it without shit falling out when you open it.
Enter Chinesum aluminum fake Givi bag. It appears built well enough to use it for couple weeks per year. I don't use top bag to local everyday riding.
50 bucks for side cases, 60 for FZ6 mounting kit, and 170 for fake 65 liters Givi top case.
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I'm somewhat interested btw.
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What is the difference between civilian Windows and pro?
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I've had this for about 1.5 years. Holding up really well. Carbon fiber/titanium frame hybrid polarized green prescription lenses, can't remember how much I paid, probably around 100 bucks or so.
Walmart will make nice polarized lenses to about anything you bring BUT if prescription from their place is too old they won't make lenses till you get fresh one. That was 80 bucks last time, plus 120 for lenses.
Now, my prescription have not changed ever, or since I realized I need glasses for long distance, so it feels like waisting money, but other online places are more expensive vs Walmart even with cost of prescription.
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I've used them number of times. Usually takes them around one week to get prescription glasses l.
Some of their frames can be polarized, some not. I prefer polarized but just tint is OK as well. I always want green g15 tint, no guess work. I know what I want.
I used to get expensive glasses, but it got old quickly. I drive for living, wear glasses pretty much all the time, so they don't last long.
Just ordered one clear for helmet, and one green tint for car/truck/outdoors. Frames are ok but screws have the tendency to back off. Even with thread lock. Lol. 100 bucks total for prescriptions. They always have some sort of coupons.
Having said that quality of something like Rayban frames is second to none. They last long time. Even their polarized lenses are different in the sense only round section right in the front of your eyeballs is polarized, and the rest not. Or maybe the other way. The point is you can see shit on displays, etc. Cheaper lenses are uniform, entire surface polarized or not.
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You could remove whatever you can, and then just flip it and let it rest against the wall, etc. Secure to the wall.
It would be criminal not to check main and, if accessable, rod bearings. I would not fuck with plasti gauge, if signs of wear at uncomfortable level replace them going by numbers of crank and cases.
I had to fix 6th gear on my VFR1200. Engine removal being V4 is epic, biblical and monumental pain in the ass to the square. 4 times amount of work vs. inline 4.
Essentially you have to lift off the frame of the engine, and reverse it on installation. You gotta remove front forks, driveshaft, rear pain in the ass headers. Basically bike has to be strip down to the frame except gauges, triple tree and rear subframe.
In retrospect bike flip would be much, much quicker.
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On 7/6/2024 at 10:25 AM, racer212 said:
I posted a good while ago about my goal to be in the best condition of my life when I turn 50 this November. At age 48 and flirting with 260lbs - I set myself some fitness and weight goals.
1- Being able to run a continuous mile in under 10 mins (I used to be a good long distance runner - but hadnt been able to run without serious pain in almost a decade)
2- Bench press my bodyweight
3- Be able to do pull up cold with good form
4- Squatting my body weight (sets of 5)
5- body weight under 200lbs
None of these are earth shattering Olympic level target - but when I set these bench marks more than 2 years ago I was a long way from being able to hit any of them. I still cant for the life of me get under 200lbs - I hover about 205 but body comp keeps moving - body fat coming down, muscle coming up. For reference I was wearing 38 jeans and might well have needed bigger. Now I'm wearing 34 inch jeans with a belt - and have bought some 32's. I still struggle with the bench press - but more because of my shoulder rebuild than lack of strength.
So with 50 fast approaching and my goals essentially achieved I decided to enter 3 events to celebrate.
1 - a "Lazyman" Triathlon. Its a full length triathlon but you get a whole month to do it. Thats happening right now (July). Again - not Olympic level but still a lot. This week I have done 50 mile bike ride, 10 miles running (sub 10 pace!) and 2000M swim - and I'm still keeping up my normal workout routines-ish.
2- In September my gym holds a challenge. Using a "Jacobs Ladder" aka mountain climber the competition is to climb the height of Mt Everest (29k feet). Technically just completing the climb in a month completes the challenge - but there is some bragging rights and prizes for the 1st 5 to complete it. I aim to be in that group.
3-In November, just after my birthday, theres a 10k charity run I have entered. I'm setting myself the goal of running it - and doing it in less than an hour (6.2mph / 9:40 mile pace)
Fuck turning 50. Lets do this!
Fucking Awesome. Way to go.
All physical health benefits of exercise aside, it is also huge mood enhancement.
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I see those TechSpecs pads all the time at race track. Definitely black, clear turn yellowish and look like ass after awhile.
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4 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
Old news. Most synthetics have been crude based for decades, and they're still better than conventional oils. The source of the base oil means little compared to how it's processed and what's added. 'True' synthetics can have an advantage, but I'll rarely pay the difference.
The only oil related engine failure I've known of that wasn't being abused happened with Amsoil. It actually was being abused, and I expressed my concern, but Amsoil said that the oil was good for 25k mile intervals so he didn't know he was abusing the engine. After the failure he found that his engine was one of the ones that were excluded from their warrantee. For the money, you're better off using a cheaper oil and changing it more often. Engines will live a long happy life on any off the shelf oil that meets the specs. If you're willing to buy high dollar oil and change it frequently you might have a happier engine, but being that properly maintained engines don't have oil related failures I find it rather pointless.
Also, the viscosity and oil change intervals suggested by your vehicle's manufacturer were chosen to make the government happy, not to prolong the life of the engine. Using the recommended viscosity is usually safe, but the intervals are typically too long. The omission of a break-in oil change is also hurting engines.
An example of US government influenced oil recommendations: A customer's old Mercedes called for 5-30 and 7,500 mile intervals. In Germany the same car called for 10-30 to 20-50 depending on temperature and driving habits and a 3K to 5k interval. Anyone who's been a car guy for a long time will remember that the manuals used to call for a break-in service and varying viscosities, now there's no break-in and a one size fits all viscosity recommendation. I remember being blown away when 5-30 oil hit the scene. When 0-20 became a thing I thought there was no way it would go lower, now we're down to 0-8! I wonder if the next step will be negative numbers.
Funny fact. Long oil intervals are big marketing tool in Europe for couple reasons. First, oil is insanely expensive, like double US price, and OEMs can deny warranty unless scheduled maintenance was done at dealership. That includes oil changes as well. So, they push extended intervals. Or maybe it has something to do with insane tree huggers.
So, my brother in law in Poland got CX5 with 2.5 engine. Lust like US counterpart, and just what my wife drives. It does say in his manual to change oil every 30k kilometers or 18k miles. I shit you not. My head almost exploded when I saw that. I told him in no uncertain terms to change oil every 10-12 k kilometers or once his warranty expires his engine will expire as well.
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Rebuild time... '97 getting some much needed attention
in The Garage
Posted
Technically yes, but only during shifts and engine braking operation.