tomek
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Posts posted by tomek
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Yep. Phone camera is blessing in situation like this.
Not particularly related to this subject, but when doing more involved disassembly Ziploc bags and zip ties are very handy in organizing fasteners. Throw them in ziploc and attach with ziplock to whatever part you just pulled out.
Huge time saver when putting shit back together. Especially if you doing it days or weeks later. Because, Bill Clinton voice, "my memory is not what it used to be". 😁
No precious time wasted trying to figure out what screw goes where, etc.
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Oh, never mind.
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If wires are different length the fastest way to do it is to replace them one by one. Put old one, find new one that matches the length, install it, and so on. Otherwise it can drive normally sane person crazy.
Same approach when replacing vacuum lines, etc.
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My ex's yzf1000r starter clutch did not like m1 15-50. It would disengage after couple rotations of crankshaft. So, starting could be potentially frustrating experience.
Different oil cured that issue right away.
Gearbox action is better with dedicated mcycle oil.
These days I use Uber expensive triple shit Maxima for track bike, and just regular synthetic mcycle Maxima for Viffer.
Chapmoto has good pricing on Maxima products, and free shipping.
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10 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:
If you've seen the driveshaft, the u-joints are quite small. They may be as large as the swingarm can accommodate, but I'm surprised they aren't beefier than currently designed.
They were designed, obviously, during Oktoberfest. The math was obviously off. Wonder why? 😮
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5 hours ago, Zero Knievel said:
Well, ignoring your utterly childish response, since it’s the u-joints that fail, you are correct that they could be better engineered, and indeed it was complaints to government agencies in several countries that put pressure on BMW to add the shaft to the maintenance schedule and offer a free replacement (needed or not) at 36K at no charge.I know vehicles that have never had u-joint issues. I know some u-joints require(d) regular lube to ensure durability.
Rear Sprocket - $180
Front Sprocket - $84
Chain DID - $120 (varies by seller)
20-30K if well-maintained
So, $380-$400 every time you replace a worn chain on the XX.
Replacement shafts can be had cheaper than direct from BMW. I suspect the cost of free replacement will push BMW to either make them more serviceable or improve their longevity. As far as general inspection and installation, if you wrench your own bike, replacement is easy-peasy and doesn’t need a technician’s tools or skill to do. To “test” BMW does have a computer gizmo that detects vibration in the shaft, and if it exceeds tolerance, or you’re close enough or over the free replacement limit, they just go ahead and replace it under warranty.Keep in mind the value of NOT having to clean and lube your chain every 300 miles or the cost to buying and installing an automated chain oiler.
Yes. Because BMW is the only shaft drive on the market, so it needs to be compared to chain drive bikes. 😂
My VFR1200f is shaft driven. And dozens of other bikes.
BTW, 85k miles on Viffer without shaft issues.
Also, rear sprocket 180 bucks? Front 84? 😂 What medication you forgot to take this morning?
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On 12/6/2024 at 9:42 AM, Zero Knievel said:
The issue is that the universal joints ARE NOT serviceable. That's the part that inevitably will fail. Yea, at 100000000000 miles in case of non BMW. They could engineer them to be a 100,000 mile
Well, then they should. Idea of replacing driveshaft at 30 k miles in 2024 is, frankly, ridiculous. And, oops, with taxes 800 bucks not including labour. Probably another 3-400 bucks. Fuck that shit. Every 30 k miles.
Only those high on BMW Cool Aid would defend retarded design like that. Like Zero.
For the rest of us- we prefer motorcycles design by engineers who have a clue.
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Superior German Engineering.
Never heard of driveshaft being replacement item. Lol.
Replacement of the driveshaft every 36,000 miles (60,000 km) (Driveshaft mileage not vehicle milage).
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That flip is very cool. 👍
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11 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
No clue. Some people love them, some hate them. Most of what I've read was positive, but on one thread it was around 90% negative; noisy, slippy, fast stretching, made their kids turn gay, etc.
The grip area is much smaller and some say that they need much more tension to not slip, others say that they grip as well or better than normal belts. Lots of people say they're not good with high power applications, but there's probably a guy happily running them in his twin turbo 1953 combine that would disagree.
I haven't put my band saw to use since installing it, I'll try to remember to test it later and see what I think of the grip.
The wood chipper- are they wearing out or is shit getting onto them and damaging them?
Wearing. The person who does chipping, a chick, is absolutely obsessed with that process, and can run it non stop for two hrs. Probably out of the design envelope of poor chipper. Lol.
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Would it work in wood chipper? Asking because I'm tired of replacing belts on friend's machine. Something like 7-8 hp.
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Cams are slightly different. Talking about opening and closing times.
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Fucking 👍 awesome Swamp.
Of course, they would look so much better in ICE car. 😜
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12 hours ago, superhawk996 said:
I didn't know this. So they apply some power if the tire slips too much while not using the brake?
Those are active systems, just modulates engine braking based on what rear wheel is doing. That's on the top of general setting based on rider's preference, plus rider can go up or down if he feels it is needed during the race.
Technically system does not apply power, just less engine braking if tire sleeps to much. Simply more throttle.
Fuel consumption is absolutely critical in MotoGp, they don't have enough to run at full power for entire race at most of circuits, certainly they don't wanna waste it to deal with wheel spin under braking.
My R1 factory race kit ECU. There are adjustment tables for engine braking. Gear dependent, rpm, etc. Never touched that. It works good enough, and simply I don't have manpower on one person team to play with that.
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So lactose intolerance in case of Swamp, I guess. It makes dairy bad for everyone. Lol. Because you know, he is the standard of human body. Never mind it is defect and abnormality.
I still stand behind my theory was was gored by some crazy cow.
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I don't cereal at all. All what you can get in typical supermarket is processed loaded with extra sugar corn junk. You have to get flakes In the simplest form. Depending where you live it may be impossible to get in the store, gotta order on line.
I typically eat spell or oat flakes. With almond drink. Drink, because to call it "milk" is an insult to every hard working cow out there. 😁 And, that's the only time I eat almond drink or any other fake dairy.
I agree it sucks in coffee.
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4 hours ago, blackhawkxx said:
On a Blackbird?
Keep in mind some never go really fast.
Speed is main factor in tire longevity. All other things being equal, of course.
There is a huge difference in wear between doing 60-70 mph on long road trip vs. 80-90 mph. Probably like double the wear.
Temperature plays the role as well, hotter equals more tire wear. And rain. Wet and cool, and your tires would last forever.
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4 hours ago, SwampNut said:
Always follow the money. We know that the dairy industry has spent billions in protecting their...cash cow... Most of it is outright bullshit, or at least overstated. I have no doubts that the dairy council somehow boosted the placement of that hit piece in one of the world's most corrupt sources of mainstream media
There has to be something in Swamp's past that has caused his batshit crazy hate toward dairy. I mean guy smokes cigars and drinks whiskey by shopping cart loads (we've seen pictures), and those are perfectly fine, but dairy,,,,,that's gonna kill you right away. And that zero like conspiracy thing by Deadly Dairy. Lol.
My guess is he was gored by cattle, maybe even by cow or two. How else could you explain his insanity on this particular subject?
Collection of Deadly Dairy currently in my fridge. Probably I'm gonna die tomorrow
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10 hours ago, Guest neilwaterton05 said:
Hi to all, newbie here to this site. Been riding for 60 years and recently gave up riding and rebuilding/restoring 650 Triumphs from 60's and 70's. My rides in the garage are an '04 Suzy GSX1400 and a 'Y' reg 2000 Honda Blackbird FI. Standard except for aftermarket carbon cans and a double bubble screen. My query is related to another Blackbird that I am building from scratch, having bought a bare frame with a log book for £30 off of Fleabay. On wheels now, have engine installed, all hooked up with throttle bodies, fuel rail and a few loose wires from various sensors. Can anyone steer me towards the minimum requirements for firing up/starting the motor? I have had it turning over on the starter by hooking up a separate battery to the 2 heavy lines (+-) from the starter motor. My idea was to get a spark at the plugs, give it a dose of easy-start ether and fire it up. Just need to know what is required to get her firing. Many thanks, will be using this forum a lot I hope.
That would crank and cam position sensors Maybe just crank sensor since latter is needed for injector phasing. It is waste ignition system. Assuming ECU is plugged in of course.
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On 10/7/2024 at 12:54 PM, jon haney said:
And a crazy guy building them. Did you see the front-wheel drive/rear-steer bicycle he built? Pretty much unrideable.
His stuff is good for YT likes, but not really practical, except the trailer, maybe. I say "maybe", because how much trouble is a small ramp, really? I'd rather have less weight and fewer moving parts.
Dude you are so out of date. Kinda obsolete, really. 😁
Younger generations are totally into form over function.
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It sucks to be hypochondriac.
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9 hours ago, SwampNut said:
I am sure that whatever diet advice is given above by the person who doesn't even understand what a carbohydrate is must surely be gold. Everyone should just do the opposite.
But back on topic, while individual reactions vary, one thing is for sure. MANY people have issues with dairy. But you may not know until you do a total elimination. This has happened for both Moriah and me. Gastrointestinal issues that I took for granted are now gone when I don't have dairy, and come back instantly with dairy. I posted about it in another thread with regard to the junk food that was the only choice throughout most of NeXXt. I would have just taken it as normal bodily variations if we had not first completely stopped dairy. And for Moriah, small amounts of cheese do very little, larger amounts are obvious. Small amounts of just milk are very obviously bad.
So, just because both of you have health issues and can't, according to you, digest dairy from Walmart and Sam's Club, it means quality milk, yogurt and cheese are bad for everyone. Got it.
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I'm totally with Carlos. Dairy was virtually unknown and not eaten by anyone in the world till Big Dairy and Big Cow started, successfully I might add, brainwashing people at the end of 19th Century. Not that dissimilar to tobacco story.
Initially nobody thought couple cigs, or cigars, here and there would be that harmful. Now we know better. Cigarettes or cigars cause cancer.
Same with dairy. Now we all are better educated and, thanks to people like Carlos, know Geek or Skyr yogurt is just as deadly as pack of Marlboro.
BTW, talking about Skyr Yogurt. I'll be on Iceland Monday-Wednesday. The sole reason for the visit is to check first hand deadly Big Dairy there. Dairy is big on the island. Sad. Local population was brainwashed by the very same forces who forced American People to consume dairy.
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I wish I could throw bull shit and crackhead icons on Carlos's post as well.
But you are limited to just one. Sad.
His post rivals some of the very best Zero's work. 😂
Link belt experience.
in The Garage
Posted
Fargo.