Dano

Get the harbor freight stand and MC attachment. @ $100 Get some good tire irons, at least 3 and some rim savers. Tie a string to each rim saver incase they fall in, much easier to retrieve. If you're spending $45 per wheel you're ahead after two changes. The bead breaker is not the best but it does work once you get the hang of it. Some guys just use a big ass C clamp to break beads. The real issue is to have something that holds the tire/rim firm cause you gotta use some muscle to get the bead over the edge. If you really want to make one, there are plenty of articles out there using old car rims and such to make a holder-clamp fixture. Oh yeah, when you install the new tire, make sure you have the tire rotation right on the rim...

Thanx! I hope to do the inspection sometime this winter. Hope I don't need any but nice to know they are @. Now it's out to the garage to install my new carbon fiber hugger! The family was so surprised to see that Santa left it for me. db done

Dale; Didn't you just do the forks durning the Wilbers buy? I suppose I should check my valve clearances, now at 22 k miles. Missed the 16k mark by a few.. :?

That's easy for you to say, since you know what you're talking about The rest of us just gotta make this shit up.

If you have the brake light option on your top rack, you either have to remove the electrical socket on the rack or punch out a knock-out in the side case so it will latch into place. Then you have a hole in you side case. Removing the bake light contact connector is pretty quick but you still have to do it. At least that's the way mine works.

FYI I changed my plugs awhile back and noticed that my stock 2002 was running the Iridium NGK IMR9C-9H (mine was built in July,2001) Their site specifies the IMR9A-9H for 2001-2002 bikes Called them, the IMR9A-9H is being discontinued. Basically the same plug. the Pt is a slightly different shape. The 9C is suppose to wear better. db

+3 and heated Grips dualstar elements and a throttle lock

I changed mine to Galfer Blacks awhile back. Rear no problem. Fronts the pin didn't fit through the hole in the pad. I called them (cycle brakes) to see if they sent the wrong pads for the front and they said I had the right ones. WTF, why don't they fit I ask. We'll call Galfer and ask them. Galfer response "well the stamping tool changes over time so the hole gets smaller as it gets older". What kind of quality control do you have I ask. "We are extremely quality conscience, all you have to do is mill out the hole a little larger and they will fit fine." :shock: Well they were right, but come on. Said they would send another set for my troubles. Never got them. FYI

Thanks for the write up Jeff. I bought the portable heat troller. Maybe next winter I'll splurge, purchase and install the premanate heat troller for the Bird. Thanx Dan

Thanks for the ideas. I think I'll try the loom/tube (Jason) version for now. Maybe go for the tank bra in the future. Thanks for the photos Matey Cheers Dan BTW it was 39 degrees this morning for the commute so I could turn it up a bit. The heated collar is sweet!

I have a 2002, stock powertrain wise and I get between 27-35 mpg depending on how I twist the loud handle. Flashing reserve light after about 5 gallons used. Usually @ 150-175 miles. db

Hey all,,, I just purchased a Gerbings electric jacket liner with the portable heat controller. I went to Gerbings as I only live 75 miles away.I got the kind of controller that clips to your jacket you can move it from bike to bike. The nice folks there gave me an extra battery harness for my dual-sport. I hooked up one of the battery harnesses in their parking lot and rode away. I have the battery lead coming out from the front-left side of the seat by the fuel tank. It basically runs up my crotch (ouch) :shock: to the jacket connection. I'm worried about it scratching the tank (to hell with my balls). How do any of you have you electric gear hooked up? Pictures would be great.... The heated gear sure is nice, I felt like pissing in my leathers when I cranked up the heat.

I was wondering why so much trouble to remove a little plastic plug. That explains it.

I'm confused, ( my normal state) are you talking about removing the plastic plug that covers the brake pad pin? db

I'd be surprised if any bike doesn't feel the wake/wash of a semi. Two 40-ft trailers at 60mph move about 1/2 million cubic feet of air per second. If you have ever ridden a bicycle on the side of the road when a semi goes by then you know there is a hell of a lot turbulence. If you tires have the right pressure and your wheels aren't falling off, then you are OK. Drop back or pass-em.

Yeah, if the Road hold's up well, more then 5.5K miles, then I'll put a Pilot Power on the front and another Road on the rear, next swap.

Have you run a Pilot Road? If so how did you do with that? The 57 always felt greasy to me. I swaped it out right away for a Pilot Sport. After a few of those(<4K miles) I'm trying a Pilot Road on the rear. Still running a Sport on the front. So far the Road is holding up pretty well. Chose that as I'm doing more long distance runs this summer. Leave tomorrow for OR,ID,MT,ID,WA loop. dan

Are you bleeding it with a pump, or are you doing it the old fashion way. Final bleed should be the old fashion way, even with speed bleeders. Front brake should be the easiest to bleed. Pump level until you get resistance, then just barely crack the bleeder and before the lever bottoms out close the bleeder. Pump it up till the lever stops and do it again. I bled mine until they were working and safe to ride but more squish than I wanted. Then rode it 1/2 hour, bled it again. Did this 2x and put new pads in and there is less than 1" lever movement.

Thanks for the offer. I just spoke to John at Spiegler and he is sending out the double banjo bolt and bleeder today. Bummer, means I won't be able to ride till Thursday or Friday. Summer could be over by then here in Seattle. Dan

Is there suppose to be a longer bolt for two banjo's that are stacked on the rear master cylinder? I don't have one. Thanx Dan Did fork springs, rear shock, had my tires balanced, new spark plugs and installed clutch and SS brake lines today. Line install went OK but line #1 is about 2 inches too long and #2 is about 4" too long. Had to loop them around. Need another M8x1.25 bleeder and I'll be done. Possible a longer two banjo bolt. Busy day.

Just finished getting the new shock installed. Strap wrench and a hernia, I got it rotated 15 degrees or so. Backed the preload out all the way and lossened the banjo to get the angle right. No juice came out so all is good. I was amazed to get Klaus on the phone on a Saturday morning. I sent him a photo and he said I was the lucky one to be the one guy who has a messed up one. He validated that I could spin the preload section on the shaft. Or send it back and in two weeks I would have it. Not an option. So on to the fork springs and spark plug change. All is good.... Sun will be out tomorrow. Get some test miles in. Thanks for the shoulder Scot.. :wink:

Ok after thinking about it in the daylight. I believe that the body the preload attaches to, is only connected to the shaft by O rings. I think I can rotate it by putting the end in a vise and rotate it with a strap wrench. Will have quite a bit of resistance on it from the spring. The banjo needs to be moved some as well, but if I back the preload all the way out, it should'nt have any pressure on it and I can rotate it as well without loosing any fluid. I let ya know if I screw the pooch, or if I'm test riding today. Klaus must have been asleep when he lined this one up. I just love having these conversations with myself...

How do I rotate the preload adjuster arm on my shock to a different angle in relation to the bolt holes. Right now the preload comes off at angle that puts it into the coolant overflow tank. I'd like to have the fitting angle more to the rear of the bike. How do I twist it? Thanx

I just called Dynamohumm and they said NWS can't work with the US anymore. Some financial issues. Said that I'd have to get a mate in the UK to pick one up and ship it across the pond. Street fighters by design told me the same thing. Street fighters said a group buy of 12 total, plastic and carbon combined, would get us Pyramid huggers for $130 plastic, $175 carbon plus $10 shipping anywhere in the US. About a four week lead time, from time of order. List $155 and $210. I guess a Pyramid hugger may be in my future. Anyone interested? http://www.streetfightersbydesign.com/stre...fighterhome.htm

Thanx Bruce, Joe. Carbon fiber sure looks sweeeet!!!! Is carbon fiber a good choice for a hugger? Are they more prone to chip then plastic?