Dano

A lift like this.. I just pulled the cams and took the stock shim numbers. Are you suppose to mic all the shims and not just go off the etched numbers on the shim ?

One of these day? You're quicker than I am! I'm still futsin around measuring twice cut once.. Only one, that's not bad. I had a quote once from I90 Honda, I think it was $550 whether the have to change shims or not. I bet in you case they would say it's good and just button it up. That's why I wanted to do it my self. How far did you strip your bird down. I followed the manual and my bird is basically naked up front. db

Since I have it apart I'm gonna do it. With only putting 5-7K mile per season I won't have to look at it again for 4 years... I'm no mechanic but if .009" is mid spec, and anything below .008" is out of spec and I have one at .006" that seems pretty tight to me..

Thanx, I have to travel this Wednesday, thru the weekend. I hope to have the cams out before wednesday but the wife has me redoing the bathroom too. At least I got the toilet back in today. I'll let ya know once I have it sorted out. Dan

Thanx.. Got the manual. I guess the good news is I didn't take it apart for nothing So go with .0095/.010" on exhaust and .0065/.007 on intakes? At least I'll be good to go for quite a while once I get it buttoned up. So who has the shim kit? Or does it exist anymore?

Decided to do my, get ready for summer maintenance today. Radiator flush, new CCT, new plugs, air cleaner, new brake pads, bleed clutch and brakes. Checking valve clearances for the first time. Guess I should have checked them earlier.. At 34,000 miles 2002 XX. Only 5 of sixteen in spec ! 1 dead on , 4 close All the rest tight.. Valve_shim_chart_1.ppt

Got em off a nice chap on the VFR board. So how do you delete a post?

Bump... Thanx for the PM reply...

BTTT PM sent

If you are running a radar detector many brands will display voltage, Get into the program modes. I run my passport in the voltage mode. It auto switches to radar mode when a signal is dectcted then goes back to voltage.

Yes, but you need a stop for the centerstand. Start to read here,,, and do some searches http://www.cbr1100xx.org/forums/index.php?...enterstand+stop

Thanks for the photos and clip tip Joe. Without knowing to push in and down on left side I would have been much more distressed. The manual says to unhook bulb retainer real helpful when you really can't see n there to deduce how it's hooked. I did remove the rightside upper cowl cover. Made it much easier to do it for my first time.

5 years on my original battery. I just bought a new one cause I hate to fix stuff when it's not convenient. Damn Hondas having to replace stuff every 5 years.. :0 Had my first bulb go out today. Lo beam headlight. 5 years old too...

I went to a suspension seminar a couple months ago and the local Michelin rep was there. Covers the shops and tracks in WA and Oregon. Just to to add to the confusion. New michelin tires should not have a weight dot indicator acording to the rep. If there is a dot ignore it. My last few sets of powers and roads have had no dots. He said that the manufacturing technology is such now that Michelin no longers puts a dot on the tire. The build up and molding is so controlled they don't bother with balancing finished tires and marking the light spot. The old dot (white , blue or red) was suppose to be aligned with the valve stem, as that is typically the heavy spot on the rim. The barcode has nothing to do with weight.

Got my stock replacement for something like $87 delivered to my door. If you can wait a week that's my vote. http://www.tristatebattery.com/index.php?location=1

Thanks, Joe, Pete. I was just kind a surprised to see a spec of plus/minus .001" My manual never mentions head gasket, just head packing material. I'll go to the microfiche and check part number. Does the gasket come out in one piece? Or does it usually have to be replaced? i...

So I'm still getting around to doing a valve clearance inspection on my 2002 . Getting a few things together to do while I’m at it. New plugs, New air cleaner, Still have to get "cylinder head packing" as the manual says. I assume that's the cover gasket. Still have to pick up some PremaTex to help stick it in place as some have suggested. Two questions: 1. Regular flat ½”x3” feeler gauge set OK ? 2. I’ve searched other valve posts on the board and many state after checking their “valve clearance was well within spec.” What does that mean? Intake is suppose to be .006” plus/minus .001” Exhaust .009” +-.001” What kind of gauges are you guys using that can measure well within .001” ? Do you mean it's right on or within a half of right on? Not sure how I could measure better then .0005" For example if you measured the exhaust at .01" would you leave it? (OK 4 questions.) Thanx

Thanx EBC HH it is, Since I ride like a pussy anyway I'll break 100K mile before I need to replace the rotors.

EBC HH I know are great but do they wear out rotors at an excelerated rate?

Need new pads. Have Galfer Black, thinking about the blue, Suppose to be inbetween the black and green. Anyone using them. I need something that works wet.

I hadn't mentioned it cause I type slow, but the main reason I was changing the fluids was because of a slight stick-tion(sp) I was feeling. Just a little uneasyness that something wasn't quite right. After cleaning and refilling the Sticktion apperas to be gone. Maybe a bushing.. GP suspensions is having a suspension class next week in the area. They are the ones that had the group buy for the Fork rebuild. Maybe it would be a good time to bring my forks to the class and have them go through them. Save on shipping.

Thanks for the replys. You can drain them from the bottom once the wheel is removed. However I would recommend to remove them from the bike. Venus.. Most of the effort is removing the wheel anyway. I tied to remove the allen bolt from the leg bottom after I had them off the bike. I only had a regular allen wrench and could not get them loose with an average effort. Didn't want to Fubar the hexhead cause I really needed a long socket head allen wrench (had a short one, but not long enought to get up through the leg bottom). They were tight. I really wanted to pull the dampers out and clean everything, maybe next time. It's also easier to pump the dampers and refill to the right level when they are off the bike. Next items, new barke pads and valve clearance check. Oh yeah, my tire are cupped...

Rainy morning here in the PNW so I decided to change my fork oil. Maybe 15Kmiles since I did the Wilbers fork spring and rear shock install. The left leg has that greenish 2 stroke oil look and the right looks pretty clean. Heat/Moisture what gives? Why would they be different? Little drips at top, right leg, left at bottom. Ratio right is full of the dirty left leg.

What he said. For what it's worth I got 24K miles out of my last chain, but it was definetly toast. If you snug the adjuster as mentioned and you still have to keep tighting it up, time for a new chain. Great photo Randy..

My 2002 has the newer one with the cooling fins/heatsinks. At 30,000 miles still going strong. I only run heated grips and a Gerbings jacket once in awhile.