Dano

There was a group buy last year from Speigler. This post has some info you can search. I have forgoten the cost http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=Speigler Gary at University Motors did the group buy that Warchild setup. If I were to do it again I would just do the three on the front and the clutch for symmetry. IIRC there are 10 with the clutch if you do all. Its not a real hard install but it does take a lot of time to get all of them layed out nicely. I took the whole weekend to pull everything and lay out the new ones. You might want to put speed bleeders in while you are at it. Do some more Speigler searches, there is a lot of info and photos of various installs.

Is it set in place with a washer and screw? What the weather like in your part of Alaska?

The Michelin site says the Roads have better comfort. What does that mean? Softer sidewall? Not surprised to see they say Powers gip better dry, same wet, with less durability then the Roads. They also say the Powers are more expensive. SWMOTOTIRES sell the Powers for $2 less a set. I guess if you don't mind @ 20% less mileage the Powers are a better choice wet or dry. (so why did I just buy a set of Roads).

I've been running Power up front and Road in the rear. 7+K miles on the rear and it's about change time. Front may have 2k left. I just ordered a set of Roads front and rear this time as I lost the front wheel on a wet tar-snake awhile back and have been blaming it on the Pilot Power. (couldn't have been that I was speeding, leaned over and raining). Which is a better wet tire Power or Road? Michelin site gives both a 5 rating, as excellent. Is one still better then the other wet??

How many miles on your bike? Is it the original chain? (you can tell if all the rivets look the same then it's the factory chain). I just replaced my stock chain at 22K miles. The rear sprocket was fine. The front had slight wear so I replaced it. Wow that looks like shit..

I've had the headshakes for awhile now. I have been playing with my tire changing equipment I got a few weeks back. I replaced my completly worn out Front Michelin Sport with a less used one and the head shake went away. Then I put a new Pilot Road on the back and the head shake was back. Last night I put a new Pilot Power on the front. Head shake gone again. Tires must be a part of the problem.. I have yet to do tapered bearings. Maybe this winter. I have a road trip next week so the Givi's will go on. Head shake will probably be back again.

I was told once to switch to synthetic after the first two dyno oil changes on a New bike. I did at 6k miles. I was running Mobil red cap 15-50. Mobil remarketed the Red to Gold cap, extended life and now charges twice as much for it. I have now run out of the red cap and drove to four different stores trying to get Shell Rotella synthetic. I gave up and put $8 qt Amsoil in it. Bottom line if you change it every 3K miles any dyno or syn will work fine. Some say shifting is better with a synthetic weighted at the heavy end,, 15-50 etc.. The 10-40 Amsoil I put in Friday, ran 425 miles Saturday, didn't seem noticeably different then the Mobil 15-50 I was running. It was only 55 degrees Saturday, so I'll could tell ya more when it warms up some around here.

Yeah what he said. Methylene Chloride is some bad shit. Most paint strippers contain Methylene Chloride as the main ingredient. From OSHA: Employees exposed to methylene chloride are at increased risk of developing cancer, adverse effects on the heart, central nervous system and liver, and skin or eye irritation. Exposure may occur through inhalation, by absorption through the skin, or through contact with the skin. Methylene chloride is a solvent which is used in many different types of work activities, such as paint stripping, polyurethane foam manufacturing, cleaning, and degreasing. Don't breath the fumes! If you work with it in a closed garage use a respirator. Can you tell, I'm a safety officer for our company....

I got my Pyramid Carbon Fiber here. Fit perfect, bolt right on. It's the first time any thing like that has ever happened to me. http://www.revsperformance.com/pyramid/pyramid_huggers.htm

The shock worked great. Even if my preload spewed it's entire volume it would still be rideable. I realize that things under pressure can leak. What I was surprised at was the lack of interest from Wilber’s N.J. to make it right. I'm sure when I get it back it will last a long time. Don't worry Dale you're still da man.......... Loving the new levers, and they haven't leaked one bit...

Talked to Steve at Wilber's today regarding the leak on my pre-load line. After he told me it was not possible, he/we agreed to send it back to fix the "not a problem that a few drops of fluid is leaking out." problem. Got quotes from different shippers. Gonna sent a return label along so they don't screw me on shipping. About $20 round trip. 3-5 days each way, probably a week or two turn around. I'm not planning on getting the shock back till mid April. (for sure by TBME). I'll pull it this weekend, put stocker back on and send it out Monday. Who would have thought such a well built item would leak?

Shit the local stealer near me wanted about $400 to look and adjust as needed. No price for just a measurement. Pay for it all whether it needs an adjustment or not. :icon_doh: Tim; someone stole your cams....

Here is another option http://www.sprocketcenter.com/detail.aspx?ID=297

Ruhi: Have you sent it back yet?

Yeah Dano, any update! Sorry, there were two shock threads going on. I posted this the other day I have the 640 with preload adjuster. I called Klaus just to let him know I noticed a small leak on the pre-load line and was going to try to tighten it up. As far as I could tell it wasn't at the banjo fitting but at the 11mm nut fittings on each end. He said the banjo fittings are a crush once type seal and not to mess with that one. Snugged em up about 1/8 turn on each end. They weren't tight. Quick ride yesterday, so far so good. However I now have a slight corkscrew twist in the preload line. As each end tightened it put a twist in the line. No big deal, it just doesn't lay-out quite as nice as before. Klaus did ask if the bike/shock was stored in a heated garage as a shock that freezes could leak. WTF.... I guess I need to move south a few degrees db Today udate: Saturday. The fitting at the shock looks OK, the fitting on the adjuster knob still had a little fluid around it. It may just be residual from underneath the heat-shrink tubing Klaus put over the fitting. I wipped it down again and cranked up the pressure (add more preload). Next ride I will check it again, and again. Won't trust it for awhile even if it stays dry.

Ya know sometimes I am kinda slow... As well as not being observant, I don't listen very well either. My wife is always telling me I don't listen to her...... or something like that...

Nice photo! At first glance I thought dang this guy is thorough. Thought you pulled the motor to check the valves..

Hey Lori's Husband.... You got slip ons now?

I get 27-30 mpg when I'm on it, canyon running. Best ever was 38 when I was slabbing it at a constant 70mph. How do you get 50mph? Do you have stock gearing? Are you sure it's a Blackbird? Mines also a 2002 and I weigh #195 For the original question, I pulled the plugs at 16K miles and they looked great. As Redbird said, I replaced em since they were already out.

I have the 640 with preload adjuster. I called Klaus just to let him know I noticed a small leak on the pre-load line and was going to try to tighten it up. As far as I could tell it wasn't at the banjo fitting but at the 11mm nut fittings on each end. He said the banjo fittings are a crush once type seal and not to mess with that one. Snugged em up about 1/8 turn on each end. They weren't tight. Quick ride yesterday, so far so good. However I now have a slight corkscrew twist in the preload line. As each end is tightened it put a twist in the line. No big deal, it just doesn't lay-out quite as nice as before. Klaus did ask if the bike/shock was stored in a heated garage as a shock that freezes could leak. WTF.... I guess I need to move south a few degrees db

I finally got out for a romp yesterday as the sun was out this weekend in Seattle. Pre-load folks, FYI While doing a post ride inspection, ran my fingers along the preload line on my Wilbers and it came away with fluid on it. Both ends at the fittings are weeping. Gonna wrench them tonight to see if I can snug em up a bit. If not, I guess I'll call Klaus. db

and plenty of spare shock fluid. .. . I got out for a romp yesterday as the sun was finally out this weekend in Seattle. While doing a post ride inspection, ran my fingers along the preload line on my Wilbers and it came away with fluid on it. Both ends at the fitting are weeping. Gonna wrench them tonight to see if I can snug em up a bit. If not, I guess I'll call Klaus. db

Excellent! Ride/feel any different? Of course you took detailed photos of the process to post at a later time. Did ya use the punch on the stem nut too? db

Barry it'a a dance you play between the left and the right. You are using a wrench on the adjusters, correct ? Axle just loose enough that you can make the wheel move but not so lose that you have a gap between the spacer and the swingarm. As long as the adjusters aren't frozen up, you should be able to walk the axle straight and have both at the same marks. Loosen the axle and chain adjusters. Push wheel forward then pull back. Snug up the adjusters. Line them both up, chain loose and then just walk them both back a little at a time keeping the axle straight. You may end up to loose or too tight, just keeping making small 1/16 turns or less until you have it straight and the chain at the right tension. To loose is better then to tight. i.e. 1 3/8" slack is better then 1" You should be able to get them within a pencil line width of each other in relation to the marks. You're probably just walking it too much at a time.

I've got 22K on my stock chain and it is only 1/2 way through the adjusters. However I clean it and lube it about every 500 miles. What kind of life should I expect. I know it depends on how happy you are with the loud handle and the care given to the chain. It doesn't have any stiff links ( no comments please) and the stock sprockets appear to be in good shape. It's going on three plus years. As long as it adjusts OK and the links and sprockets are good should I just keep doing what I'm doing? db