kimbrian01 Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Need help. Have done everything I can think of to correct problem. The rear brake drags for about 2 seconds after the rear pedal is released then spins free. If I depress and release the rear brake pedal, wait 2 seconds, then the wheel spins like it should. The wheel should spin freely immediately after releasing the pedal. I have two 2003 black birds. After rebuilding the rear caliper and master cylinder and bleeding the whole system still had the problem. Then began taking parts from the second black bird which all the parts worked perfectly on. I swapped the rear brake caliper and mount, hose, rear master. Still have the problem. Then I swapped time delay valve and secondary rear master cylinder and the pcv. Still have the problem (Yes, I did the bleeding each time with a vacuum bleeder). If any one has any ideas, please post. I am a Daytona Beach AMI graduate and completely stumped at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Byrdman Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Inside the caliper, there's a bracket made of spring steel. This bracket applies constant pressure to the pads and I believe it's there to keep the pads from rattling. That might be your culprit? Maybe it's applying too much pressure? Just a thought........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northman Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Is the rear pedal pivot binding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimbrian01 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 Inside the caliper, there's a bracket made of spring steel. This bracket applies constant pressure to the pads and I believe it's there to keep the pads from rattling. That might be your culprit? Maybe it's applying too much pressure? Just a thought........ Thanks, but not the problem. Had swapped the caliper from the bike working perfectly fine to the one that's not. Still have the problem. Is the rear pedal pivot binding? Thanks, but did check that. It seems to be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Nothing to add, but, with as much as you have done, I would think that isolating different areas from each other, is all the diagnostics options that are left. Some thing that might be doing it, is pad pens notched. How are you testing the brake delay.. 1) bench or on center stand 2) riding Another thing that came to mind was a cracked rear caliper or bolts not tight enough. Ok, after reading you post, you have covered those. Except how your getting the results. , and isolating different systems. I had a similar problem with a bent master push rod. But, doubt you changed the hard lines from the front, or repaired the front master and pcv that send to the back. Maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcskisfast Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 I had problems with my rear brakes dragging. It was so bad it turned the rear rotor blue. It was still under warrenty and the dealer said it was the master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimbrian01 Posted October 7, 2009 Author Share Posted October 7, 2009 Nothing to add, but, with as much as you have done, I would think that isolating different areas from each other, is all the diagnostics options that are left. Some thing that might be doing it, is pad pens notched. How are you testing the brake delay.. 1) bench or on center stand 2) riding Another thing that came to mind was a cracked rear caliper or bolts not tight enough. Ok, after reading you post, you have covered those. Except how your getting the results. , and isolating different systems. I had a similar problem with a bent master push rod. But, doubt you changed the hard lines from the front, or repaired the front master and pcv that send to the back. Maybe. Checked pad pens which seem to be fine. Working/testing bike on center stand on lift. I unhooked the line going from rear master cyl to front of bike. Used the master cyl with just the rear caliper and wheel spins free. When I activate only the secondary master cyl, the rear spins free. So when the whole system is hooked back together the wheel drags. This leads me to believe there is a problem with the time delay valve. I purchased a used delay valve and put it on. Same problem. Then took the delay valve off other bike and put on this one. Same problem. My next step is to get the other bike back together to be sure it is still working properly. I use a vacuum bleeder along with the conventional bleeding method as instructed in the maintenance manual. I've replaced the rubber hoses but have not yet addressed the hard lines. By the way, both bikes were working fine and no previous issues. One bike is mine, one is my wife's. We can't pin point the start of the issue. Changed the tire (yes, did inspect everything w/the wheel to be sure that wasn't the problem) then rode about 700 more miles over 3 days in serious curvy roads using the back and front brakes fairly hard. Then got home on the straight roads and rode about 100 miles. When oiling the chain, could hear metal on metal. Discovered that the brake pads had been worn to the metal. I assume it was the last day that we rode the 100 miles that the problem started but cannot be sure. Thanks for your input. Any more ideas are welcome. In the next couple of days, I hope to get more chances to work on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrxxquad Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Might be a problem with the front master plunger on the fork being too far in and covering the relief hole. Could be adjustment or pivot free rotation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skull Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 I'm currently wrestling with dragging rear brake pads on my ZXXX (XX rear master cylinder, ZX rear caliper). My next step is rebuild kits for both, and see where that leaves me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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