Big-V316 Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 My bike is still having electrical problems. We thought we had it fixed when we took care of the loom. But it still just dies when your riding, no particular rpm, just dies. The one thing I noticed however is that when you are at a steady rpm and work the horn the bike will try to stall. Does anyone have an idea of what would make it do that? And also if that has anything to do with it cutting out for no reason? The bike is a 99 with FI. Thanks Big-V316 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiXXation Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 It still sounds like you are either pulling current through a high-resistance connection in the wiring so that voltage is being drawn down to the ignition/ECU, or you are floating the voltage up on a bad ground that is common to the ignition/ECU, when you hit the horn. I'm just guessing ignition/ECU, if it stalls immediately when you hit the horn, but it could be the fuel pump losing voltage since it is FI (but I would think that would be a little more of a delay in the stalling). Any other symptoms like trip meter or clock reset? You would have to work with the wiring diagram, checking voltages under load, find what critical component is losing voltage, and work backwards from there. Sounds tough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Sorry I can't be much help here but I do recommend you at least posting a link to your other thread so others can read what you have done so far and what hasn't been done. Otherwise I'll bet you get alot of the same responces... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-V316 Posted April 7, 2006 Author Share Posted April 7, 2006 My bike is still having electrical problems. We thought we had it fixed when we took care of the loom. But it still just dies when your riding, no particular rpm, just dies. The one thing I noticed however is that when you are at a steady rpm and work the horn the bike will try to stall. Does anyone have an idea of what would make it do that? And also if that has anything to do with it cutting out for no reason? The bike is a 99 with FI. Thanks Big-V316 The other odd thing is when it does stall if you flip the kill switch on and off it starts up. Big-V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 I'd look for an intermittent (floating) ground short, and I'd start with the "kill switch"... 'Sounds to me like a possible corrosion issue in that area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-V316 Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 I'd look for an intermittent (floating) ground short, and I'd start with the "kill switch"... 'Sounds to me like a possible corrosion issue in that area. I was just outside working on it when I realized that I had no brake light when I pulled the front brake. I never noticed since I always use both breaks when I stop. I tried a volt meter on the break light switch wires and no current came through. Is there a way to test the switch box that the break light wire go into? Also is there a way to check the kill switch. Thanks Big-V316 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiXXation Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 If you look at the wiring diagram, which may eventually be obtained here (well, now, that's different :icon_shifty: ): Garage Sticky. you will see that all the functions you have found involved in the trouble apparently all use the same fuse "C", and go to the same common ground bus. If you don't/can't look at the wiring diagram, none of this will make sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-V316 Posted April 8, 2006 Author Share Posted April 8, 2006 If you look at the wiring diagram, which may eventually be obtained here (well, now, that's different :icon_shifty: ): Garage Sticky. you will see that all the functions you have found involved in the trouble apparently all use the same fuse "C", and go to the same common ground bus. If you don't/can't look at the wiring diagram, none of this will make sense. I thought I checked all of the fuses but I will check again in the morning. I looked over the wiring diagram but I can't tell if that block uses a common ground or a seperate ground to the frame. Thanks Big-V316 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiXXation Posted April 8, 2006 Share Posted April 8, 2006 If you can relate that "C" fuse to your bike, then you can start there to check voltage when you hit the horn, for instance, to see if it stays up or drops out. You would then need to find one of the ground points on that bus, and measure it to a good ground at the battery, to see if the ground plane voltage rises when you hit the horn (indicating a bad/coroded floating ground connection to the frame). There are, or were, others on this board who have actually troubleshot these kinds of problems and might be able to tell you just where the various connectors are physically located. Your first post on this problem, I think, indicated you have already done some wiring harness work on your bike. My 2003 (knock on wood) hasn't given me any trouble to have to get into it to that level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted April 10, 2006 Share Posted April 10, 2006 Please forgive me if this is couched in rather basic terms, but we have no way of assessing anyone's skill level when attempting to vicariously troubleshoot... Per pages 19-20 and 19-21 of the '99 manual... all you need is a continuity test light (12v)... Start your short search with the "kill switch". Remove the 2 phillips screws (underside of the housing) and open up the switch housing. Ground your test light - test it on the positive (+) battery terminal; if your bulb lights up, you're ready to proceed. Two wires go to/from the switch - black & white/black. With the key "ON", current should be coming in via the white/black wire. When the switch is "OFF" or "STOP" there should be no current in the black wire; switch to "ON or "RUN" and there should be current (both wires). Your grounded test light will confirm. If the current does not cross through the switch when "ON" or "RUN", you may assume a bad switch. To temporarily work-around it, bypass the switch with a jumper wire. Your ignition switch will function as normal and be the only way to shut down a running engine. If you have no current incoming via the white/black wire (key ON), check your fuses and start tracing the wire for a short. The complete wiring diagram is on page 20-1. We hope this is helpful. Disclaimer: This assumes a factory wiring harness without modification. Furthermore, manuals (even factory manuals) have been known to have mistakes, amendments, or oversights (i.e.; a wire color change in a mid-year model run)... the test protocols are nonetheless valid and based on logic. Take your time, do one thing at a time, and take notes as you go... it ain't brain surgery - it just seems so... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironmike Posted April 11, 2006 Share Posted April 11, 2006 Hey Big-V316... What's the status with your bike..? One of the unwritten norms around here is that if you ask for help & advice... well, you gotta let us know how it all turns out - our curiosity borders on the obsessive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiXXation Posted April 12, 2006 Share Posted April 12, 2006 Have you already checked and cleaned or bypassed the wiring harness connector talked about in this thread? 1999-2000 Loom Problems - The Fixes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-V316 Posted June 20, 2006 Author Share Posted June 20, 2006 Sorry for taking sooo long to post a reply. I have been dealing with some business problems and have been tied up. I did have the wiring loom fixed but that has not helped. I have noticed that it is taking longer for the bike to restart after it dies. It used to just take a few seconds during wich I would try everything from the kill switch to the battery cables and then it would start. The last time I had the bike out I put the battery charger on it the night before and with in about 5 miles it died and took 10 minutes to finaly start back up. I thought before that maybe the kill switch had something to do with it but now I am not so sure. There are so many things that could be bad I don't want to start replacing things just to find out that I am just wasting money. Thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beondwacko Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 I'd look for an intermittent (floating) ground short, and I'd start with the "kill switch"... 'Sounds to me like a possible corrosion issue in that area. I'd put $$$ on a bad ground. Don't forget to check for corosion where the clip on's mount to the fork tubes, and the tubes slip into the tripple trees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbrriderxx Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 +1 for bad ground...flipping the kill switch resets the circuit so if it starts up it shows you are losing too much current somewhere :icon_think: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetart Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 This sounds kinda like whated happened to me. My case is the the bike stalled under a blip of acceleration, but is fine if you left it alone on the side stand (defeats the point a bit) The regulator wasn't living up to its name, which also cooked the battery. I don't know what anyone elses opion is to this method, but have you tried another fully charged battery and disconnecting the reg/rectifier (don't ride with your headlights on!) and see if you still stall then. This is probably best done with a friend and a set of jump leads, just in case The ground option is probably the best bet, but this is something else to try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-V316 Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 Hi Guys Alright I did the loom fix and rode on Saturday. The FI light never came on but I hit the horn at around 35 MPH and the bike still wants to stall. I think I am going to check the battery and the charging system today. That about where I'm at. I have not had time to ride so I still can't say for sure if the loom fix worked. I'll keep you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 I didn't see this anywhere, so forgive me for coming to the party late. Have you had your battery load tested? What you're describing could well be a bad battery, or a battery in a system that has a big constant draw on it. You say it wants to stall when you hit the horn. Does the horn sound strong or weak? What happens when you put on the high beam or blinkers and taillight? Does it still want to stall if you keep the revs up? Does your instrument cluster work okay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-V316 Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 All right let me answer one question at a time. 1) I have the battery tested but I want to test it again. 2) The horn sounds weak if the revs are low. Thats when the bike wants to stall. If the revs are hi the horn sounds strong. 3) High beams - nothing changes 4) If the revs are high everything is fine 5) Guages are fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetart Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Have you got a friend who rides also. Can you borrow their battery to see how you get on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rockmeupto125 Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Sounds like you need to start from ground zero. Charge and load test the battery. Put it back in the bike and run the charging system tests. Only once you are sure THEY are healthy can you continue with other things. If its not the above, I'm inclined to think you have some bad switchgear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big-V316 Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 Bad switchgear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iceman_40 Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 Bad switchgear? Ya it could just be your horn switch if that's the only time it does it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.