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I've had the DDM low beam 55w kit in for about three years now, no problems. I opted for the 4500k kit and have no issues but I wonder what the 3000k bulb would look like? When I talked to DDM then they told me that when the bulbs get old they tend to fade to the higher end of the Kelvin scale so a 3000k natural light bulb would slowly fade toward a 4500k white light.

I opted to go the heavy wiring/ relay install and have had no issues but whoever said " no problem- it' s a 30 minute install" is full of crap! Probably took in excess of three hours but that included the relay harness and securely mounting the ballasts with double sided tape and foam tape so they don't bounce around AND wiring in a separate bulb socket for the DDM kit so that if I'm on the road and a bulb fails I can use the original socket for a halogen bulb and keep going.

I had the high beam as well as the low beam but ended up taking the high beam out. I found that when driving at night and I saw a car coming around the corner I'd switch to low beam and back to high beam when the car had passed. Problem was that the light takes several seconds to come on so the temporarily I had NO lights! A couple of interesting moments resulted in me switching back to a halogen high beam and having a spare 55w system downstairs.


HID low/Halogen hi is a good compromise, consider putting the Halogens on a relay so they are getting real 12v. There are some bulb options for the hi beam that will give you some extra light as well.

As for low beams, if you want to get into instant-on xenon high beams, check out bi-xenon projectors from theretrofitsource.com. Great folks, easy to work with, well-designed and built products. Beautiful cutoffs and instant-on hi beam. You'll have to do some crafting for the projectors to fit into most headlight housings, or buy a housing made for projectors.

I currently have low beam projectors on my pickup, and halogens for the high beams. I think I'll do bi-xenon units in the low beam holes and move the xenon bulbs to the hi beam holes - and put them on an auxiliary switch. It will throw a lot of light away (upwards), and it would only be good for longer duration use, but it should add both some throw and spill to the projector high beam also. It's a $300 project that I haven't had the $$ or time for, but maybe this spring.

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anything other than stock oem bulbs are illegal to use technically. Silverstars aren't designed for our reflective housings, nor are HID's. Same thing I mentioned to the inspection station

no matter what you put in there be oem, silverstars, hid, led, projectors has to be aimed correctly for it to be effective for you to see, and not blind others.

I am running DDM 35W 4500 or 4600 bulbs. hi and low. Actually spent the time to measure and aim my headlight before and after the install. Had them for 2 yrs and no issues, in day or night riding. Reason I changed, the stock bulbs were 10yrs old and orangy colored for dark morning commutes, and HID was 5 or 6 bucks more than silverstar ultras and would last 5 times longer.

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  • 1 month later...

Problem was that the light takes several seconds to come on so the temporarily I had NO lights! A couple of interesting moments resulted in me switching back to a halogen high beam and having a spare 55w system downstairs.

Was this on the XX ?

Because if it was... I would say something is wrong. When I turn my High beam on... my Low beam stays on. (99XX)

Also, it only takes about 5 seconds to re-fire the bulb, if you turn it off for 20-30 seconds, to let said on coming car go by.

I LOVE my dual HID's. Riding across Texas last year with Stan, pitch Dark out, No Moon, out in the middle of nowhere, 2 Bikes with 55W HID's, side by side.... was AWESOME.


All the previous statemnts cliaming less is more... are B.S... and aren't worth the time to dispute. They fall into the catigory of "ignorance is bliss".

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